The oven was on self-clean and shut down, display doesn't work and door is locked. The cooktop is still working. I read someone else's same issue posted and problem solvers thought it was the thermal circuit or sensor. Is the circuit the same thing as a sensor? Is this something we can replace ourselves? Is it on the back of the range or inside the oven? How do we unlock the door? Thanks
I've had the same problem and have had the thermo-protector switch replaced four times. After the last time I was so ********** I wrote to the CEO at Whirpool/Kitchen Aid in Benton Harbor, MI with my complaint. Today I received a call from an extremely nice lady in his office who said that they were sending me an updated kit for repair free of charge. The part number is 9759243. She offered that this was a known problem but was limited to just one production run - my luck!
If you are having this problem with your KGSA906PSS write to the CEO at Whirlpool!
If you are still under warranty, and have "lemon laws"... repaired three times in the warranty period for the same problem... they have to replace the stove. We all need to get Kitchenaid to start replacing these ranges over and over, maybe then they will address the issue. Clean, baby clean... you paid extra for a self clean oven, hold Kitchenaid accountable!
I've had the same problem and called KA over the weekend requesting part namber 9759243, they sent it free of charge with overnight shipping. My problem now is , how to I install it. The thermal stat looks different than the original one in the oven.
There is a design problem with certain model Whirlpool ranges where the thermal fuse blows during self-cleaning (auto-clean). This may be because of inadequate insulation, causing the outer panel to overheat. When the thermal fuse is replaced, the range will work, but it will blow the next time auto-clean is done. To safely work around the problem, the thermal fuse may be replaced with a thermostat, which will reset itself once the oven has partially cooled off. If the part number of the thermal fuse is 9759243, it will blow at 120 deg C (248 deg F). This can be replaced to a Selco Part# SES-L250 thermostat. The terminals are perpendicular (90 degress), so they have to be bent to 30 degrees for the wires to fit behind the back panel.
Selco part# SES-L250 specs:
Surface Mount
3/4 in. disc
120/240 VAC
25 A
SPDT
open on-rise (normally closed)
open (cut-out): 250 deg F
close (cut-in): 220 deg F
temperature differential: 40 deg F
Info: http://catalog.selcoproducts.com/item/3-4-disc-thermostats/surface-mount-automatic-reset-open-on-rise/pn-5113?&seo=110
Available: Selco distributors: http://www.selcoproducts.com/distributors.php
and online at
Allied Electronics http://www.alliedelec.com
If the Selco SES-L250 'surface mount' thermostat is not available, an 'airstream type' thermostat can be used with a few differences:
1) I recommend to replace it to a 240 or 230 deg F thermostat. The reason for the lower cut-out temperature is that an 'airstream mount' thermostat will not be flush with the back panel, as is the original 250 deg F 'surface mount' one, so it may cut-out at a higher (unsafe) temperature.
2) I recommend to add Heat-sink compound between the thermostat and the sheet metal. This is used for computer processors and is available at computer and electronic component stores.
3) An 'airstream type' thermostat is thicker than the original 'surface mount' one, so longer screws will have to be obtained. The sheet metal tabs on the thermostat will bend slightly when installing.
4) The terminals are perpendicular (90 degress), so they have to be bent to 30 degrees for the wires to fit behind the back panel.
Recommended 'airstream type' thermostats:
Supco L240
Info: http://www.supco.com/images/pdfs/2009%20HVAC%20Caralog/2009%20Catalog%20for%20Web2.pdf
Available: http://www.appliancefactoryparts.com/applianceshvac/supco/crossref/thermostats2.html
Selco SE-L240
Info: http://catalog.selcoproducts.com/item/3-4-disc-thermostats/ts-3-4-disc-se-series-airstream-mount-open-on-rise/pn-5096?&seo=110
White-Rodgers 3L01-230
Info: http://www.white-rodgers.com/wrdhom/pdfs/06_Cat_pages/Cat_06_pg0092.pdf
General Electric LS2-240
White-Rodgers 3L01-230
Available: eBay store: Store: Patriot-Supply
Would like to know if the oven gas is off when self-Clean killed panel as mine has done. I also has killed panel 3 other times where stop button stopped working.
Sorry, I was writing about an electric range, so I'm not sure how to answer your gas question.
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This has happened twice to me. The first time the company paid for the repair. Just this last week when it happened again (2 times tried to self clean; 2 times doesn't work) repairman tells me that KitchenAid now has a "kit" that they sell to fix the problem. Now that it has been repaired though I'm too afraid to try and self clean again.
Mine too has given the "lost communication" message many times. Yesterday was the first time the door locked itself, and I always get the F6 E4 error code too. The first code that comes up is 04 when I power the stove back up, and start over.
This stove had a "sensor" problem when I bought it used, and it seemed to check out fine when we tested it. The price used was really marked down, and I thought,"What a bargain". Now I'm not so sure. I hope KA has a "kit" to fix the problem. I'll call tomorrow.
I tried to use the self-clean mode today and my oven and display no longer work.
I've tried resetting breaker and un-plugging the unit but cannot get any positive results.
The top burner units work, but no display and the oven door is locked.
Any suggestions
During the self clean cycle the control panel shut off and door locked. Kitchenaid will not admit this is a problem and when I contacted them they suggested I reset my curcuit breaker. Knowing this would not solve the problem I still attempted. Of course my oven is still not working. Should I even attempt to fix it.
me too!
I put my range on self clean and now it is shut off; door is still locked and the stove top elements still work. How do I get it to turn back on?
We have a KitchenaidKGSA906PBL. Last week, I tried to use the self clean feature. In the middle of the cleaning, the control panel went blank and the door locked up. This is the fourth time that we have had to replace the control panel. Obviously the oven is a lemon. I'm assuming that when the oven heats up, it fries the circuits. The repairman told us that he gets quite a number of servic calls for our model. Luckily, I sensed the oven was a lemon in the first year of purchase and bought the extended warranty. If Kitchenaid refuses to stand behind their product, they don't deserve to be in business. My solution is to never again buy a Kitchenaid product. I will also tell my friends not to buy Kitchenaid. Eventually, they will be forced out of business.
I've had the same problem with the self-cleaning. If part #9159243 is ordered, is it a fuse within the display module?
Like others, after self-cleaning cycle display went blank and oven door stayed locked.
After starting the Self Cleaning Mode the Display went blank and the Oven Door stayed locked. The Burner Igniters still work on the Stove Top and I tried resetting the power to the unit but this did not fix the problem. I will try to get the updated kit for repair, part number 9759243 free of charge. Please let me know exactly where the part is located in the oven.
replaced thermal fuse and cant get it to turn off when i run the oven have another fuse but cannot locate it i replaced the one on the back just above the fan in the center?
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