Parts are available at the Traeger website at www.traegergrills.com. You need to contact them. It would be wise to have your model and serial number available.
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For the lid I just used a handle from an old lid. For the side handles I used some screen door handles that I had in my parts bin. CAUTION the will get hot.
As a Costco member you should receive notification of any recalls on products you've purchased under your membership. As you would know, recalls are very specific - even to the date of mfg. The SKU on each item at Costco carries this data so product issues can quickly be conveyed to their members.
If you haven't received any advise, then your specific Treager is very likely not on any recall list.
As you might imagine. If your Treager is blowing fuses, it has an electrical short somewhere. The tricky part is usually finding it. However, on the unit, it will likely be the hot rod. Replace it before the short causes other damage.
Hi, if you haven't already done so, I would recommend you remove the grate and heat plate to clean out the ash from the fire box. Accumulated ash will restrict airflow into the fire box preventing good combustion. While using genuine treager pellets and standard shut-down/cool-down cycle, I have to clean it out periodically.
I would strongly recommend you pull the control panel and inspect the fuse. Before tripping a breaker, your GFS outlet should trip, and/or blow the fuse.
If the unit is tripping circuits, then there is likely a short. Given the material draw from the hot rod, I would start with that. Putting a multi-meter on it to test voltage, should give you a basis to confirm with Treager if it's within spec. Sometimes it's simpler to replace the rod, but this can add up quickly if not the root issue.
If the auger won't turn because it's jammed, here's details direct from Treager
Elswise, I would check your electrical on the back of your control panel. There should be three sets of two-wire leads: (1) Purple/White=Hot Rod; (2) Orange/White=Induction Fan; and (3) Red/White=Auger. Obviously, check the Red/White leads for voltage and continuity.
You need to remove the "key assembly" before removing the handle. The key assembly is the lid, handle and diverter which all come out in one piece after taking the bolts out around the lid.
Once the assembly has been removed, you need to compress the lid down toward the diverter to allow the handle to move freely. At that point the handle pin, which connects the handle to the diverter may be removed. Note the position of the handle's pointer and the open slot on the diverter. When reassembling it is important that they are in the same position. If not careful the handle will be 180 degrees off.
Its a good idea to go ahead and change out the diverter o-rings and bearing on top of the lid (that the handle slides upon while turning) while you have it open.
For what it's worth, when the handle on my mother-in-law's crockpot broke, I went to Home Depot and bought a cheap wooden drawer knob (about $1 as I recall). I put a plastic washer between the knob and the glass and another under the screw head from the bottom (to prevent cracking the lid), tightened the screw and good as new.
Do you need the whole lid, or just the handle? If you need just the handle, go to www.marbeck.com--they have replacement handles that screw onto most crockpot lids.
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