SOURCE: starter rope pulled out and wont retract on
remove the starter cover and try to wind the starter rope manuly. the rope may have to be replaced if worn or broke..
SOURCE: Weedwacker won't start
Sounds like you will need to clean your carburetor.
Sometimes you can get by with priming it a few times, and letting it run a few times like that and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.
If the mower/weedeater is over a couple years old, then I also recommend that you buy and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.
When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, You will first seat the jet screws and count the number of turns it takes to seat the jets from their original position.
That way when you go to put the jets back in, you know how many turns they were in/out.
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SOURCE: I have a craftsman 32cc
Sounds as if the Carb needs to be cleaned out. Get yourself a can of non-chlorinated brake cleaner and spray the carb out really well. Then reinstall the carb. Also check any ports in the carb to make sure there isn't any debris blocking the flow of fuel. I would also suggest getting some Stabil Marine (blue) fuel stabilizer. The ethanol in gas destroys small engine carbs. Just mix this in with your gas tank the next time you fill up. How old is this fuel? The ethanol also absorbs water, so even while in the gas can it is obtaining moisture. The Stabil Marine formula helps lesson the effects of the ethanol.
SOURCE: Fuel does not reach carburetor
Hi twofoxes...
The fuel filter is located inside the fuel tank if you have one, but that may not be your whole problem. I will give you some extra info just incase it is not your fuel filter causing the problem.
The following info will help you thru the rebuilding of your carburetor just incase and some other things to check.
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Make sure you are getting spark at the spark plug, to do this:
Remove your spark plug and check to be sure you are getting fire at the spark plug.
You do this by grounding the plug on the head of the engine and pulling the crank rope, if you are getting spark then:
Sounds like you have dirt/debris in your caburetor jets,fuel passages or a diaphgram that is becoming non-flexible.
Check/Clean/Replace your Air Filter, a dirty air filter can make your engine run to rich with fuel.
NOTE: Before you disassemble the carburetor:
Mark each piece with a awl, or some kind of instrument that will make an alignment scratch before you disassemble the carburetor into separate pieces.
That way you will know which way it goes back together when you reassemble it.
Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or by using starting fluid and letting it run a few times like that, and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.
Be sure to check your fuel tank for water and dirt/debris, if there is water/debris then you need to clean your tank.
Check you fuel line condition after a while they will degrade and need replacment.
Check/Clean/Replace your fuel filter if you have one, normally they are located in the fuel tank of weedeaters.
When you remove your fuel lines from the carburetor be sure to make a drawing to how the lines are connected to the carburetor.
Normally the big line will be the line the fuel filter is connected to inside of the tank.The smaller of the two lines is the return to the fuel tank from the carburetor after it is pumped thru the carburetor by the primer bulb.
Make sure you are using fresh fuel...and oil mix if your using a two cycle mower or weedeater with the oil to the right mixture and not too much oil as it can cause hard starting.
If the weedeater is over a couple of years old, then I recommend that you buy and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.
The diaphgram may look good and flexible, but it can be deceiving and not act as a fuel pump as it should because it has become too hard.
When you clean your carburetor, I recommend that you use a laquer thinner type cleaner to clean and dissolve the laquer build-up in the float and needle jet passages.
Be sure to remove all plastic and rubber parts before using the laquer thinner because it can dissolve the plastic parts and render them unuseable.
Be sure to use COMPRESSED AIR to blow out all the fuel and air passages.The higher air pressure is needed to blow some of the trash/debris from the fuel or air passages.
Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages.
Keep in mind that the float (if you have one) for the carburetor must be level when you go to reassemble the carburetor or follow the instructions you get with the carburetor kit, or you could also ask the parts man that you get your kit from.
When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need to lightly seat the jet screws.
But before you lightly seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes to seat the jet screws from their original position.
Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper.
That way when you put the jets back in, you know to lightly seat them first and then turn them back out to their original position before you started.
Once you have your carburetor rebuilt that should solve your problem.
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SOURCE: craftsman weedwacker 32cc how to
It is threaded onto the end of the crankshaft (with regular R-Hand threads). I spray some PB Blaster solvent on it, let it soak. and the whack it on the inside "ears" with a flat blade chisel or a piece of small hard wood. I know...you have to lock up the engine so the crank won't move...and you can. Here is the entire process.
Remove the tube that holds the flex-drive shaft from the front of the motor cover. Remove the throttle cable from the carburetor. Mark and unplug any wires for the on/off switch if possible. Now if you have pulled the driveshaft tube out of the way, the clutch drum is up next. Inside it, screwed into the very end of the engine's crankshaft is a Torx #25 screw. Before you loosen it, ou will have to lock up the engine. Remove the spark plug. Pull on the starter until the piston is down, then insert a length of clean, soft rope into the engine. The engine will come up and compress the rope, thus locking it in place to allow clutch drum and clutch removal. Loosen the T-2015 screw inside the drum.. It probably won't come completely out...it is made this way. Next, remove the clutch. It is screwed onto a small threaded section of the crankshaft Removal is counterclockwise.. It will be pretty tight. To help, apply peneterating oil. Whack the ears of the clutch near the center with a dull flat-blade chisel and hammer unless there are bolts. then use wrench. It will turn counterclockwise for removal and there will probably be a removal direction arrow on it's face. After getting that off, remove the Torx screws holding the cover to the engine. The starter unit should be mounted inside as it mates with the bottom of the flywheel to start the motor. Remember to preload tension (5-7 turns) on the starter unit. Make sure the handle is installed. Jam the unit with a screwdriver or something so you can insert and tie off the new rope. Then remove jam device and let recoil pull your new rope into place. Reassemble and you are done. Disassembly requires Torx head drivers ranging from T-15 to T-25.
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