BREAKER AT THE FUSE BOX WAS TRIPPED. WHAT IS CAUSING THE WASHER AND DRYER TO TRIP THE BREAKER? I I have a Kenmore Laundry Center.I washed 1 load then started another wash load. The washer filled with water completed the wash cycle and did not spin. I cannot get the washer to start again by turning the dial. The dryer stopped working at this time also. It seems the washer and dryer stopped working at the same time.It seems there is no power to the unit. CHECKED THE BREAKER BOX. A FUSE WAS TRIPPED. WE RESET IT. POWER WAS RESTORED TO THE WASHER AND DRYER. WE STARTED THE WASHER AND DRYER BACK UP. WITHIN A COUPLE OF MINUTES THE HOUSE BREAKER AT THE FUSE BOX WAS TRIPPED AGAIN. WHAT IS CAUSING THE WASHER AND DRYER TO TRIP THE BREAKER? WE HAVE USED THIS UNIT FOR FOUR YEARS WITH NO PROBLEMS.

The washer tripped the breaker once and OR after the breaker was reset it ran additional loads with no problem then it tripped the breaker again.

Intermittent problems are always difficult to diagnose because the problem usually doesn't occur when you're making the checks.

If the washer ran additional loads the problem will not be an electrical short with one of the washer parts. If the lid switch had a short it wouldn't run additional loads.

if the additional loads used the same cycle as previously. A timer can have an internal short that might trip the breaker in heavy duty cycle but not the permanent press cycle.

If you have access to a clamp on amp meter, see the image below, then you can check the amp draw of the washer. The washer normally will draw about 10-15 amps at start up and about 5-8 amps while running. The house breaker for you washer should be rated at 20 amps.

If the washer is running and drawing less than 20 amps and the breaker trips then if can be a weak house breaker.

Mid cycle the washer is most likely draining or spinning and if the bearing or pump locks up then the washer may draw additional amps to try to start and trip the breaker.

The key to this problem is what the amp draw of the washer is when the house breaker trips.

To narrow this problem down, there are three places that could be causing the ( outlet) GFCI to trip, a malfunction in the washing machine, a problem with the downstream wiring (aka load side of the GFCI-other items connected on same circuit), or the GFCI outlet itself. If there isn't anything downstream, then plugging the washing machine into another GFCI outlet, or simply swapping out the outlet for a known good GFCI outlet, will identify if the outlet itself is faulty.
If the outlet trips when the washing machine isn't running and isn't even plugged in, then there's a fault in the wiring on the load side of the GFCI outlet.
If the issue is neither of the above, then running the washing machine and monitoring to see which step is occurring when the trip happens will isolate what part of the washing machine may be leaking current to a ground. It could be a certain water level, a motor being engaged, a transition step in the controller, etc
Beware some techs believe that most Washing machines or any other motor should not be on a GFCI! Should be a dedicated single receptacle. If there are other outlets on the washer GFCI, replace that GFCI with a single receptacle and put the GFCI on the next jump in order to protect other outlets.

Another item to check is ur lid switch which may have gotten moister inside and created a short_ or broken open and the rubber seal dried out over time, and the switch assembly will be exposed. water can splash onto the assembly, somehow causing the GFCI to trip. In any event, if you are having trouble with your washing machine stopping mid-cycle for any reason, test and  HYPERLINK "http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MFsvLiuTniU" replacing the lid switch is probably a worthwhile idea, as it is cheap and easy to replace.
By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!

Be sure there is power is coming from wall outlet and be sure breaker hasn't tripped. Also if there is a loose connection where cord was installed to unit, there may be a burnt wire.

Sounds like an electrical short somewhere in the washer. Needs to be checked out by qualified service tech.

the power is on but the start button does not start the machine

There is a thermal limit fuse on the rear of the machine.

Check it.


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Okay, here's the best I can do from this distance.

The combo unit is on a 30-amp, 220-volt circuit. One cord supplies both washer and dryer.

The breaker does not trip until the washer motor starts running simultaneous with the dryer drying.

My guess is that (if the combo unit is connected correclty to the one supply cord) the dryer motor runs off the 110 volt supplied by the red/white wires & the washer motor runs off the other 110 volt leg, black/white (could be vice-versa, but that's irrelevant).

The dryer heating element runs off the 220 volt supplied by the red/black wires.

There are two most likely causes (but not the only possibilities):

- The breaker is bad -- could just be oxidation on the breaker contacts in the bteaker box -- I havae seen this conditon -- small amounts of oxidation can cause the breaker to overheat and trip -- of course, the more current the load draws the hotter the breaker gets.

- One of the motors (washer or dryer) is beginnig to fail (windings beginning to short) and drawing more than rated current which is overloading the breaker.

Checking thes two theories requires some not-so-standard equipment, and some more-than-handyman expertise. And if neither of these theories pans out, the troubleshooting gets more complicated.

So, to address your original question, "Can I fix it myself, or should I hire someone?, I would say you should hire someone. This wirite-up may give them a head start.

Let me know if you have any questions.

Charlie

P.S.
A third possibility (only possible if this tripping condition ahs existed from the beginnig of the w/d installation) is that the power cord is connected to the unit such that both motors are powered by the same 110 volt leg. Not being there to assess this, I can't say how likely this is, but it's a long shot for sure.

dryer tub loose

check your pump ,,, sounds like you gotten something in it putting a strain on the motor to overload your breaker

With the symptoms you describe i would suspect a intermittent heater element fault as you are getting earth leakage current which is tripping the whole supply rather than a current overload which would just trip the socket circuit breaker. Get the heating element checked over first as this is the most likely cause.

if the machines are both on the same outlet i would attempt to run them on seperate outlets first to see if it improves. as time lapses breakers or gfi's can weaken and a continous amp draw esp. in the spin and the ignition stage at the same time which are the largest amp draw from either machine at any give time could be causing the issue. if this does not work you need a tech to look at it

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