Test your PSU power supply unit or replace it if your power
supply units fan is not working your PSU is faulty
http://pcsupport.about.com/od/toolsofthetrade/f/powersupplytest.htm
Testing and replacing the PC power supply
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hbNxhvm0czs
One bad lead can cause a computer to continue on a cycle of
restarting or to shutdown or fail to detect ,boot up a computer hard drive
WARNING Before you
start troubleshooting remember that you are dealing with electricity that can
KILL.
http://www.kitchentablecomputers.com/static.php
- rules
Only work inside the computer case when the power has been
switched off and disconnected. Never open the power source.
Some of the below steps
recommend removing physical parts within the computer.
While in the computer it is
highly recommend that you be aware of ESD and its potential hazards
Test all leads that attach to your hard drive power and data
cables IDE ,SATA
the leads from your
MOTHERBOARD TO YOUR HARD DRIVE
make sure they have a secure dust free connections and are not faulty or
just replace them they could be faulty
Make sure all leads that
are attached to your dvd \ cd floppy drives have secure connections and are not
faulty or just replace them they could be faulty.
Computers need power and
data to travel through every working device to continue its cycle and have an
end so any faulty leads will end up with a computer error.
Even something as small as
a faulty electrical or fan lead can cause you problems
Motherboard and a Hard Drive any leads between them will
fail before your motherboard or your hard drive if its a flat ribbon 40 pin
type IDE replace it this will be the first to fail.
Check all electrical power input and extensions make sure
they are securely seated even the cd/dvd floppy drives need to have current go
through make sure these drives are working
also check the Cmos battery and computer RAM modules make
sure they are securely seated with no dust built up or in the sockets on some
motherboards cmos batteries are soldered in.
Check
you CPU central processing unit make sure its securely seated and has thermal
paste it might be getting to hot the thermal paste will help disperse the heat
Thermal compound is a sticky paste that is placed
directly onto the CPU.
http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Thermal-Compound-Roundup-February-2012/1490
Allowing for a more direct heat transfer between
the CPU and HEAT SINK and preventing air gaps from forming between the CPU and
heat sink.
Another possible reason could be a memory dump you might be
running to many programs at the one time putting to much strain on the CPU
central processing unit.
If you can get your computer stable enough
scroll to bottom toolbar
bottom of screen right click select task manager
applications you will
see whats running if you see anything you dont need running select end now
also under processes see
what is ticking over again if you see something you do not need to be running
end now or you might uninstall that
program and some unnecessary programs
not having enough computer ram can cause memory dumps
If you are not sure if a module is right for your system use
the Crucial Memory
Advisor tool for a list of guaranteed compatible modules.
first you will need to select the manufacturer from a drop
down list then select your product line from a drop down list then select the
model then click find it will take you directly to compatible ram also you will
have an option to scan your system
you should always for a guarantee on any ram modules when
purchasing them or buy working pairs if possible.
You might have a virus or malware.
Download at least one of these of course it will depend on
your operating system.
http://www.majorgeeks.com/Microsoft_Security_Essentials_for_Windows_d6242.html
microsoft security essentials your operating system must be
registered
Win7/Vista/XP
64 bit
http://majorgeeks.com/downloadget.php?id=4281&file=1&evp=dbb3b0aebe6a6a4ff18089a6489a5e62
anti malware free edition Win XP/2003/Vista/Windows7
http://windows.microsoft.com/en-US/windows/products/security-essentials/product-information
malware protection
http://100-downloads.com/download.php?p=615
windows xp microsoft security essentials
http://100-downloads.com/download.php?p=614
windows 7 microsoft security essentials
Capacitors look like small metallic canisters and they are
found in many different computer components including computer monitors,
computer motherboards, video cards, power supplies and a variety of other
consumer products.
A bad capacitor can cause a variety of computer problems,
but if you can identify the faulty capacitor you may be able to replace it and
save your computer.
Capacitor
Capacitors, sometimes also called condensers, are used to
store energy in an electric field.
In the context of computing, capacitors are used to block
the direct current being circulated around the motherboard.
A typical capacitor should last up to 15 years, but some
computer manufacturers use substandard capacitors resulting in shorter
lifetimes.
Computer Problems
When a capacitor has gone bad on a computer you may
experience a large range of problems. The computer may have trouble booting up,
or it may shut down without notice after running for only a short period of
time.
The most common problems associated with faulty capacitors
are that they cause unexpected computer crashes and general reliability issues
ranging from read/write issues to distorted screen images.
Identifying a Bad Capacitor
To identify a bad capacitor you will need to open your
computer case and locate the capacitors on your motherboard.
A bad capacitor may exhibit swelling at the top or the base
of the capacitor or it may sit at an awkward angle with the motherboard, so
compare the various capacitors in your computer in terms of size and placement.
Additionally, a bad capacitor may have a funny smell or it
may have a brownish residue leaking from the top or the base.
Prevention
Manufacturers claim that capacitors may go bad because a
computer is not receiving enough power from a power supply, because of an
overclocked processor or because a computer is operating in an environment with
too much heat or humidity.
However, some capacitors prematurely fail due to faulty work
on the part of the manufacturer.
If you have a bad capacitor be sure to do research as to the
lifespan of other products made by your manufacturer.
Identifying bad capacitors
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ngA4k32jLGc
Capacitor replacement
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s0Pn2tEjY04
How to check a capacitor
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U4tnHA0phcc
Replacing a leaking capacitor
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s0Pn2tEjY04
Could be a problem with the Hard Drive or the Hard drives
PCB
http://www.onepcbsolution.com/
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=du0Qd_3wFWM
I had similiar if not the same problem after finding the PSU was at fault replaced it and it started restarting again checked all power leads for secure dust free connections and replaced the flat ribbon 40 pin ide lead fixed the problem i also this and added other possibilities in my first post but would be checking these first
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Most likely a hard drive problem. When you get the flashing cursor, it indicates a lack of an accessible Operating System. But, if the drive was good you would get a boot failure indication. I would try booting with an XP disc and look for the HDD (or try F2 when you boot) to get to the BIOS and look for the drives there.
SOURCE: Computer won't boot up.
Hi there.
The fan on the power supply unit (PSU) normally runs constantly from when you turn it on. It could be the PSU, but as you're getting power to everything else (drives, fan), then I doubt it. Before you spend any money on something like a new PSU, see if you can quickly borrow a friends to test. Also, have you tried using a different monitor?
Tim
SOURCE: e Machine T6534 fails every 6 to 9 months
This could be caused by the processor or fan,But very unlikely to be the mother board.
SOURCE: My e-Machine W3115 automatically shuts down multiple times
1) Computer off, and unplugged from power. (Unplug from the surge protector FIRST, then unplug the power cable out of the power supply)
2) Work on a table where you have plenty of room.
Open the computer case.
(Rear of computer, there is a thumbscrew midway up on the right side, or two thumbscrews. Loosen it/them all the way. {Turn to the left)
Pull the side cover towards the back of the computer about an inch, then it tilts out at the top. Remove the cover, lay it aside.
NOTE*
BEFORE you reach inside your computer you need to relieve your body of Static electricity.
Static will fry out, (Short circuit), the delicate computer hardware components inside your computer.
All you have to do is Touch the metal frame of the computer case.
Power unplugged from the computer, you are safe.
TOUCH the metal frame of the open computer case, your computer is safe. (Not shouting)
3) It looks as though the motherboard may not have to be removed, in this instance, to view the Electrolytic Capacitors I have in mind.
Not trying to insult your intelligence in any way. I may explain in some pretty simple terms.
Looking at a side view of your computer with the side cover removed from the case, rear of the computer to the left, view the Black processor fan.
The specific capacitors I would like you to scrutinize closely are the tall ones to the left of the Processor fan. (Heatsink is under the fan, and sits on the Processor, which is hidden from view)
There are 7 in a row going vertically.
What you are looking for.
(Edit: My apologizes. I meant to include a link for, Visual Signs of Capacitor Failure with my previous Clarification post. I see that I failed to do so.
Will not fail this time)
Construction of Electrolytic Capacitors:
Electrolytic Capacitors are constructed with three layers rolled up tightly, and inserted into a thin, small aluminum 'Can'.
Each layer is a thin strip.
1) Thin strip of metal which is a Conducting strip.
2) Thin strip of metal with a non-conductive medium applied to it, which is a Non-conducting strip.
3) Thin strip of paper which is soaked with an Electrolytic paste.
The thin strip of paper is laid in-between the two metal strips, and the entire affair is rolled up tightly.
The Conducting strip, and the Non-conducting strip have metal terminals attached to them.
These terminals protrude out of the bottom of the 'Can'.
The Can is open on the bottom, and has a seal.
The seal is composed of a rubber like material, and is a flat, round, shaped disk.
The terminals protrude through this seal.
The top of the Can is flat, and has a slot shape etched partially into it.
The slot shape is generally a lK or an X.
[The particular style of construction stated above for Electrolytic Capacitors, is used for computer motherboards, and power supply's. They are used elsewhere in the electronics industry, but our scope will only deal with computer motherboards, at this time)
When the Electrolytic paste breaks down, it develops a gas. Hydrogen gas. This gas expands, and pushes against the seal at the bottom of the capacitor, and the etching at the top.
When too much pressure is developed, the paste is pushed out, in a slow ooze.
The seal at the bottom of the capacitor can be compromised, as well as the etching at the top will split open.
When the seal is compromised, one edge of it is usually pushed down, and out. This has a tendency to make the capacitor lean to the opposite side. Also you may view paste oozing out.
The paste is usually a brown, to brownish yellow in color.
When the etching at the top splits open, the paste also oozes out.
Before this state is reached, the top of the capacitor may simply just bulge up, as well as the sides.
This is Visual Signs of Capacitor Failure,
http://www.capacitorlab.com/visible-failures/index.htm
The motherboard is made by FIC. (Federal International Computer)
Model K8MC51G
http://www.fic.com.tw/product/motherboard/AMD/K8MC51G.aspx
Gives you a better view of those Cap's without any hardware in place.
The capacitors should be above 1100mfd. (Microfarad)
Probably around 1600mfd.
Voltage? 16 volts.
As you can see I don't know for sure.
Electrolytic Capacitors can also have the Electrolytic paste dry up inside. There is no obvious signs of visual failure for this.
Check them out with a digital multimeter? They have to be removed to obtain a true reading.
Replace them?
Sure it's possible. Do you have good soldering/de-soldering skills? Proper equipment?
Parts availability? They are out there.
Not advertising for Radio Shack, but you may want to check with them, for one.
Would the best logical move, be to replace the motherboard due to possible Processor failure?
Not IMHO.
The Electrolytic Capacitors that surround the Processor are Voltage Regulators.
If they start going bad, or fail, the Processor won't receive the DC voltage it needs, and BIOS will turn the processor off.
A Processor must receive a steady, 'Clean', supply of DC voltage. It has to be within a very tight tolerance range.
The Processor should be good.
If the computer has been dirty inside, (As well as the Power Supply), then this means the Processor fan, and Heatsink has also.
If a Processor becomes too hot, (Goes past it's thermal limit), BIOS turns it off.
This is a Fail safe feature that is built-in.
If this happens too many times will it hurt the Processor?
I can't actually answer that.
It is a logical assumption that it would.
To come back to your statement, to me IMHO, the logical move would be to use that motherboard for a Frisbee.
(LOOK OUT!
Whoa, did you see the air I got with that mobo?)
Aftermarket AMD motherboard/Processor combos are Cheap! (Price wise, not quality)
Should explain a little. The AMD Sempron has been affectionately termed 'Sempy'.
Your eMachines W3115 Desktop PC has an AMD Sempron 3100+. Operates at a 1.8GHz maximum frequency rate, and has an 800MegaHertz Front Side Bus. {800MHz FSB}
This part isn't so bad.
The 512KiloByte cache - IS! {512KB}
Much better motherboards, and processors out there available as a combo.
It's a Micro-ATX form factor motherboard. Has a Socket 754 processor socket.
(A Micro-ATX motherboard is 9.6 inches by 9.6 inches in size.
Roughly 9 - 9/16ths inches by 9 - 9/16ths inches, or
244mm by 244mm)
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=5567180&CatId=2417
Just an example, not an advertisement for said website.
You will need different ram memory, however.
As for doing a diskcheck, I'll let the person who brought it up give the full solution to that.
SOURCE: Im using a emachines T3646 computer,only pwrled and 1syst fan wrk
Yes. Got RAM? The heatsink fan? How about a video card, and all the 12V (4 to 6 pin) connectors? All plugged in suitably?
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