Not blowing out good water presure - Hayward Power Flo Lx 1 Hp Pool Pump Sp1580

Recharge your system with freeon or r-12

ENGINE HAS TOO MUCH BLOW BY DUE TO WORN PISTON RINGS VALVE GUIDES ETC MOTOR TIME GOOD LUCK

Sounds like you might have a leak. If you charge the system and works for a time ,(hour, week, year) and then quits it sounds like perhaps the freon is leaking out somewhere. Freon does not ever get converted to air. Freon is in several states of existance while it is in your system. It is a high presure liquid, high presure gas, low presure liquid, and a low presure gas, but it is still always freon.
The valve your friend is talking about is called an expansion valve. What it does is to take the high presure "liquid" freon and allows it to pass into a low presure zone called an evaporator at a regulated rate. When you take freon at a liquid state high presure condition and expose it to a low presure environment it "evaporates" ( thus the name evaporator) and it gets very cold when it does this. This is where the cold air you feel coming out of the vents is made.
But the freon is in an enclosed system. By this, I mean it is never exposed to air, moisure (water), or anything else. I goes through all of these changes while inside this enclosed system.
Therefore, if the enclosed system is good then the amount of freon inside it will not change. If the amount of freon doesn't change then adding more will only make things worse.
I would suggest having the system checked with a hologen leak detector and/or system dye to find the leaks. Remember, if you have to add freon, then the freon that was there before must have escaped from somewhere.
Find a reputable shop to check the system for leaks. If it is leaking bad enough to run low in a hour it should be an easy to find leak.

need to take the control panel off and blow throu the presure hose and make sure it is clear .
after you do that put the washer on spin for 2 min the try to fill up on small load if that does not work then u need a presure swithch or a new presure line check for craks on the hose going to the tub

if waters not getting to the blade you will see the powder of what ever your cutting coming off the back of machine,i like to put my pump in a bucket of water under the drain plug instead of puting the pump in the water tray,you can run bigger tubing up to the blade and reduce it down and it will give you better presure,good luck

for starters check fo rotten washers get rid of black pieces take shower head some where to blow high presure air thru head good luck

Make sure that all the air inside the hose is out, sometimes pressure washers have a hard time bleeding out the air. Lastly it could also be your pressure relief inside the valve body of the pump the spring can get bound up and basically stay on relief, like when you let off the trigger it doesnt just blow the line or stall the motor good luck\

Water level switch is in the control area right behind the water level knob. There should be a tube conected to it. Follow the tub to the bottom of the tub. If this tube is not connected it will just keep filling. If you find the tube disconnected you will need to reconect the tube and drain the water and try refilling. If this tube is conected the take the tube off of the water presure switch and blow air through it to make sure it is not cloged and reconect, drain water and retest. if this still does not solve your problem your presure switch is probably bad and you will need to change it. every time you test you must drain the water so the tube will get air presure. If the tube has a crack or hose it will need to be replaced.

tankless water heaters are a great appliance with one small draw back they require a constant flow of water through them to maintain production of hot water if the water presure fluctuates they can cut out momentarily or if your water supply is less than great ie hard ,high iron,
sulpher ect.. then the heat exchanger can become plugged over time like say 5 years. Contamination of the flow sensor/presure switch could also be a culprit depending on how handy you are a through cleaning with a good kettle descaler will probably help.
Good Luck

if this occurs when the unit is in use for only hot water, there will be an internal leak in the secobndary heat exchanger, you will have to replace it. check first that the charging link has been removed when testing to ensure it is not passing.
if it happens when the heating is switched on then check the presure in the expansion vessel ( dump all presure from system and use a car foot pump with a gauge there should be 1 bar presure) that is the big red thing behind the pump, if water comes out of the test valve on the front of it when you try to test it or it wont hold the presure you will have to replace it (a nasty job you have to strip half the boiler) if you can pump it up make sure you release the presure in the system as you pump it or you will get a false reading