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Anonymous Posted on Sep 01, 2013

Ryobi pcn 4040 chainsaw won't start What is the

Ryobi pcn 4040 chainsaw won't start What is the procedure to start this. It is driving me nuts!

1 Answer

J.D. Browning

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  • Ryobi Master 2,760 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 31, 2015
J.D. Browning
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Joined: Mar 12, 2009
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1st add fuel/oil mix to fuel tank , then top off oil tank with bar oil , place saw down on flat surface , press 'ON" button above trigger handle to ON (its marked on case) then pull out blue choke handle till it clicks and stays out , press primer bulb with thumb 8 to 10 times bulb will become harder to press as it fills carb , push chain brake forward (on) ` place left hand on top of saw and right hand on start cord , hold saw down firmly and pull cord vigorsly several times till it sort of starts (sound) , squeeze trigger in and pull cord once more , saw should take off running , chain wont move ,walk to wood pile then disengage the chain brake and cut wood , if saw fails to start after this procedure then there must be a fault in saw , consult a exp small engine dealer for repairs

3 Related Answers

John Trevino

  • 1420 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 15, 2008

SOURCE: Ryobi PCN 4040 will not start up

When I was going to college I worked at a tool rental center and learned may tricks about tools. At this rental center chainsaws were seasonal thus sat in the warehouse probably as in your situation. Well one is supposed to store a chainsaw without any fuel and discard any old fuel mix because it will not keep. To easily start a saw that was in storage we would install a new spark plug, add fresh fuel mix and spray carburetor cleaner directly into the carbureter to get it started. Once started fresh fuel would be drawn into the engine from the tank and keep running. If you forgot to drain the old fuel, do it now and use the trick above. For best results, always use a fresh plug. Enjoy

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Anonymous

  • 4 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 01, 2010

SOURCE: Ryobi chainsaw magneto gap

The gap needs to be as narrow as possible without any actual rubbing of the rotor against the magneto. The spacing is not as critical as with spark plugs or points (remember them?) since unlike those gaps there is no spark jumping across this gap.

Generally, as long as the magnetic field is strong enough, the magneto will produce the necessary spark at the spark plug. The closer the magnets are to the coil, the stronger the magnetic field will be across the coil, and therefore the stronger and hotter the spark.

I have replaced magnetos and they are simple to install, and almost impossible to mess up if you do it this way. All you need is a piece of thin cardboard (not corrugated). I use a glossy business card without raised lettering (so it slides easily), or the like.

1) Rotate the flywheel so that the magnets are NOT positioned in front of the magneto, then loosen both screws of the magneto so it can move freely.

2) Insert the business card between the magneto and the flywheel such that the glossy side of the business card faces the rotor.

3) Then BEND the business card back over each side of the magneto (in other words away from the flywheel) so it stays fixed and can not move from side to side when you rotate the rotor.

4) Then while pinching the magneto and ends of the business card tight between your fingers, rotate the flywheel to position the magnets directly in line with the two sides of the magneto.

Note: The magnets will grab the magneto and try to move it. As long as the slippery side of the business card is facing the rotor and you haven't removed the screws, it should move fairly easily.

Since the magnets want to pull tight to the magneto, but the business card thickness is the same across the entire surface, this gives you an even spacing between both sides of the magneto and the rotor. Essentially, the magnets on the rotor do all the work for you. with regard to alignment. As long as the magnets (flat shiny polished square surfaces on the outer rim of the rotor) align directly with the two faces of the magneto, the alignment is automatic.

5) Once you have the magneto and rotor in perfect alignment, cinch down both screws in an alternating method, first just to where they start to grab, and then back and forth a few times until they are firmly tightened.

6) Now, unfold the flaps of the business card and let it move with the rotor instead. You should be able to rotate the rotor away from the magneto and the business card should slip out easily. It may stay where it was or it may slide out from the magneto - either way will work.

7) Once past the magnets, the business card should come out. You may have to move the rotor back and forth gently a few times to get it to come free. When you are done, the magneto should be in perfect alignment with the face of the rotor and the rotor should spin freely without any rubbing.

8) Confirm the above and then reassemble and go cut some trees.

Phil



Testimonial: "Thank-you very much, just as I suspected - had not come up with of an alternative to the feeler gauge so that was most helpful."

Anonymous

  • 6468 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 14, 2012

SOURCE: chainsaw chain brake on Ryobi PCN 4040

remove the cover and check the spring

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Ryobi PCN 4040 will not start up

When I was going to college I worked at a tool rental center and learned may tricks about tools. At this rental center chainsaws were seasonal thus sat in the warehouse probably as in your situation. Well one is supposed to store a chainsaw without any fuel and discard any old fuel mix because it will not keep. To easily start a saw that was in storage we would install a new spark plug, add fresh fuel mix and spray carburetor cleaner directly into the carbureter to get it started. Once started fresh fuel would be drawn into the engine from the tank and keep running. If you forgot to drain the old fuel, do it now and use the trick above. For best results, always use a fresh plug. Enjoy
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