Kenmore 10653532300. side by side. While defrosting, freezer light popped, probably from water. Now cannot turn unit on without blowing fuse in kitchen. Do I need call repair man or will things dry up and work tomorrow?

NOTE: This
is a multi-solution answer since I don't have all the tech from your question to pinpoint your problem
But the solution is in here generically, if you read and study the solutions very,very carefully.
First I would check cold control. Thats where you turn it off, if your temp is not warm. it can
be defective and not shutting off. If your temp is warm proceed with the following.
I would check the fan in the freezer. Listen to see if it is running
It moves air to the ref from the freezer
Then check to see if FREEZER CONTROL is turned WARMER WHICH MAKES THE REF COLDER AND VICE-VERSA. SEE?
The ref. temp should be about 33-35
The Freezer temp should be 0 to 10 Any thing below these temps is overkill and a waste of elect
The higher the number you turn it up to is the coldest
But is probably a common defrost problem The ice build up
is not being melted by the defrost system.The fan can't blow through the coils into the fridge.
Take out back panel of freezer to check for ice buildup. The coils should be clean.
There are three components to a defrost system- a heater,heater thermostat, and a timer unless you have a defrost electronic card.
Its best handled by a Technician but you could possibly do it by taking your model number to the nearest appliance parts store and asking for the parts. They are mostly located in freezer ,behind back panel on freezer coils.except the card which is usually located in ref The parts store will have info
Also check fan undernearh Ref in the rear
Clean condenser coils underneath
Make sure back cover is on the fridge. Some take them off and throw them away.
make one out of cardboard if its gone, using the holes of the old one.
.I'm including my article on Refrigerator Repair for your help and convenience.;
Please click or copy and paste into browser for Article

http://www.fixya.com/support/r5816737-fix_refrigerator_psychologically

If you need more help go here:

http://www.applianceaid.com/procedures.html

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WATER SPLASHING IN FREEZER AT ICEMAKER
THE FILL TUBE IN BACK OF REFRIGERATOR CAN SLIP
AGAINST THE FILL RESERVOIR CAUSING A PARTIAL BLOCKAGE
OR BECOME CLOGGED WITH ICE.
REMOVE THE ICEMAKER AND INSPECT THE FILL TUBE.
RUN WATER IN TUBE TO ELININATE BLOCKAGE AND CHECK
TEMP IN FREEZER. IF TEMP IS BELOW 0 DEGREES, THATS
OVERKILL AND USUALLY A WASTE OF ELECTRICITY TO KEEP IT THAT COLD, NOT TO MENTION THE FILL TUBE FREEZING UP
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Hi
If the refrigerator is in defrosting mode, the freezer compartment temperature will be less cold than usual. Wait 20 minutes, and you should be able to feel cold air blowing in the bottom of the compartment. If you have frost on the freezer coil, you probably have a defrost problem. Your freezer should go into a defrost cycle about twice a day. When this happens the compressor and fans shut off and a defrost heater in the freezer coil will turn on heating away the ice. This usually last 10 - 20 minutes. If the defrost coil doesn't defrost it will become a solid block of ice and this will in turn block the air from blowing into your refrigerator compartment. There are several things that can go wrong with the defrost cycle such as the defrost timer, defrost heater, or the defrost termination thermostat.

Let us know if you have something more to know else accept the suggestion.
Thank You for contacting Fixya.com

Remove the food and the ice maker from the freezer ( if equiped ) . Remove the rear freezer panel . Using a hair dryer , start in the middle , below the coils , defrosting , until you see the drain hole . Use hot water to help defrost the hole . Once water starts going thru the hole , use a small hose inserted into the hole , and blow thru , to remove any unseen debris in the drain line . Use an ALUMINUM or COPPER solid wire , 14-16 guage , with the insulation completely off , and insert one end into the drain hole as far as possible without any force . Wrap the other end about 1 1/2 to 2 turns , around the black rod (defrost heater) , above the hole . When refrig goes into defrost , the heat will transfer from the heater , to the wire , keeping the hole from freezing up again .

The problem is with your defrost system. If you remove the back panel of the freezer you will probably find a solid block of frost/ice. This restricts your airflow across the evap coils not allowing air to circulate to the ref side. It could be a problem with your defrost heater, termination, or defrost control. Your termination will be located at the top of the evaporator coils when you remove the back panel you can usually do a visual inspection of the component to see if it looks "popped out or swollen with ice" the heater can be tested for continuity. If the heater ohms out ok then the easiest thing to do would be replace the defrost control and termination. You will need to let the evap coils completely thaw out with a heat gun or by turning the unit off w/ the doors open for 24 hrs before plugging it back in after replacing components.

Also make sure your evaporator fan motor is running in the freezer to pull the cold air over to the fresh food side. If its not running then you probably have a bad evaporator fan motor.

Let me know if this helps _MJ_

I think you have a defrost problem. Look at the inside lower back panel of your freezer. If I'm correct, you will see ice built up. You can take the panel out, defrost with a blow dryer. (After defrosting you can check your heaters. I'm sure you have a bad heater) You can put panel back in and turn the unit back on. It will run ok for around 3 days, This will give you time to repair or get repaired without loosing you food.
Please rate solution

Just unplug the frig and open the freezer and let it defrost. Put the frozen items in the frig to keep them cold. Keep the frig closed if possible. You can assist the defrosting by blowing a window fan into the freezer. The room temp will defrost it quickly, or set a blow dryer on LOW and direct toward ice. Careful don't take the chance and turn that dryer on heat. And DO NOT CHIP ICE with a sharp object (patience is free). You may need to physically remove the water as the ice melts. - The source of the ice is probably condensation, or if it happens very quickly, there may be a ice maker leak. Once defrosted replace the frozen items and watch for cause of ice.

I don't know this particular frig, but evidently the defroster doesn't work. Frost buildup has blocked the flow of cold air.

There is a defrost timer, under the frig, accessible from the front. You can turn it with a screw driver. Turn it till you hear a click. If the timer hasn't been turning, that should turn on the defroster, a heating element nested among the freezer coils. Wait half an hour and if it is defrosting, water should be dripping into the drip pan underneath the frig. If so, then replace the defrost timer and you're good to go.

If that doesn't make it defrost, then the problem is probably the defrost thermostat, in with the freezer coils. When the frig defrosts, the defrost heater stays on until the defrost thermostat gets warm. It should be open circuit while warm. But if it is open circuit while cold, it is bad and is the cause of your defrost problem.

If you open up the freezer coils, use a hair dryer to defrost. That is safer than hot water.

Hope you can fix it.

The defroster is not working. Ice build up prevents cold air from the freezer chest from blowing into the lower part.

The way the defroster works is this: There is a defrost timer, probably found under the refrigerator at the front, that turns on the defroster three times per day or so. That turns on a heater nested among the freezer coils. It keeps heating until the defrost thermostat gets warm; then it quits defrosting.

I think your defrost timer doesn't turn. You can turn it with a screw driver till you hear a click. Now your ice compartment should be defrosting. With ice buildup it may need lots and lots of defrosting. You might not get cooling back into the lower part for awhile, till the ice buildup melts.

By the preceding, you should know if the defrost timer needs replacing.

If you should need to manually defrost the freezer coils, they are, I think, under the floor of the freezer. To defrost them, I'm told, a hair drier works better than boiling water. The defrost thermostat is in there too, a one inch unit with two wires. It should have no continuity warm, closed circuit frozen. If it has open circuit frozen, that would be your problem.

Check under the base, the tube must be clear to the water tray, often there is a rubber flow restrictor, this either perishes or blockes, either way remove it, defrost over night and then turn back on, should then work ok within 24hrs. Regards Adbvisor

it might have got stuck in defrost look for the defrost timer if it is a older fridge you can manuley turn it out of defrost to buy you time to getting a new timer