On auto all my images are over exposed, with light area too hot and dark areas weak. On manual all images are totally dark, however the details are all there and can be pushed with P.S. to regain most of the color and the detail, bu it appears forced and noisy. I appreciate any guidance. Also noticed that the shutter release button is slow in responding and has not responded at all at times.
I assume that this is a film camera that has light meter.
It could be that the camera is set to a different film sensitivity than the actual film.
For example, the film is 400 ASA but the camera is set to 100 ASA.
The sensitivity rating of the film is written on the film box and on the film cartridge. Make sure you set the film ASA number on the camera too.
SOURCE: error message
Your camera probably doesn't have a problem. Mount a lens on it and turn the aperture to the smallest opening = F/22 or F/32 then try it.
SOURCE: Err message
If the error message is on the left hand side of your LCD monitor then your shutter is not coming on line and it might be the 'reset' switch in the back cover locking mechanism that needs replacing. If the error message is on the right hand side of the monitor then this is because the F - stop on your lens is not set to highest setting ( 16 or 22 ) . Set your lens to highest setting and check again to see if error ( FEE ? ) disapears.
SOURCE: XR 7 locked up
Just read on another forum where the film rewind button can get stuck (little button on the bottom of the camera, used to initiate rewind), and removing the camera bottom allows access to unjam it. I'll try... takes a small philips eyeglass screwdriver and young eyes (or my reading glasses...)
SOURCE: nikon fm10 cannot get shuuter release button to
The film lever is also a switch. If you had advanced the film lever, **** it outward a little. You will feel the detent click somewhat when doing so. Leave the lever outward and see if the shutter will work. The detent is for appling an closed circuit for the light meter. When the lever is fully pushed back in it shuts the power to the meter on off to conserve battery power
SOURCE: Shutter Release Button Not Releasing Properly
You have the first signs of a very common problem on all AE-1's and similar AV-1's. Left unattended your camera will soon seize up with the shutter and rewind buttons, plus the advance lever all stuck. The trick to maximise chances of a successful repair is to get it fixed before it totally seizes.
Basically the camera needs a thorough strip down and overhaul. They're well built but fairly mechanically simple so in practice it usually just means that the camera is stripped down, parts cleaned of all dried-out gummed-up lubricants, and then reassembled and re-lubricated. New parts are near impossible to find, but there were millions of these models made so there are plenty of spares donors for most parts. DIY servicing IS possible, but you need to have the right tools, materials and instruction books and the investment for a one-off repair is simply not worth it. You also need to be confident in tackling repairs to precision machinery which may not have been disturbed for thirty years.
Just contact a camera repairer to ask what a CLA service (Clean, Lubricate, Adjust) will cost. In hard economic terms, it makes no sense, but a freshly CLA'd AE-1 in regular amateur use should be good for many more years of reliable service so you can get your money's worth. In the UK the service will normally cost between £60-£100 and in the USA it's a bit cheaper. Demand for camera servicing outstrips availability worldwide as so many repairers have gone out of business, so a common turnaround time is up to six weeks worldwide unless you pay a lot extra for express turnaround as used by professionals who depend on their cameras to make a living.
It's worth getting the camera light seals and buffers replaced at the same time: originals were made of a chemically unstable foam which by now will have turned into a corrosive sticky goo. Higher cost CLA's will include it as standard, lower cost ones will try to charge extra, but I have found that sometimes the shop may do it for free if you point out that you can take the camera elsewhere.
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