Crankshaft key busted out broke crank key slot on one side.

If you bent the crankshaft and are talking about the crankshaft sensor can't bypass it the car will not run without it

Have you removed the woodruff key?

make sure the pulley bolt is tight then check the pulley for being bent. if these 2 things are good then you may have a bent crankshaft at the pulley end or worn crank bearing causing it to wobble.

First, you have to loosen the crank pulley center bolt. Best way is with an impact gun-bolt is very tight. If you have to use a breaker bar to loosen the bolt, you will have to devise a way to hold the crankshaft from turning backward while loosening it. One method is to remove the starter and wedge a piece of wood against the flywheel, preventing it from turning, while you are loosening the center bolt.
From the beginning: raise and block the side of car that the front of engine is towards. Remove the wheel and the inner fender splash shield. Remove the belts. Remove negative battery terminal, remove starter. Wedge the flywheel so it won't turn backward. Loosen and remove the center bolt. Some harmonic balancers will slide right off the crankshaft now, some are on very tight, if you can't wiggle it, tap it, and get it to move, then buy an inexpensive harmonic balancer removal puller, just a few bucks, easy to use, will save balancer from trying to hammer it off. All you need is enough room to mount up the puller to the balancer, and get the balancer moving off the crank.
Some engine lay outs there isn't enough room: then you really have to get creative, either lowering engine enough to get to pulley, or raising engine out. But most engines are positioned where the crank pulley can come off easily, with enough room to get the puller on.
The pulley may have a woodruff key in a slot on the crankshaft, and a corresponding notch on the pulley, for proper positioning of the pulley to crank. Don't lose the woodruff key.

Make sure you check timing and the belt. if it spun don't risk putting it back on. Hope you got a new key. TIMING is important so you don't stick a valve through the top of your piston

yes, thats tone ring for crank sensor,car may run bad and trun on check engine light.good luck.

there is no "guide gear" I think you are talking about the water pump. replace the pump, belt, tensioner pulley and the crankshaft, camshaft oil seals. You may have bent valves. to ck for bent valves, take the valve cover off and ck the valve clearances, if you have any that are "way loose" you have bent valves. If you ck them and they are real close, just a little loose, adjust the valves while you have the cover off. GOOD LUCK. If you have no bent valves you are lucky.

First you need to find out if this is a "safe" engine, a few are but most bend some valve when the belt goes (you could try turning gently by hand using the alternator belt) proceed as follows:-remove the drive belts, water pump pulleys, crank pulley, and the upper and lower timing covers.  You'll also need to remove the motor mount if 
You'll need to move the tensioner for installation of the new belt.  Loosen both the pivot and clamp bolts on the tensioner.  Pry the tensioner up and toward the back of the car, and when at the rearmost position, tighten the clamping bolt.

You'll also need to line up the camshaft and crankshaft to TDC.  There's a small hole in the camshaft sprocket that lines up with a notch in the front camshaft bearing cap.  The hole should be pretty much straight up when aligned.  There's a notch in the crankshaft sprocket that lines up with a *** on the front case of the engine.  If I recall correctly, this puts the Woodruff key at about 3:00 when aligned.  

Then install the timing belt with all the slack on the tensioner side.  Loosen the tensioner clamping bolt to release the tensioner, let it self-tension with the spring force, and retighten the clamping bolt.  Turn the engine clockwise with the crankshaft two crankshaft revolutions (1 cam revolution).  This will make sure you have the proper amount of slack on the tensioner side.  Recheck to make sure your marks are still aligned.  Then loosen the tensioner clamping bolt once again to let it self-adjust, and tighten the clamping and pivot bolts.  

After that, it's just a matter of putting everything back that you took off, but before doing anything, you may wish to consider that it's likely engine damage was done when the timing belt broke.  You may wish to pull the plugs and examine before you start anything mentioned above.  Evidence of anything hitting the plug is a sign of a valve broken off and probably a need for an entire engine.  You may also, after installing the timing belt, wish to bolt the crank pulley back on and see if the engine starts.  If the engine cranks quickly (lack of compression) and won't start, you've at least bent some valves and will need to remove the cylinder head. 

The one item determining if this can be repaired is the condition of the keyway on the crankshaft and pulley. (the slot where the locating key goes) If the slot is severely damaged on either the crank or pulley, you will need to replace the damaged item. (if it's the crankshaft, its a really big job.) If it's not terrible, you can file it back to shape with a small flat file and get a new woodruff key. Chances are the majority of the damage is at the pulley. That should be changed. Otherwise, putting it back on is just a matter of sliding it on and tightening it up. (if you do this with hand tools, bring it to a shop afterwards and ask them to put an air gun on there to finish tightening.) You can usually get another pulley from any scrapyard far cheaper than a new one from dealer.