I also have the same problem with a jrc 1000 radar.. i have power to the back of the unit .. but the unit will not power up.. can any one help?? I also have the same problem with a jrc 1000 radar.. i have power to the back of the unit .. but the unit will not power up.. can any one help??
AnonymousMar 13, 2014
After count down is complete, the Press Xmit screen appears. When you press the Xmit button the unit shuts down. Prior to shut down the array sounds like it's spinning. If you start the start up over it will count down and the screen will remain on until you press xmit button.After count down is complete, the Press Xmit screen appears. When you press the Xmit button the unit shuts down. Prior to shut down the array sounds like it's spinning. If you start the start up over it will count down and the screen will remain on until you press xmit button.
AnonymousMar 13, 2014
JRC 1000 shuts off when xmit button is pressed after count downJRC 1000 shuts off when xmit button is pressed after count down
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Found my fault not i the power cable in, but the interconnect to radar dome..approx 50mm from radar screen a break in the wire, found it just by wiggling the cable.. the set wont power up if the interconnect not connected or is faulty
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If you need a replacement fuse, the correct fuse is a 2 Amp glass type fuse. If you are asking about what the current draw from the battery is on this radar detector, its about 1/4 of an amp.
Fuse #15 "BACK UP/ACC" (40 Amp) in the Underhood Fuse/Relay Box protects the circuits leading to Fuse #7 "BACKUP" (7.5 Amp) in the Underhood Fuse/Relay Box and also fuses (#5 "RADIO" (10 Amp), #6 "INTR LIGHT" (7.5 Amp), #7 "BACK UP" (7.5 Amp), #8 "not used", and #9 "FR ACC SOCKET (10 Amp) in the Driver's Fuse/Relay Box.
To further narrow down the source of your draw, pull each of these fuses one at a time.
No, that was not a "typo" There are 2 fuses marked "BACK UP" and are both 7.5 Amp and one is
in the Underhood Fuse/Relay Box and the other is in the Driver's Fuse/Relay Box. (I checked this 3 times just to make sure.)
As you look at the back of the display unit, the power plug has 7 connection posts.
Top left is pin 1 Bottom Right is pin 7
Pin 1 ..... + 12v
Pin 2 ..... - 12v
Pin 7 ..... Boat Ground
Normally the bearing pulse comes from the bearing pulse generator built inside the motor. Every time the motor turns it sends a pulse down the line showing the radar that it is indeed spinning. There is also a Heading pulse that comes from an electric eye elsewhere in the housing. The other thing could be that the wire carrying the bearing pulse is not getting back to the display. More so than often, it's the motor. I would have the display sent out to be checked on a simulator if there is a marine electronicshop nearby.
I also need this very same power cable. Did you find one already? maybe you can tell me wich one of the 7 input connections is the + and - DC power connection so I can connect this thing myself with a home made power cable. Greetings. Stan (holland) [email protected]
Thanks!
Your 8500 X50 draws less than 1 Amp of power. The best solution for hardwiring your radar detector is to purchase one of Escort's direct wire kits and then use an Add-A-Circuit (available at almost any auto parts store) to tap the direct wire kit's power into one of the vehicle fuse box's switched power fuses. I recommend tapping into a fuse which is rated for 10A or higher since the higher amperage fuse terminals have thicker wires running back to the car battery, and this generally provides cleaner power for the radar detector.
You didn't mention which fuse it was that blew; I assume you mean a house fuse, not the Bunn's.
Since you mention a fuse rather than a circuit breaker, again, I assume this is the screw-in type that must be replaced each time it fails.
Check your Bunn for the rated power consumption; it should be shown somewhere on the machine and is likely somewhere between 1000 and 2000 watts.
You need to find how much current the machine is drawing.
Divide the given wattage by your line voltage which is probably (if in the US) ~120 Volts.
For example: (from the Bunn) 1200 Watts/120 volts = 10 Amperes
That means that when the Bunn is heating water, it will need 10 amps just for itself.
If, for example, you have a microwave oven using that same fuse that has a rating of 1000 watts power to cook with, it will actually draw ~ 1400-1500 watts from the wall plug.
Again, 1500 Watts/120 volts = 12.5 Amperes
Now we have a total of 22 1/2 amps of current if both are operating at the same time or if any other appliance such as a toaster (also draws a bunch) is being used, you will most likely blow a 20 amp fuse if not instantly, perhaps after a few minutes.
Fuses are designed to blow in a few milliseconds if hugely overloaded or to be patient for a minute or two if the over-current is mild; say 21 amperes.
Over-fusing may be dangerous since the fuse rating is related to the gauge of wiring in the circuit it protects.
This means that you need to move the Bunn to a different circuit so you don't accidentally exceed the fuse rating with two high-powered appliances if turned on together.
Hi , I have a JRC 1000 with manual if it can helps ( in English and french but i ma in france. You can also use the installation manual of JRC 1500 available on internet under pdf format , very similar ( same screen and operating interface ) [email protected]
the amp draw rating on the amp is 100 you need to put a larger fuse in, such as a 150 amp, it would be a good idea to go to 0 ga but not needed. you might also want to upgrade your altenator.
I also have the same problem with a jrc 1000 radar.. i have power to the back of the unit .. but the unit will not power up.. can any one help??
After count down is complete, the Press Xmit screen appears. When you press the Xmit button the unit shuts down. Prior to shut down the array sounds like it's spinning. If you start the start up over it will count down and the screen will remain on until you press xmit button.
JRC 1000 shuts off when xmit button is pressed after count down
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