Can,t find defrost timer on my LTC19340ST. Tthe frizer compartment is geting frost all over and fan started to make noises

Your refrigerator's defrost system may be the cause of the frost buildup on the inside back panel and the higher temperatures in the refrigerator compartment.
To resolve the issue, you can take the following actions:
Check the thermostat for defrosting: Once the coils have reached a certain temperature, it is the job of the defrost thermostat to turn off the heater. It may not be turning off the heater, resulting in excessive frost buildup, if the thermostat is defective.
Using a multimeter, you can check the thermostat for continuity.
Check the heater that defrosts: During the defrost cycle, the defrost heater melts the accumulated frost on the coils. It's possible that the heater won't be able to melt the frost, resulting in its accumulation. Using a multimeter, you can check the heater for continuity.
Check the defrost control board and timer: The defrost cycle is started on a regular basis by the defrost timer or control board. It's possible that the defrost cycle is not being initiated, resulting in frost buildup, if the timer or control board is defective. Using a multimeter, you can check for continuity on the control board or timer.

And if the above is not helpful, do try the ones below;

Check the thermostat for defrosting: On the evaporator coils in the freezer compartment, you'll find the defrost thermostat. Once the coils have reached a certain temperature, it shuts off the defrost heater. Use a multimeter and disconnect the wires to test the thermostat at room temperature for continuity. The thermostat is faulty and must be replaced if there is no continuity , you can replace with https://amzn.to/3lvYEAy.
Check the heater that defrosts: In the freezer compartment, the defrost heater can be found on the evaporator coils. During the defrost cycle, it melts the accumulation of frost on the coils. Use a multimeter to verify continuity while disconnecting the heater's wires for testing. The heater is defective and needs to be replaced if there is no continuity with a new one that can be found on https://amzn.to/3lui4pr.
Check the defrost control board and timer: Behind the toe kick panel or inside the control panel at the top of the refrigerator is where you'll find the defrost timer or control board. It is in charge of periodically starting the defrost cycle. Using a multimeter at room temperature, check for continuity when testing the timer or control board. The timer or control board is broken and needs to be replaced with a new control board and timer via https://amzn.to/3I0j2Bn.
Examine the door seal: Warm air from the outside can enter the refrigerator and cause frost buildup on the coils if the door gasket is damaged or not sealing properly. Check the gasket for any signs of wear or damage, and if necessary, replace it.

Lets start by going inside your fresh food compartment and see if you can find a round hole most times covered by a plastic plug to hide opening. Remove plug and place a flathead screwdriver in opening and slowly turn the defrost timer clockwiseuntil you hear compressor and fans stop. This is called forcing manual defrost. After a few moments you should hear some sizzle or crackle noise coming from freezer compartment. That will be the defrost heater warming up the unmelted frost. Click Here=> ER2CHMXPL00 Liner Parts See item location 4? That is the defrost timer While the freezer has been set manually in defrost the defrost timer should be trying to come out of defrost itself after about 25 minutes. If it does not come out of defrost simply turn clockwise until the compressor restarts. If you need to do this replace the defrost timer.

482493 Defrost Timer Kit


If doing the above does not help you will need to manually defrost the freezer with a hair drier. Unplug refrigerator and remove the rear panel in back of your freezer. This is where you will see the defrost heater. Click Here=> ER2CHMXPL00 Unit Parts
2315530 Defrost Heater Assembly


On that same page instructions are in a video on how to test the defrost heater. At top of this solutionI mentione the Liner Parts item number 25 is the=> 4387503 Defrost Thermostat
Most likely the defrost timer is the part that is needing replaced. If not then the other two parts listed here are very possible reasons for the defrost failure.
ER2CHMXPL00 Repair Parts List
You may need Adobe Reader if you don't already have to open the PDF files Click Here=> Adobe Reader
User Manuals can be found here=> Whirlpool
I will be here should you have any questions, Thanks Sea Breeze

If there is noise of the fan rubbing with the frost build up on the freezer then it is confirmed that the defrost timer is faulty. Now shut off the fridge and leave it powered off while you clean and check the evaporator for frost.
Earlier make sure that the thermostat was set to normal mode for freezer and fridge.However if ice forms in the freezer then observe the fridge for about 24 hours for cooling to continue and the fridge to cut off . If not the auto defrost timer, or the thermostat must be checked. Frost formation without defrosting could block the air flow and so shut the air passage to the fridge. Also the blower fan must work and if this is not working then the fan can be faulty. Also a fault on the control unit is a suspect to non functioning of any one of these components.
If defrost timer works but frost keeps forming check while the compressor shuts if the heaters are working, check continuity of the heaters.
So try this test using a multi-meter on the defrost timer and the thermostat and make your observations so that we come to the solution.

Please check the link below for tips to remove the panels/parts:

http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/fridges-and-freezers/a/2

My fridge is running but not cold enough: Start out with the easy stuff first...make sure the lights go out when you close the door(s), make sure the doors are closing properly and the gaskets are closing fully and are not torn or ripped. Check to make sure the evaporator fan in the freezer is working, this fan blows the cold air around. If the fan is not working, possible bad fan motor - check for power to the f


The most common fridge "not cooling" problem is a frost free failure. Remove the access panel in the freezer section to expose the evaporator coils. If the coils in the freezer section get plugged up with frost, this frost will block the evaporator fan motor from blowing the cold air around. The fan blade can also hit this frost and either become noisy or stop altogether. Locating the defrost timer can be tricky....they are often hidden behind the back bottom corners of the fridge at the bottom, in the last few years the timers have been located in the ceiling of the fresh food section, and some are behind the cold control cover. Once you locate the defrost timer, slowly turn the screw likeknob in the middle of the defrost timer with a straight screwdriver until the fridge shuts off. You are now in defrost. If the defrost heater (s) comes on now, replace the defrost timer and defrost thermostat. If the heater(s) does not come on, you can continuity test the defrost heater for continuity or test for 120 volts to the heater(s). If you have no power to the defrost heater (s) you can also bypass the defrost thermostat to see if the defrost heater will come on, jumper the wires together to bypass the defrost thermostat. If the heater now comes on, replace the defrost timer and defrost thermostat. If the heater itself is bad, defrost the fridge with a hair dryer, replace the defrost heater (s) and defrost thermostat. If the defrost timer seems "hot" to the touch or is noisy ( like a ticking or screeching noise )...replace it.

Defrost timer


Defrost thermostat


Defrost heater

There is likely a problem with the defrost circuit or cold air circulating fan (but could be a low freon charge or other problem). The freezer compartment has the cooling coil with defrost heater and a fan that pulls cold air from the freezer and blows it into the fresh food compartment; based on the setting of the thermostat in the fresh food compartment.

When the defrost heater fails, the area that the cooling coil is located in eventually turns into a solid block of frost and ice. It becomes impossible for air to be drawn across the cold coil, cooled and blown into the fresh food compartment. The result is a rising temperature in the fresh food compartment - and eventually in the freezer section, too. Since the fresh food compartment contains the thermostat and the temperature never gets low enough to satisfy it - the compressor runs non-stop. That is, until the defrost timer kicks in to shut it off for 20 minutes or so.

The first thing to do is to manually defrost the freezer by accessing the cooling coil after emptying the contents of the freezer. This can be a pain in the neck to remove racks, shelves, ice maker, etc. to get to the back wall of the freezer, behind which the cooling coil is found. If you expose the cooling coil and it is encased in frost and ice it is a problem with the defrost circuit. If it is not - the fan is suspect. If the fan spins, check for a blocked path between the fan and the fresh food compartment. Defrost by placing a heat source in the freezer or directing the output of a blow dryer at the coil. If you're unable to access the cooling coil, you can simply empty the freezer and defrost it with a heat source. it will take longer to melt all the frost and ice, but it will work.

If it is a defrost circuit problem, you'll need to check voltages and continuity on the defrost terminator & timer and defrost heating element, fans, etc. after completely thawing the ice & frost.

This job isn't a good first time DIY job due to the danger of freezing skin, etc. due to possible exposure to freon in the system and the tight spaces you'll be working in with live voltages. You might want to call a pro after you've defrosted or put up another fixya request if you decide to dig in on your own and need specific help with procedures, locating parts, wiring diagrams, etc.

I hope this was a good starting point to help you decide whether to go forward or not on your own. Good luck!

If you have already adjusted the controls for temperatures in both compartments and allowed 12 - 24 hours to stabilize and the trend is continuing, there may be a problem with the fans that move the cold air from the freezer to the fresh food compartment. The fridge may also start allowing temperatures to rise in the freezer soon, too.

All of these problems originate in the freezer compartment, where the cooling is done. Behind the back wall; inside the freezer - lies the cooling coils, defrost heater, circulating fan(s) and defrost terminator sensor. Unplug the fridge. Empty the contents of the freezer, remove the ice maker assembly and the back wall plate and you should see these components. If it looks like a large block of snow and ice, the problem is with the defrost circuit components. If clear with a minimal amount of frost, the warm fridge is the result of blocked or limited airflow from this area to the fresh food compartment - likely a failed circulating fan. Plug the fridge back in and check to see if the fan is running - since the fridge is warm, it should be running. The fan or the thermostat will probably need replacing if it is not.

If icing or frost is the problem, you'll need to isolate and replace one or more of the following: defrost heater, defrost terminator or defrost timer. The last two are the usual suspects for this type of failure - but the heating element can fail too. Many times, the defrost timer is accessible from the front of the fridge, behind the kick plate below the freezer door on the right side. Other times it is located in or near the temperature control area.

Good luck!

That is because the fan has no resistance when drawing in air from the outside. When the door is closed, it becomes a sealed environment, and now must circulate air from the freezer to the refrigerator compartment. Sometimes a noisy fan indicates a frost buildup and the defrost system must be serviced. This consists of a defrost timer, Defrost thermostat, and defrost heater. Any one of those 3 may need to be replaced.

I think the good thing about this is your model has a defrost timer inside the fresh food compartment and behind the control panel. Look for a hole or plastic plug covering a hole about the size of a pencil and place a small flathead screwdriver in hole and slowly turn clockwise until the compressor and fans stop. This should begin the defrost cycle and remain off for about 25 minutes. Open freezer door and listen for crackling or noise of water melting and sizzling. If after 25 minutes the refrigerator does not restart slowly turn the timer clockwise again until it starts. Tell me what you find, Sea Breeze

Sounds like the defrosting system has a faulty timer/board, faulty heating element or bad electrical connections to these components.

More info, let me know...

Charlie

If there is frost on the back wall of the freezer compartment you have a defrost system problem. This could be the timer or the heaters.