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Posted on Apr 05, 2009
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Salad prep cooler too cold I turn the t-stat up or down compressor still running I think the t-stat is bad don't you think?

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Northeast Cooling LLC

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  • Expert 122 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 22, 2009
Northeast Cooling LLC
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Joined: Sep 22, 2009
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It sounds like the thermostat is "stuck closed". Try unplugging the cooler, MAKE SURE ALL POWER HAS BEEN DISCONECTED. Remove thermostat cover with thermostat on it. Carefully pull one of the wires spade connectors off the thermostat. Insulate the end of the wire you disconected with electrical tape. Now plug the cooler back in. If the compressor stays off the thermostat is the problem. Let me know if that helps. I know of a common replacement cold controll for that unit:)

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Compressor never comes on

I made video how to replace compressor on true air beer cooler, should be the same for most of prep tables and etc. Hope That helps someone. REPLACING COMPRESSOR TRUE AIR BEER COOLER R134A


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Temperature control does not work. Unit freezes everything no matter where the temperature control is set (Marvel Wine Refrigerator)

Either the thermostat itself is bad, or the relay is sticking. If you break the connection between the T-stat and the relay, and it keeps runnning, the problem is the relay.

If the compressor stops running when you break the connection or disconnect the T-stat, then the T-stat needs to be replaced.
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Machine works, but no water collecting

A dehumidifier is basically a cooler. The condenser coil on the outside should feel cold to the touch usually around 34 to 38 degrees, as air passes over the coils they collect the humidity in the air and it then drips down into a collector tray. If the coil does not feel cold it is ether a bad control switch not letting the cooler (compressor) turn on, low on freon, or burned out compressor
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Hotpoint ffa97p - the fridge is too cold and not responding to temperature changing

I'm assuming you're meaning that you reset the "cold control" in the refrigerator area and it is not responding. Try resetting the T stat in the freezer to between 2 1/2 and 3 1/2 and see if the unit continues to run on. If I have this the other way around, set the "cold control" the same as the T stat. The "cold control" is just a flapper door, it doesn't control the compressor only the T stat in the freezer does..
If the T stat is set as I said and the unit just keeps on running and never shuts down except to defrost, the T stat is bad and needs replaced.
There is a chance that the flapper door in the "cold control" is stuck wide open. Removing the cover and inspecting it might tell you if that's happening.
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Wont start up

pretty basic stuff. power cord could be abaded . check to be sure power is reaching the stat with a meter. if it is then check to see if its reaching compressor with a meter, obviously the box is hot so sta t should be calling if power arrives at stat but doesn't come out stat is bad. if it gets to compressor but no run then the compressor start components or the compressor itself are bad. stat has a power in lead and a power out lead. if you check volts between terminals and show 120 the stat is open and bad. if it is set to max cold and failing to send run signalit has to be the stat. if you have power to stat and stat shows no voltage terminal to terminal then its closed and power is not getting to compressor, trace wiring and check .if power is getting to compressor the checjk start cap and relay . if they are good then compressor is bad , usually to expensive to replace.
Nov 18, 2008 • Freezers
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Kenmore chest freezer

check light inside .on? you got power. check compressor in back on? if no then you probably have a bad stat. open door and look inside for numbered dial. turn max hot to max cold back and forth. if compressor comes on you need a new stat probably. remember only a stat a compressor on these units. if its hot stat should send power to compressor. if power is arriving at compressor and not running then start relay and or start cap are probably bad. but if compressor is running and still no cool then your probably out of freon. unfortunitly these boxes are made with steel tubing in the cabinets. when you move them lots of times the tubing rusts and ruptures. then your all done. new freezer time. they are sealed to the point there are not even a place to apply gages to check charge. you can gently remove power and then stat and jump thermomstat to take it out of equation and if compressor runs you need a new stat. constant power comes in one side of the stat and when the sensing tube is heated it closes the points to the outlet side and puts power to the compressor. there may also be a ground wire usually green be sure to observe which two are power in and power out. usually side by side. good luck
Oct 25, 2008 • Freezers
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