SOURCE: Oven burners won't shut off
Bat, your model number is right on accurate. Here's the scoop... the F3-E2 means the temp sensor inside the oven cavity needs replacing, but I doubt that your problem is the sensor. The problem is your "microcomputer". I call it an ERC for short. There are 3 separate circuits on your ERC; low voltage for your keypad, medium voltage for the mechanical relays and high voltage for you elements. When you program a cook time/temperature, the ERC translates this into medium voltage and activates the proper relay on the ERC (i.e... "bake", "bake w/ convection", etc...) to send high voltage to the proper component. All of that to say this, the relay on the board that activates the bake element is "welded" shut. When powered off, the relay won't open up! This will result in run-away temps. I've seen this before on Whirlpools. The ERC will have to be replaced, the part number is #8302994 and lists for ~$180.00 at your local appliance parts store. If you need assistance with the replacement procedure, post back. If you decide to get in there without posting back, DISCONNECT POWER AT THE BREAKER PRIOR TO ANY SERVICE.
SOURCE: SMEG SA708X Oven Heater problem
thermostat must be getting a blast of cold air from the door being opened.
SOURCE: oven door does not close
I had the same problem. The first time the Tech. came out, put a new hinge in and it held until Nov. 07. ( 8 months ). Then the left hinge brakes when I opend the door and it crashes to the floor. Bending the right hinge and the metal doorliner. Jan.7,08 everything was fixed. On 1/11 after no more then 10 openings & closings the hinge broke again. This time I heard the crack of the braking metal after opening the door 2 inches. It now sits in my kitchen propped-up with a stick, waiting for the repairman. I am sorry I have no solution , but there must be a problem with the hinges. I forgot to tell you that it started with a door that did not close, like yours.
Ingrid
SOURCE: How to light Oven Pilot for Magic Chef stove 31000 PAW
There is a cover plate that has two screws holding it down. Inspect the pilot area and you will see a hot surface igniter sitting right next to it.. That is what lights pilot and then the pilot lights main burner. You need a new igniter. Also do not touch any part of the hot surface igniter as human oil will shorten the life of part.
SOURCE: Interior oven light won't shut off.
Hi, i would check the pressure switch and its connection as well. either the switch is malfunctioning or the wires and connectors are corroded. simply replacing the wires or switch will fix this issue. the switch is usually located on the rim of the inside of the oven door. it will make contact with the oven door and as the oven door closes, the pressure switch is depressed inwards, thus, opening the circuit and cutting power to the light.
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