Lubricate model 875.199831 diagram is confusing. Is oil reservoir actually on bottom of case near the trigger?

On these engines, the two cycle oil is for lubrication of the crankshaft, rod bearings and piston wrist pin during operation. The transmission is separate from the moving engine components and requires oil for lubrication of the bearings, shafts and gears. There should be an oil port on the top of the transmission case for filling. Some have a dip stick on them and some have a site glass in the side of the transmission housing to visually see the level of the oil.

There is no place to add additional "oil to the engine" as you ask, but as the engine and transmission cases are attached at the base of the cylinder, its easy to see how someone can assume the transmission oil may be engine oil. Its not. The transmission oil also serves duty as lubricant for many motorcycle and 4 wheelers 'wet clutch' assembly as well. Low oil in the transmission could be detrimental to the clutch discs.

Gunk built up in between bar and saw

When your car is low on oil, there is a sensor (sometimes called a switch, as well) that will light up an indicator inside the car to inform you of the low oil level. In some cases, checking the dipstick will show that there is actually oil present, which can be confusing and frustrating because it contradicts the sensor. If this happens to be the case, more than likely the oil pressure switch/sensor is malfunctioning and will need replacing.

Keep us updated.

Sony can be a bit confusing the pcg581m is actually the part number for the bottom casing and NOT the model of the laptop itself.

You can try using the Auto Detect method on Sony's website here:

http://esupport.sony.com/US/perl/select-system.pl?DIRECTOR=DRIVER&PRODTYPE=24

Otherwise check the bottom right near the lcd, that's where the REAL model number is usually located.

Let me know if this solves your issue ;)

Remove the bar and chain. Clean all parts exposed including the bar drive-end small oil channels that feed oil out to the chain groove on both sides of the bar. Start the engine and look for oil oozing out of a small side port where the bar fits to. If ok and no oil seems to coming from under the case, reassemble all components. Start the engine and run the bar tip at speed near some cardboard--it should throw off a thin line of oil. This saw should have an oil volume adjustment screw in the case back near the lower run of chain or just under the case in the same area. Turn CW to reduce volume. Hope this helps!

I assume that by the term "transfer case", you're talking about the primary drive and transmission on your Sportster. The lubricant that you pour into the primary case also lubes the transmission. Not so on a Big Twin as they each have their own lubricants.

On the Sporty, theres a drain plug on the bottom of the primary case near the rear end of it. I'm pretty sure it uses a Torx driver to remove it. Drain the oil and refill with H-D primary & trans lube for Sportsters. Remove the derby cover at the rear of the primary cover and fill the primary until the oil level is even with the clutch pressure spring with the bike standing straight up. Replace the derby cover.

GM Full-Size Trucks 1980-1987 Repair Guide

Transfer Case - FLUID RECOMMENDATIONS
The type of lubricant used in the transfer case varies with model year and type of transfer case. Refer to the list below for the type that applies to your truck.

1980
Conventional transfer cases require SAE 80W or SAE 80W-90 GL-5 gear lubricant.
Full time systems use SAE 10W-30 or 10W-40 engine oil.
1981
Conventional transfer cases require DEXRON®II transmission fluid.
1982-85
All transfer cases require DEXRON®II transmission fluid.
1986-87
All transfer cases except the K30/35 series require DEXRON®II transmission fluid.

For fluid recommendations for the K30/35 transfer cases refer to the owner's manual. LEVEL CHECKS


Fig. Model 208 Transfer Case

Check the four wheel drive transfer case lubricant level every 4 months or 6,000 miles.

1. With the truck parked on a level surface and the parking brake firmly applied, remove the filler plug from the rear of the transfer case (behind the transmission). Be careful not to take out the drain plug at the bottom.
2. If lubricant trickles out, there is enough. If not, carefully insert a finger and check that the level is up to the edge of the hole, EXCEPT in full time four wheel drive cases should be 1 /2 in. below the hole.

Lubricant may be added, if necessary, with a funnel and tube, or a squeeze bulb.



DRAIN AND REFILL
Part Time Systems
No intervals are specified for changing transfer case lubricant, but it is a good idea for trucks that are worked hard or driven in deep water.

1. With the transfer case warmed up, park on a level surface and apply the parking brake.
2. Slide a pan of a least 6 pts. capacity under the case drain plug.
3. Remove the filler plug from the rear of the transfer case (behind the transmission). Remove the drain plug from the bottom.
4. Wipe the area clean and replace the drain plug.
5. Add lubricant with a suction gun or squeeze bulb. Conventional transfer cases require SAE 80W-90 GL-5 Gear Lubricant.
6. When the lubricant level is up to the bottom of the filler hole, replace the plug.

Full Time Four Wheel Drive
The full time system requires oil changes at regular intervals, according to the amount and type of work done by the unit. Trucks used for normal on-off road work should have the transfer case oil changed at 24,000 mile intervals. When used for heavy duty work, trailer towing, snowplowing, and the like, the interval should be halved to 12,000 miles. If the truck is exposed to extremely dusty or muddy conditions, the oil should be changed at 1,000 mile intervals.
The transfer case oil must be hot before changing. Drive the truck until the engine has reached normal operating temperature, and park on a level surface.

1. Slide a pan of at least 8 pts. capacity under the case drain plug.
2. Remove the filler plug.
3. Remove the lowest bolt from the front output shaft rear bearing retainer cover, and allow the lubricant to drain. Be careful; the oil will be hot. There may be a drain plug. If so, remove that instead.
4. Remove the six bolts on the left (driver's) side of the case which secure to P.T.O. (power take-off) cover. Remove this cover and allow the lubricant to drain out.
5. Remove the speedometer driven gear from the upper left rear corner of the case.
6. Use a suction gun to remove as much lubricant as possible from the case cover location and the speedometer gear location.
7. Install the speedometer driven gear, the P.T.O. cover, and the lowest bolt or drain plug.
8. Add approximately seven pints of oil through the filler plug opening. The proper oil to use is 10W-30 or 10W-40 engine oil.
9. Check the fluid level and add sufficient oil to raise the level to 1 /2 in. below the filler plug opening. Replace the plug, and wipe the surfaces of the case and skid plate to remove any excess oil. Drive the truck and check for leaks.

I really hope help ypou woth this (remember rated this help) Good luck.

hi buddy if your on about the brake reservoir there totally different lubricants to refill the oil in the engine you need to unscrew the filler plug on the left side casing of the engine the blue plug on pic below and replace the oil with {silkolene pro 4 sx 15w-50} fill this up until it reaches 1/2-3/4 full on the oil sight glasslocated on the right casing also the brake reservoir is on the front brake lever pic below will show you unscrew the lid to refill with dot 4 brake fluid also the same with rear fill with dot 4 hope this helped buddy get back to me if any probz

in some cases the reservoir that the tank sits on would have to be replaced. best way to tell is, if you take the tank off and pour a little water in the valve where the rubber gramet is. if it holds the water its good, but if it goes down without you pressing the trigger then it will be the reservoir.

The drain plug is on the left center engine casing, near the front of the case at the lowest point of the case. Warm up the engine, turn it off then drain the oil after removing the oil fill dipstick on the top of the casing. The bike should be resting on the side stand.

The filter is at the rear of the engine near the bottom. It unscrews by turning counter clockwise. Put a thin film of oil on the new filter rubber seal and threads. Tighten hand tight then 1/4 turn more, ( 22 foot pounds of torque ). Use a genuine Honda filter. Aftermarket filters are inferior and can cause the bike major damage if they fail. I have seen them collapse internally and plug up the oil flow. The engine is pretty much trash after this happens. Aftermarket filters are cheap for a reason.
Use 10w40 motor oil in the gear box. Don't use any synthetic oils, oil marked "EC", or oil with "special" additives. Up North use 20w40, down South use 20w50 motor oil. Stick with the major brands; Pennzoil, Quaker State, Mobil or Shell.

Go to the site below where you can see a parts diagram for your specific bike. You will select the actual brand, year, model, etc., once you go to the site. Part numbers and prices are also shown. You can order parts from this site. In the event no price is shown on a particular part, the part is not in stock.
www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrandand/parts.aspx

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