I have a 1988 Powermatic 66 which has been used very little by the previous owner. While cleaning all the gears on the bevel mech. and getting it to work smooth, I could not ever get the elevate mech. to work as smooth. From the full down position it's hard to get started to crank up. Once it's be cranked a turn or 2 it will raise fairly smoothly. I've degummed it and tried to the best of my abilities to clean the worm gear and rack. I insured I got a flat edge in each tooth. Then I used a graphite dry lube. It still didn't do very well. Yesterday I had to use 2 hands just to get it moving, then it moves fairly good....still not as smooth as the bevel gears though. Any suggestions?
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Simple solution: switch two of the wires. Doing so will reverse the direction of the motor. You can switch it at the motor or on the electrical plug end.
Check to make sure the arbor set screw is not loose. The bearings may have shifted when you moved it. I recently rebuilt an old 66. Repositioning the bearings and tightening the set screw could be all it needs.
Try lubricating with silicone spray. I use it for just such things, and I'm happy with how it works. Also, clean and lubricate the lock on the elevation control.
On the Powermatic 66's the first two numbers are the year in which it was made, so yours was made in 1997. The second set of two numbers is the model. The last numbers I"m unsure of but its my understanding that they represent the manufactured number, so yours was the 1,400th saw made for that year.
The square tooth screw and nut tend to fill with sawdust, which saturates with oil to cause the threads to bind (like a dirty nut and bolt.).
Clean the bolt with a cleaner, then apply a little wax to the threads (crayon or bees wax). Be sure to run the assembly up and down to cover the whole "bolt" and make sure to apply to the point of the screw that assures some of the wax works into the nut.
Wax is less likely to cause wood dust "mud" that WD-40 or other lubricants would cause.
Check the slides or guides that guide the assembly as well. CLean and lubricate with wax as needed.
That is the current setting for a motor-starter which is an overcurrent sensor. This is a circuit breaker like device that usually has a heater coil that opens a contact which cuts the power to the relay that powers the motor to prevent overload damage to the motor.
The dial is in AMPS and should be set just slightly higher than the nameplate amp rating for the motor.
Either it has a problem with a blade brake or the motor is siezing. Or the is a wiring problem. With the unit unplugged check and see if you can turn the blade by hand, if not the motor is the problem. If it does you could still have a motor problem by it drawing to much amperage or the is a wiring problem.
No. Unplug saw remove saw blade grasp shaft that saw blade was on wiggle back and forth. Should not be too much play. After 10 years motor bearings are proably worn. Easy to replace
Your saw motor is equipped with a two speed internal start switch. Over time saw dust will get into the contacts and cause the points to burn. You can pull the end off of the motor and take some 400 grit sandpaper to the contacts to clean them( there are two sets of contacts one works in the out position the other in the in position) it will be the set in the in position that is the problem. Gentle clean them, reassemble the motor end cap and it will work fine. I have to do this about once a year to my saws. I use my saws about 25 hours a week. I have been doing this to one of my Powermatic saws for 31 yrs. now.
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