Switch and capacitor crapped out on 1/2 hp Sears bench grinder

This switch is a very close fit, and it is rated for 20A 120VAC.
2LNA7 $11.09 / each
Grainger

I've used it on that vintage Craftsman bench grinder.
http://www.grainger.com/

hceck the belt driver ,it mite be broken

this is a "Split-Phase"motor it uses only a run capacitor and a typical capacitance rated MFD rating will be between 80 and 290 MFD, go to www. grainger..com and they will have your part,and even if its an older unit and the model/serial/number is available take it with you & they will have a replacement capacitor available in the correct size/dimension/mfd/etc

You could connect the wires of the switch together inside and bypass the switch. Then I would connect in the power cable a switch rated for 1 hp. You can use surface mount electrical box, with two cable connectors (one for the cable going into the grinder, the other for the cable going to the male cord end of the cable. Install a 120 volt switch inside the box (similar to the light switch in the wall). Make sure that the switch is rated for 1 hp. I would install the switch under the bench, under the grinder.

Joe

Hi there, with out seeing it I`d say your brushes are gone and ceasing. I hope this solves your problem.

I had the same problem with a Northern Tools bench grinder. These are made in China and parts are hard to come by. I had enough room after removing the old broken on/off switch to install a single pole 15 amp light switch like you use in your home. I simply installed it horizontally and then put the switch cover on. It works perfectly. If you do not have enough room then look for any 15 amp or larger switch that will fit in the housing. Any on/off switch will work. You could even mount the switch on the bench in a switch housing and run the wires from the grinder to the switch and back if need be. Just be safe and make sure there are no exposed wires. As a last resort you could remove the switch connect the wires, eliminating the switch and use a plug in wall switch such as this.

this switch is no longer available from Sears, so I suggest making a wiring drawing and taking the switch to a local electrical supply house and try matching it up with a replacement. It seems to be a simple on/off type switch and I would think that you should have no problem. Let me know if you do and give me the information on the switch and I will try some other sites I know.

the two copper tabs under the on off switch are to break the power source.connect incoming power to one of these(black) then a short piece of wire from the other tab under switch to one of the three tabs under plate that is marked hot or l1 is probably #2 but you need to be sure. the white is the nuetral or l2 which is most likely #3 and the green is the ground most likely #4 I would definately look online for a wiring diagram to be sure if they are not marked with L1 L2 and GND

white should be the neutral,the two blaks are your primary(power)