Needle stuck in right position, will only sew tiny,tiny stitches

ManualsLib has the manual for the BabyLock Quest Plus (BLQ2-PL) here: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/537167/Baby-Lock-Quest-Plus-Blq2-Pl.html#product-Quest%20PLUS%20BLQ2-PL . The needle stop position button is the top button above the reverse button. To adjust the needle position for straight stitches, you press the stitch width button on the sewing machine. Pressing the - button will move the needle to the left; pressing the + button moves it to the right. The machine should start with the needle centered. See page 49 of the manual for the pictures of the machine button and the stitches that allow for needle position changes. To avoid damage, you can't move the needle left or right for most zig-zag stitches. The needle will move to the left and right from the center based on the desired stitch width.

I hope this helps. If your sewing machine needle isn't centering the needle correctly when you turn on the machine, it may need to be serviced.

Cindy Wells

The stitch Width selection regulates straight-stitch or zig-zag width. Needle position does not determine straight or zig-zag. Needle position just determines whether the needle's home position is center, left, or right. Needle position can be used with straight or zig-zag stitching.

The U shaped clamp usually hooks "around" the needle screw. Yes, usually the walking foot may need oil (just a tiny bit) where the parts move against each other.

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sounds like the machine froze up, machine needs to be serviced

Hopefully it is a bent needle. Replace the needle first. If that doesn't work you will need an adjustment made on the hook. That is when you will need to take your machine to the repairman.

Have you found the blind stitch foot? On my Elna SU it has a piece of metal shaped a bit like a boat rudder in the middle, going front to back. Do you know which stitch does blind stitch? On my Elna it does two or three straight stitches and then one zig zag stitch. Make absolutely certain the needle is in the centre position before you start, if not, it will get expensive on needles! Fold up your hem and press it, and tack it into position. Blind stitch is a bit different, you need to position the presser foot so that the hem is on the right hand side of the paddle, and the "body" of the item is to the left. In order to do this, you need to fold the body of the fabric again (but don't press it or it will leave a line). I'd suggest a few practice runs first on scraps of fabric, so that you get the fabric positioned correctly. It will also take a bit of fine tuning to get the needle to just take a tiny bit of the body of the item. I found it a great stitch for things like curtain hems, and fairly heavy fabrics like tweed, because done properly it's far stronger than hand sewing and the stitch hides itself in the fabric, but I find it difficult to get it just right.

Make sure you are threading the machine correctly. Make sure you are using serger thread that isn't old. Make sure you are undoing all the threads when it breaks and thread it from the beginning.

Make sure you have the right needles in their respective places. My Juki MO has two different size needles.

First Clean the upper thread path with unwaxed dental floss or some sturdy thin fabric like light weight denim. Get in between those tension discs and floss away. Then make sure you are threading the machine properly with the lever in the UP position and have a proper sized needle. (not all needles are alike) Make sure the needles you are using are not damaged or bent.

Go ahead and clean in and around the bobbin area. Make sure your bobbin is going in the correct direction in the bobbin case. (yes it makes a difference)

Do a test seam. Note any improvements... If you have loops on bottom... tighten the top tension. Loops on top.. tighten the bobbin case tension (look for tiny screw)

Do a test seam. Keep working the tensions until you get a balance stitch. Be patient... this sometimes takes a bit of time to get it right. Work mostly with the top tension if you can.

To determine if it is a timing issue, take off foot, throat plate and bobbin plate so you can really see. Use the hand wheel to get the needle to the lowest position. Note where the shuttle hook is... ideally it should be just about to pass the needle scarf at this point. If it is more than just a few millimeters away, it's out of time.

I can't help with with a manual for a JCP machine not sure where once could be found... would need more than just "JC Penney sewing machine to find one anyway... need model number."

Some machines are not designed to sew the straight stitch with the needle in the center position. Some are left or right position to do that and it is simply the way they were designed. Linda at Relics

NEEDLE BAR HEIGHT
With the pattern selector dial set at maximum zigzag width and when the point of the rotary hook exactly meets the right side of the needle in ascending travel of the needle bar from its lowest position, at the right needle drop position, the distance between the upper edge of the needle eye and the race of the rotary hook should be 3.3 ± 0.3 mm.

You also need to look at the timing

HOOK TIMING
With the needle bar swung to the right at the maximum zigzag width, the amount of ascending travel of the needle bar from its lower position to the position where the tip of the rotary hook exactly meets the right side of the needle should be 1.7 ± 0.3 mm.