I AM NOT AN ELECTRICIAN ! But i have had the same problem of the oven and the back right ring not working and have found the cause of this. For some reason there is a thermal fuse running inline on a live wire inside the cooker if you feel competent yourself in replacing this fuse you will save a good deal of money on call out fees, here is how to do it. SAFETY is the crucial, First of all isolate the power source to the cooker, pull out cooker so you can get access to the back of the cooker, remove the 9 screws ( i think there is 9) to remove the back plate from the cooker, this is quite heavy because there is a small block of concrete fastened to the bottom left hand side of the back plate, looking at the inside of the cooker on the right hand side you will see a white wire which has been secured via a small screwed clip, this wire has a transparent sleeve covering the thermal fuse, remove the sleeve by sliding it up or down the wire, check the fuse by with a meter just to be sure, if it is blown cut the fuse out. replace fuse the same way it was fitted. replace the sleeve and fit the back on the cooker SAFETY FIRST switch on power and try oven and back ring, mine works fine. like i said at the start i am not an electrician, but i can not understand why there is a thermal fuse running inline to the oven which is linked the back right hob. all the best folks Hobbo from Chess.
hiya hobknob
where did you acquire your thermal fuse, what type/power/rating fuse did you ask for and how much did it cost? [email protected]
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We had exactly the same problem which occured twice until an engineer found that the thermostat in the main oven was not connected correctly (I believe it had been crossed over from that in the top grill) the oven would therefore not cut out when it reached the desired temperature and so continued to heat up until the thermal fuse blew. Hope this is of use.
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