Flooding carb when i put fuel in the tank the engine floods without running the gas fills and overflows the air inlet till the tank is empty the tiller is not running and the gas keeps flooding the intake till the tank is empty ?

If you can hear gasoline to continue to trickle in it has to be going somewhere. Either on the ground or into the crankcase. If oil level is high then fuel is overflowing the bowl and into the crankcase.

Since a new carburetor does the same as the previous, likely there is debris in the fuel tank and it is preventing the carburetor inlet needle valve from closing.

The fuel solenoid is for afterfire suppression.

If there's no fuel in the crankcase try removing the air filter, run briefly then shut off, restart. If it now starts without flooding then likely the air filter is restricting.

Comment for further assistance.

The float in carb is not shutting off suply when the carb chamber full so the fuel is constanly filling the carb this is known as flooding carb either the float needle is mis aligned with the needles seat or theres a object or deris the seat stopping it fully closing off the fuel flow cheak thease the float may also damaged and filling up with fuel this stops it riseing and again the carb floods

Yes. The 3 outlets from the tap are prime/on/reserve.
Prime is used to prime the carb and allows fuel to flow without the engine running. On and reserve only allow flow when the engine is running. As you are probably aware, don't leave on prime as it will flood and overflow the carbs......only use to prime an empty carb.

it sounds like it is still you needle and seats are worn or your float has a hole in it just check the float and see if it has fuel inside it ,but i say a new set of needle and seats and bowl gaskets cheers

try screwing the bolt of the fuuel holderr in the carborator, whhichh is generally used for overflow, screw it tight ,

If the machine's fuel tank is located ABOVE the level of the engine's carburettor then it is most likely a "Gravity Feed" fuel supply system .. i.e. no fuel pump reqd.
If that's the case then the carb has 'flooded' at some stage (most likely when engine was not running), and the fuel has simply flowed down thru the carb and into the intake tract, and then down into the sump via the crankcase breather tube. This is extremely common on "low end" brands which, for reasons of economy, are not equipped with low-mounted fuel tanks and fuel pumps.
The reason that the carb has flooded is usually caused by a leaking Needle & Seat (aka Float Valve) in the carb, which could simply be caused by a bit of debris stopping the inlet needle from seating, OR, the Inlet needle may need replacing.

The reason why the engine wouldn't start is simply that it was flooded ... just like cars used to do back before EFI. Drain the crankcase and re-fill with oil, remove the spark plug and let engine dry out overnight, fit a new dry plug, put throttle lever at about 1/4 open, and crank the engine (OUTDOORS!) till it starts. May take a while to fire up, and may be a bit smoky for a while, but it should go.
My advice ... NEVER buy a lawn tractor with a gravity feed fuel system. There should be laws against them.

If the machine's fuel tank is located ABOVE the level of the engine's carburettor then it is most likely a "Gravity Feed" fuel supply system .. i.e. no fuel pump reqd.
If that's the case then the carb has 'flooded' at some stage (most likely when engine was not running), and the fuel has simply flowed down thru the carb and into the intake tract, and then down into the sump via the crankcase breather tube. This is extremely common on "low end" brands which, for reasons of economy, are not equipped with low-mounted fuel tanks and fuel pumps.
The reason that the carb has flooded is usually caused by a leaking Needle & Seat (aka Float Valve) in the carb, which could simply be caused by a bit of debris stopping the inlet needle from seating, OR, the Inlet needle may need replacing.

The reason why the engine wouldn't start is simply that it was flooded ... just like cars used to do back before EFI. Drain the crankcase and re-fill with oil, remove the spark plug and let engine dry out overnight, fit a new dry plug, put throttle lever at about 1/4 open, and crank the engine (OUTDOORS!) till it starts. May take a while to fire up, and may be a bit smoky for a while, but it should go.
My advice ... NEVER even approach a lawn tractor with a gravity feed fuel system. There should be laws against them.

The only thing that stops gas going into the carb is the needle valve and seat in the bowl of the carb.
Doing the same thing with 2 different carbs sounds like trash in the gas tank flowed into the carb and is holding the needle valve off the seat allowing gas to flow all the time.
Clean the tank. Clean the trash out of the needle valve/seat. Add a small engine fuel filter between the tank and carb.
You should be good to go.

keeping the vehicle running during a fill up is a definite NO NO! there is the increased risk of a fire(very bad) the possibikity of someone stealing your car(bad) and the increase for the problem you are experianceing( not so bad, fixable and preventable). the reason youre having the trouble is youre essentially flooding the engine with raw gas. while the engine is running it creates vaccuum in the evaporative emission system. in a nutshell, its constantly sucking the fumes out of the gas tank and burning them by running it thru the engine, there is a small valve in the tank thats supposed to be exposed to air in the tank, when you fill the tank with the engine running you are drawing this air out while the fuel is being added and you are more than likely sucking the raw fuel into the charcoal canister and its becoming flooded with fuel instead of vapor. after you wait about 10 min this exess fuel has evaporated enough that just the vapor is being drawn into the engine again and allowing it to start. in short dont keep the car running while filling, dont fill past where the hose shuts off the first time, trying to cram an extra half gallon into the tank, and this should no longer be an issue.

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

Initially, to your queries:

• hook up all the vacuum lines - yes or cover/plug all
• to stop fuel flow - hooking up all the vacuum lines or covering/plugging them would be technically correct but will not stop the flooding/fuel overflow;
• run correctly - with constant overflow/flooding, it will not run correctly.

To my knowledge, overflow could only be caused by:

• faulty valve pins, worn out rounded pyramids, necked/indentations on the surface of the rounded pyramid, cracks (rubber type);
• worn out inlet port;
• dirt, sand, foreign object lodged against inlet port hole;
• mis-adjusted floats;

Which would mean, go to do it all over again.

Just a start, do postback how things turned up or should you need additional information. Good luck and Thank you for using FixYa.