New Single Feed switch/outlet not working

Yes.
The code is maximum 12 boxes per circuit breaker.
You can connect a 12-2 NM W/G cable to one of the outlets. Black-to-black and white-to-white and ground-to-ground. Black is hot, white is neutral, and ground is ground. And bring that cable into a hollow-wall box you install 50" high on the wall. Then run the 12-2 cable up to your light fixture.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/GE-15312-single-a-300.jpg
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-switches.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/OWB1.html

You can also replace one of the outlets with a combo switch-outlet. The run singe 12-2 cable up to light.
This wiring diagram shows half way down how-to-wire-switches page.
Outlets have wide blade on neutral side, and narrow blade on hot side.
The black hot wires from old outlet connect to side of combo device with narrow blade.
The white neutrals from old outlet, and new wire going to switch, all connect to silver screw on wide-blade side of new combo device.
The black wire going to new light connects to screw next to switch located on wide-blade side of device.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Open following link to see illustration:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Single-pole-switches-in-4-gang.jpg

Each residential electric box has 1 hot wire. This wire should be black.
Hot wire carries power from the breaker box.
Use tester and find hot wire.

Each device in box connects to the black hot wire using short jumper wires.

Outlets: Hot wire connects to brass colored screw.
Single-pole switches: Hot wire connects to either brass-colored screw.

Neutral wires are usually white, and are twisted together.
Neutral wires connect directly to silver screw on each outlet.

Wire going to lights connects to other brass screw on each switch.

Normally a socket needs both black power in and white ground out.
Normally a switch only needs the black power in and black power out to the device.
With a switch, the white return from the device goes directly to the white out, with a wire nut.

So you have a good reason to be a little confused with a switch and socket combination.

Normally I use an ohmmeter to figure out all the screws on a device like this first. But now that you have already connected some wires, you can probably just use a neon test light.
I think you are probably correct that the power is easy.
So put a neon test light with one lead on the white ground that came with the black power, and see which screw changes as you throw the switch.
If you don't get anything, then try directly from the white to black.
The screws should have some color coding. Brass for black, and chrome for white. There are often 2 black power screws because one is input and the other is for piggy backing off to the next device. There should be 2 white screws, one for the outlet and one back from the device. But there has to be another out from the switch to the device. I normally wire that in black as well. But hard to say what color this combination would use.

Hi,
White wires under the silver screw...
The black wire under the black screw...
and the red wire under the brass screw...

If it does not work right then switch the red and black wires...

heatman101

How many sets of wires are coming into the box?
If the box is in the middle of the circuit you will have a power-source black & white wire coming in and a power-source black & white wire going out. And in this case for the switch - there must be a black and a white wire going to a light.

Typically with a switch/outlet combination all the white wires will splice together with a white pig-tail wire to feed the neutral side of the device. The two black wires from the power-source will splice together with a black pig-tail and feed the hot-side of the device. The black wire going to the light will go on one side of the switch.

Looking at outlet/switch device from the front the large slot side of the outlet will be the neutral side and the smaller outlet slot will be the hot side. The neutral side screws will be steel colored and the hot side screws will be brass colored. The white wires will go to the neutral side steel colored screws, and the black wires will go on the hot side brass colored screws on the outlet.

The black wire comig into the box from the light is called a switchleg and goes to a brass screw on one side of the switch. The brass screw on the otherside of the switch will be for the black wire coming from the power-source.

Hope this helps - and please:

TURN THE BREAKER OFF BEFORE YOU START WORKING WITH THE WIRES!

The big slot is the white wire ground is the green screw small slot is the black wire the 2 screws next to each other is the hot

1) A wiring diagram can be mistaken because wire colors vary.
That's why electricians don't guess, they test.

2) Look at device to be replaced and note what color screw each wire goes to before disconnecting wires.
If old device is single pole switch, then there are 2 brass screws, and one of these screws is connected to Hot wire, and the other screw is connected to Load wire (light, fan, motor, pump)

3) Separate wires inside box for testing.
Do not untwist any wires.
Tape tester leads to wood sticks to keep hands away from power.
Turn power ON.
Test each wire to bare ground wire.
Tester lights up on Hot. Hot wire connects to dark-colored screw on combo device.

4) Hot is identified.
Test Hot to all other wires, except bare ground wire.
Tester lights up on Neutral wire. In a single-pole switch box Neutral wires are usually twisted together and covered with wire nut. Neutral wire connects to silver screw on new device.

5) Load wire that goes to light,fan, motor, pump connects to brass screw on new combo device.

6) If you do not have a Neutral wire in your switch box, then outlet will not work.
You can connect bare ground wire to silver screw and have outlet work, but this is not code, and definitely not recommended for a child's room or any room near water pipes or faucets or metal pipes of any kind. You need to add a Neutral wire and/or install GFCI protected device for any bathroom area.

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, expert speaks with you over phone while you work on circuit or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

Paper Loading

Rear Feed, Continuous Forms

Use the rear-feed path for printing on single-thickness,

continuous-form paper.

Use the single-sheet path (top feed) for graphics or charts.

! If you have paper in the paper path, be sure to remove it

before installing rear-feed paper.

1 Lock Lever

2 Upper Tractor Cover

3 Pins

4 Lower Tractor Cover

32T-26.eps

1 Move the paper lever to the position marked "REAR."

32T-11.eps
2 Grasp the tabs lift off the paper separator.

3 Pull up on the lock levers and open the tractor covers.

Then, move the right tractor to fit the width of the paper.

32T-27.eps

4 Place the first two holes in the paper over the tractor pins

on either side. Close the tractor covers.

32T-29.eps

5 Move the left tractor to align the edge of the paper with

the appropriate reference mark (1). Then, push back the

lock lever.

32T-29A.eps

6 Adjust the position of the right tractor to center the holes

in the paper on the pins. Then, push back the right lock

lever.

32T-29.eps

7 Install the paper separator. Place the wire guide (1) on the

pull-up roller assembly (2).

32T-31.eps

8 Press FF/LOAD. The paper feeds into the printer.

! The factory default setting for the Top of Form (where

the printing should begin) is one inch down from the top

of the page. To change the setting, see "Using Your
Printer, Top of Form (TOF)."

Top Feed (Single Sheets)

Use the single-sheet path for letterhead stationery, memos,

and individual envelopes.

! If you have continuous-form paper in the path, press

PARK to remove it before loading single sheets.

1 Make sure the printer is on and deselected (SEL light off).

2 Place the paper lever in the position marked "TOP."

32T-12.eps

3 Open the carriage cover. Raise the paper separator to the
single-sheet position.

4 Make sure the wire feed guide (1) is secured in the sheet

guide.

5 Adjust the paper feed guides (1) for the width of the paper.

Place a sheet of paper in the separator. The paper will feed

into the printer.

32T-15.eps

If I could be of further assistance, let me know. If this helps or solves the issue, please rate it and give a testimonial for my response. Happy New Year!

Thanks, Joe


I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/joe_8b8c2cd6ce148309

You are replacing old switch-receptacle device.
New device also has switch and receptacle.
You want switch to control light, but not receptacle.
You want receptacle 'hot' all the time.

You have 2 cables that enter box.
Each cable has white, black and ground wires.
Ground wires are twisted together and attached to green ground screws and not discussed more.

Screws on new device:
Side 1 of device: New device has dark screw(s) or brass screws on one side ... these screws are connected together by brass plate. This side is the Hot side of device.

Side 2 of device: Other side has 2 separate and unconnected screws. These screws are not connected in any way. Each of the 2 disconnected screws sits opposite the switch and opposite the plug.

Cables.
One cable comes from breaker box. This cable has a Hot and Neutral wire. The Hot is black. Neutral is white.
The other cable goes to Load (light). Black supplies power to Load (light), and white connects to Neutral.
If you are uncertain which is which, testing is shown below.

Connect the device:
Side 1 of device: Black Hot goes to dark colored screw(s) that are connected by brass plate. (This is only wire connected to this side of device)
Side 2 of device: Black that goes to Load (light) connects to screw that sits opposite the switch.
Side 2 of device: White Neutral connects to screw that sits opposite the plug

One wire is left .. the white from light. This white wire connects to white Neutral wire. Since white neutral is already connected to device, look on back of device to see if there is a quick-connect hole for you to shove wire into back of device. If device doesn't have quick-connect, then twist white wires together, and add a short jumper wire to device, and then all the whites are connected to neutral. Circuit is complete.

How to test for Hot and Neutral
Separate wires.
Turn on power.
Test each wire to bare ground.
Tester lights up on hot wire.
Now test hot wire to other wires.
Tester lights up on neutral

If I understand correctly, you are replacing a single switch that has two wires.
You want to install a switch/plug-gfci similar to one shown below.

You are working on wires inside a box:
To wire this kind of device you need at least 2 cables entering the box.
Each cable has a black-white-ground wire.
Cable 1) One cable comes from breaker box. This is the Hot cable
Hot cable has black-hot-from-breaker & white-neutral-from-breaker

Cable 2) One cable goes to the Load (light, fan motor). This wire is controlled by the switch. This is the Load cable
Load cable has black-to-load & white-to-load.



Leviton combo GFCI and Switch
There are 2 screws on either side of switch
There are 2 screws to either side of plug
There are two wires on back of device

2 screws on either side of switch: there is a brass-colored screw and silver-colored screw.
Black-hot-from-breaker connects to brass colored screw on side of switch
White-neutral-from-breaker connects to silver colored screw on side of switch

2 black wires on back of device
Black-to-load connects to black wire on same side of switch as brass-colored screws
White-to-load connects to black wire on same side of switch as silver-colored screws

2 screws on either side of plug
These screws are used when your box is a 'junction' box that feeds wires forward to another box ... for example you have 4 receptacles in a room, the cable enters first box and then goes to the next box and to the next box. Suppose your switch was one of the boxes. Wire arrives from a previous box (this is the Hot cable, every box has 1 Hot cable). Your switch box sends one cable to the Load (light, fan etc), but it also sends another cable to the next box which has a receptacle or another switch.
If your box has a third cable that feeds forward to other boxes, then the screws on either side of plug are used. The black-to-next-box goes to brass screw. The white-to-next-box connects to silver screw.
And all further boxes and devices are protected by the GFCI device.

If you need more information, please answer back and I will help.