I was able to light and use the water heater last night. But I shut the unit off over night. I tried to re-light the water heater this morning and I get no red (fault) light and the unit does not come on. The water from the hot side of the sink is not hot. The gas is on, and the stove lights fine. I checked that all connections are good and they seem to be. I am getting no gas flow and no spark, no flame, and no hot water. Please help.
Copy following link for possible troubleshoot resources:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Atwood-water-heater-resources.html
Might want to call service technician instead of messing with gas appliance.
Or sent to service center.
Install 20 gallon under counter electric water heater and connect to 120Volt... 1500 watt element will heat water pretty quickly. To have more hot available, turn up water heater thermostat, then that will give 2 showers because more cold will be added to very hot water, thereby stretching amount of available hot..
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-install-under-counter-water-heater.html
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SOURCE: Bosch tankless GWH 1600 H NG won't always ignite
The manual says to hold a match near the pilot while the ignitor is
trying. It says that if the unit lights the pilot orifice may be dirty
or clogged. Then the manual says to check
the voltage on the igniter. It should be 1.3 volts DC minimum if it is not means the electronic control box is defective.
Let me know the status ...Kevin
SOURCE: I have a G6A-7E electronic ignite water heater.
Make sure propane is on and getting to your stove burners ok, first, then try switching it back on. If it fails to ignite, shut switch off and try a couple of times, if still no ignition, get back to me.
SOURCE: the electronic ignition on a gas water heater will
You won't see any red glow until the burner ignites and burns for a while. Its only an ignitor and flame sensor, not a glow plug style.The ignitor has to provide spark for gas to ignite, then it also senses the flame and keeps gas flow coming. What exactly is happening when you turn it to on?
SOURCE: My atwood water heater has spark and will light
If you see a little short round (cut-out)diode-like piece inside a clear plastic sleeve that runs from wiring to thermostat terminal,(usually right under pressure relief valve) remove it from the thermostat terminal, as well as wiring from heater (take it right out of the circuit) and connect that wire directly to the spade connector where it was attached at thermostat, and now try it. They are a one shot cut-out, and if it went, no power gets to the system and by removing it, you will see if it's the problem or not. They are a safety device that if for some reason you get too large of a flame from water heater, and it feels the flame/heat, it blows and cuts off power. Should be replaced when you get a chance, but at least you'll know what the problem is. Let me know if that works please.
SOURCE: I am currently on an
Here is the manual that should assist you in troubleshooting: THERMAL CUT-OFF DEVICE Current Atwood direct ignition water heaters are equipped with a thermal cut-off device. This device is located on the incoming power wire and is connected to the thermostat. The thermal cut-off is designed to permanently break circuit and shut down the water heater before excessive heat can cause damage due to obstructions in the main burner tube or flue tube caused by spiders or mud wasps. These obstructions can cause the main burner flame to burn outside the main burner tube. When the flame or the heat from the flame
http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/atwoodwaterheater.pdf
Start reading on page 18 of the manual for your hot water heater.
Keel this in mind.... there is a one time thermal cut off:
contacts the thermal cut-off, the circuit will open.
Most likely either an overheat condition or a flue problem. It can even be a flame sensor. The schematics in the Service Manual are pretty easy to follow. Make note of the Brown wire on the bottom of the main board to pin 3 at the top of the board. It passes through the 140 deg thermostat and the thermal cut off. That wire should read continuity top to bottom. If not the most likely suspect is the thermal cut off.
It can also be a flame and spark sensor problem. AND the Eco switch can be open when it should be closed. (Red wire)
Lastly... the remote switch itself can cause this.
Kelly
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