Makes one set of cubes,fills back up with water they freeze but never come out again
Replace the icemaker
SOURCE: The water continues to drip after the ice cube maker is full.
Sounds like the water fill solenoid valve is leaking by. You will have to change that solenoid valve if the water continues to drip into the ice maker tray after a normal fill cycle. http://www.partselect.com/AdvancedModelSearch.aspx?ModelNum=JCD2295HES&mfgModelNum=JCD2295HES&fkMfgID=1
SOURCE: Ice maker not filling & making ice cubes
First give me the entire model # on the sticker from the inside of the fridge and I can definitely help you with this. Let's solve it before you rate it.
SOURCE: LG ice maker only making two ice cubes at a time
Colenoid in the ice dispenser may be clogged or have a small amount of trash in it. Is there a filter on before the fridge (just after the ice maker shutoff)?
SOURCE: Bosch Side by Side, top shelves dont freeze food, bottom does
majority of refrigerators today are equipped with an automatic icemaker. The water valve supplying the icemaker is a key component of the icemaking system, and it should be the first thing you check if the icemaker's performance is erratic or if the icemaker stops working. When the icemaker calls for ice, its switch closes an electrical circuit and energizes the solenoid-operated water valve. This allows water to flow through the valve and into the ice cube tray. The water is frozen into cubes, and the cubes are dumped into the ice bin. As time passes, strange things may happen to the refrigerator's icemaking capability. The cubes may be small or there may be a solid chunk of ice instead of individual cubes. It's also possible that the icemaker will stop working. These are all signs of a malfunctioning water valve. The valve is equipped with a screen on its inlet to remove minerals and sediments in the water supply. Over time, minerals and sediment build up on the screen and restrict flow through the valve, or even block it completely. Minerals that make it through the screen can cause the valve to stick in the open position, overfilling the ice cube tray in the process. This is a common problem in areas with hard water, but it can happen just about anywhere. Another malfunction that will cause the icemaker to stop working is a break in the solenoid coil winding. This is known as an open coil. The coil winding generates a magnetic field as current passes through it, and this magnetic field opens the plunger valve that controls water flow. A break in the coil winding stops current flow and this prevents the valve from operating. Test And Inspect The icemaker's valve is easy to inspect and test. First, gently pull the refrigerator away from the wall, and unplug it. Turn off the water supply to the icemaker by closing the shut-off valve in the copper waterline leading to the valve (Fig. 1). Use a screwdriver or nutdriver to remove the rear lower access panel from the refrigerator's back. Next, remove the fill tubing from the water valve. Use a wrench to loosen the flare nut on the brass fitting on the inlet side of the valve (above). Place a container under the valve to catch the small amount of water that will spill from the valve and tubing. Now use a screwdriver or a nutdriver to remove the screw holding the valve's mounting bracket to the refrigerator cabinet (Fig. 2). Pull the valve out of the compartment and remove the tube on the valve's outlet. Then, remove the solenoid's electrical contacts (Fig. 3).
Water dispensing solenoid is bad. You need to replace the solenoid valve. This typically is independent of the ice maker.
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