Question about Elna Sewing Machines
The arm wants to stay to the right but does go to center for straight stitch. I you move it to left, it goes to the right on the first stitch but won't return left. It hasn't been used for a long time.
The machine's needle arm is not swinging left and right correctly, do I understand your problem correctly? I assume that you have the stitch selector set to zig zag, stitch length dial to 2 (green zone on the dial) and stitch width set to 4 to select a zig zag stitch. Needle up, push the needle bar to the right of the machine. Push above the needle thumb screw, dont push onto the needle itself. Pull the bar to the right, then release. It should return smoothly to the middle position. If you set the width to four and push the needle bar to the right, there is a spring that returns it to the middle, if this is not happening then good chance the needle bar cradle is seized up and the spring cant move it. You will need to take off the top of the machine and get some oil down the needle bar into the bearings, then apply pressure to the side of the needle bar, push to the right side to free up the bar movement. triflow oil is best and a means to deliver a drop or two down deep inside. I dabbed oil onto the needle bar with cotton swap stick on my machine that had this problem. You should be able to see a horizontal metal tube down there above the needle, the needle bar slides back and forwards on this but machines left can seize up due to dust, and dry old oil forming gunk on the moving parts. you need to lubricate and get it sliding freely again, you should be able to free it up with a bit of time, oil and gentle movement. mine took a couple of days to get it moving freely fully, it would give it a wiggle, dab of triflow oil, leave it, then have another go. I got triflow from a bicycle eshop on ebay, great stuff. Hope this helps you with your Carina, if not, post again and I'll try to help
Posted on May 31, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: How do I change the stiches?
You can do all of these stitches by using different combinations of your stitch selector, stitch width and stitch feed knobs, for instance, on the panel I can see on your machine:
Stitches 1, 2 & 3 are straight stitches, centered, left and right. Really basic stuff, not different stitches at all. 4,5,6,7 & 8 are zig-zag stitches of different widths. 9 is the widest zig-zag (no. 8) on a finer stitch length, etc...
I think you should try and get an instruction manual for your machine. After a lengthy search of my usual manual sources, I've determined that that this may not be so easy. I think you should contact White on their 800 number and let them try and help you... 1-800-331-3164.
If you found this helpful, please vote generously as I receive nothing other than acknowledgement for my time.
Posted on Mar 08, 2008
SOURCE: Zigzag stitch not right.
This is an issue entirely related to the timing of the hook to the needle.
What model is your machine, top loading or front loading bobbin ?
The correct passage of the hook behind the needle, is generally very similar for either type of bobbin...adjustment requires the ability to disengage the shaft movement tying the top (needle) and bottom (hook) so that each may move separately and the small adjustment be made.
As the needle rises from the lowest position approx 1.2mm, the tip of the hook should be at the point of beginning to pass behind the needle, to pick up the bobbin thread, when in wide zig zag and at the widest and furthest travel of the hook........there is a shallow "groove" in the back of the needle just above the eye to allow a very close pass by the hook as it whizzes around.
If the hook travels clockwise, the furthest needle position is when the ZZ is in the right stitch position, so conversely, if the motion is anti-clockwise, the left needle position is the one to set.
The method of releasing the two shafts from each other will depend on the machine model, typically there are grub screws on the bottom shaft near the drive belt, or connected to the handwheel at the top........generally 2 screws at 60 degree offset in either case.
Re-timing is not especially difficult, but does require knowledge of the screws to aim for, hence the model is necessary info.....
...If you want any more help with this, just post back here with a photo of the machine (< 150kb) , or, drop a line through the "Contact Us" page at www.bargainbox.com.au and remind me of the posting.
Posted on Jun 01, 2008
When was the machine last serviced by a sewing machine tech? It could be old lubricant and dust have gummed up the gears.
Carefully warm the area with a hair dryer to see if this will loosen up the selector.
If the problem continues, the machine will need to go into the shop.
Expect the bench charge to start at about $80 just to do a routine cleaning and lubricating.
Posted on Mar 18, 2010
it sounds like you knocked the machine out of time & it will have to be taken to a
sewing machine shop to be retimed
Posted on Apr 27, 2012
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