Hydraulic jack wont move.

Presume it a hydraulic jack. Most are sealed, some of the more expensive types will have a valve, usually hidden somewhere.
But what you need to look for first is where it is leaking from.
If it has lost fluid chances are one of the seals have blown.

Hi. Most like problem is clogged Hydraulic fluid filter, or bad Hydraulic pump. Hope this helps.

place the trolley jack under the front cross member . (The big bit that connects the side frames under the sump). Lift as high as possible and place the jack stands under the chassis ( moulded rails ) where the sub-frame meets . Then place the trolley jack under the rear diff and lift as high as possible Place the jack stands under the chassis at the front of the springs or track rods By using these positions you will have the cabin securely jacked up with all the wheels free to remove or to work on. Before going under try rocking the vehicle hard to ensure that it will not move off the stands.

if you don't have an engine hoist you'll need a couple of hydraulic jacks. loosen the bolt that bolt the engine to the mounts. then raise the engine with the hydraulic jacks. once you have just enough clearance to get your hands and tools into the bad mount remove it. put in the new one. slowly lower the engine back into place with your hydraulic jacks and tighten then engine back down to the motor mount. be careful the engine doesn't shift while it's suspended on the jacks one it's dangerous and 2 it will make it harder to realign the engine when your lowering it back onto the mounts

This will need to be re-initialized. your best bet is to visit you local ford dealer.

Lifting

The following instructions must be carried out before raising the vehicle off the ground.

• Use a solid level ground surface.
• Apply hand brake.
• Select 'P' on automatic gearbox selector.

Note: If the propeller shafts are to be removed, reference must be made to the relevant operation. To avoid damage occurring to the under body components of the vehicle the following jacking procedures must be adhered to.

DO NOT POSITION JACKS OR AXLE STANDS UNDER THE FOLLOWING COMPONENTS:

• Body structure other than approved jacking points
• Bumpers
• Fuel lines
• Fuel tank
• Brake lines
• Front or rear suspension arms
• Transfer box
• Steering linkage
• Front or rear differential units
• Engine sump
• Automatic gearbox

NOTE: For certain repair operations, it may be necessary to support the engine under the sump. In this case, a block of hardwood or a rubber block should be positioned on the jack lifting cup to protect sump. Vehicle jack
The jack provided with the vehicle is only intended for use in an emergency, for changing a tyre. DO NOT use the jack for any other purpose. Refer to Owner's Handbook for vehicle jack location points and procedure. Never work under a vehicle supported solely by the vehicle jack.

Hydraulic jack
A hydraulic jack with a minimum 1500 kg, (3,300 lbs) load capacity must be used.

WARNING: Do not commence work on the underside of the vehicle until suitable axle stands have been placed in their correct position. Always chock the wheels when jacking. The handbrake may be ineffective when the wheels are off the ground. Raising and supporting the vehicle
To assist in raising the vehicle, jacking points are provided as shown in the following illustrations.

Raising the front of the vehicle
Apply handbrake, select 'P' on automatic gearbox selector and chock rear wheels.
Axle stand positions - front

Raise vehicle to enable axle stands to be positioned under, either, the front sub-frame, or the recommended customer jacking points.

CAUTION: Place a piece of hardwood or a rubber block between each axle stand and the jacking point to avoid damaging the body / component. If the propeller shafts are to be removed, select NEUTRAL in the main gearbox.
Carefully lower jack until vehicle sits securely on axle stands.

WARNING: Always support the vehicle on axle stands when using a jack.
Before commencing work on underside of vehicle re-check security of vehicle on stands.

Reverse procedure when removing vehicle from stands.

Raising the rear of the vehicle
Select 'P' on automatic gearbox selector and chock front wheels.

WARNING: Always chock the front wheels when jacking the rear of the vehicle.
Axle stand positions - rear

Raise rear of vehicle to enable axle stands to be positioned under the rear sub-frame. Alternatively, the axle stands may be positioned under, either, the recommended customer jacking points or the front mounting points of the rear sub-frame.

CAUTION: Place a piece of hardwood or a rubber block between each axle stand and the jacking point to avoid damaging the body / component. If any damage occurs to the washers on the front mounting points of the rear sub-frame, then the washers must be replaced. Carefully lower jack until vehicle sits securely on axle stands.

WARNING: Always support the vehicle on axle stands when using a jack. Before commencing work on underside of vehicle re-check security of vehicle on stands.

Reverse procedure when removing vehicle from stands.

Wheel-free lift
The following warning must be read before attempting to lift the vehicle.

WARNING: The vehicle cannot be supported safely in a wheel-free condition using the wheel-free facility of a four post ramp, and under no circumstances must this method be employedA wheel free condition may only be achieved on a four post ramp by raising each end of the vehicle and positioning axle stands beneath the recommended customer jacking points.

CAUTION: Place a piece of hardwood or a rubber block between each axle stand and the jacking point to avoid damaging any components. If the propeller shafts are to be removed, select NEUTRAL in the main gearbox. WARNING: The front and rear suspension lower arms must NOT be used as lifting / jacking points. Alternatively, support the vehicle on an approved two post lift with the arms of the lift beneath the recommended customer jacking points.

CAUTION: Place a piece of hardwood or a rubber block between the lifting equipment and the jacking points to avoid damaging any components. If the propeller shafts are to be removed, select NEUTRAL in the main gearbox.

Engine OFF, raise drive wheels and check if transmission is locked

Replace Page 1 of 2
u can vist auto zone .com for more info here to help Shaun

Before any service is performed, carefully check the following:

• Be sure the vehicle is properly centered and secured on stands or a hoist.
• If the vehicle has antilock brakes, depressurize the system according to the procedures given in the service manual.
• Disconnect the battery ground cable.
• Front brake pad replacement begins with removing brake fluid from the master cylinder reservoir. If this is not done, the fluid could overflow and spill when the pistons are forced back into the caliper bore, possibly damaging the painted surfaces.
• Replace the cover.
• Discard old brake fluid.

• Raise the car. Make sure it is safely positioned on the lift.
• If you don't have a lift, use a jack and jack stands.
• A handle on the jack is moved up and down to raise part of a vehicle and a valve is turned to release the hydraulic pressure in the jack to lower the part. At the end of the jack is a lifting pad.
• The pad must be positioned under an area of the vehicle's frame or at one of the manufacturer's recommended lift points.
• Never place the pad under the floorpan or under steering and suspension components, because they can easily be damaged by the weight of the vehicle.
• Always position the jack so that the wheels of the vehicle can roll as the vehicle is being raised.
• Never use a lift or jack to move something heavier than it is designed for. Always check the rating before using a lift or jack. If a jack is rated for 2 tons, do not attempt to use it for a job that requires a 5-ton jack. It is dangerous for you and the vehicle.
• Safety stands, also called jack stands, are supports of various heights that sit on the floor. They are placed under a sturdy chassis member, such as the frame or axle housing, to support the vehicle.
• Once the safety stands are in position, the hydraulic pressure in the jack should be slowly released until the weight of the vehicle is on the stands. Like jacks, jack stands also have a capacity rating. Always use the correct rating of jack stand.
• Never move under a vehicle when it is supported by only a hydraulic jack. Rest the vehicle on the safety stands before moving under the vehicle.
• The jack should be removed after the jack stands are set in place.
• This eliminates a hazard, such as a jack handle sticking out into a walkway. A jack handle that is bumped or kicked can cause a tripping accident or cause the vehicle to fall.
• If you use support stands on asphalt, put a piece of thick plywood or a steel plate under the stands.
• Remove its wheel assemblies.

• Inspect the brake assembly.
• Look for signs of fluid leaks, broken or cracked lines, or a damaged break rotor. If a problem is found, correct it before installing the new brake pads.

• Loosen the bolts and remove the pad locator pins.
• During servicing, grease, oil, brake fluid, or any other foreign material must be kept off the brake linings, caliper, surfaces of the disc, and external surfaces of the hub. Handle the brake disc and caliper in such a way as to avoid deformation of the disc and nicking or scratching of the brake linings.
  
  
  
• Lift and rotate the caliper assembly from the rotor.

• Remove the brake pads from the caliper assembly.

• Fasten a piece of wire to the car's frame and support the caliper with the wire.
• When a hydraulic hose is disconnected, plug it to prevent any foreign material from entering.

• Check the condition of the locating pin insulators and sleeves.

Art courtesy of Delmar - Thomson Learning.

• Place a piece of wood over the caliper's piston and install a C-clamp over the wood and caliper.
• Tighten the clamp to force the piston back into its bore.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the gearshift lever assembly from the control housing.
3. Cover the opening in the control housing with a cloth to prevent dirt from falling into the unit.
4. Raise the vehicle and support it safely.
5. On 2WD vehicles, matchmark the driveshaft to the rear axle flange. Position a drain pan under the tailend of the transmission. Remove the driveshaft-to-rear axle flange fasteners and pull the driveshaft rearward to disconnect it from the transmission.
6. Disconnect the clutch hydraulic line a the clutch housing. Plug the lines.
7. Disconnect the speedometer from the transfer case/extension housing.
8. Disconnect the starter motor, back-up lamp and, if equipped, neutral sensing switch harness connector.
9. Place a wood block on a service jack and position the jack under the engine oil pan.
10. On 4WD vehicles, remove the transfer case from the vehicle.
11. Remove the starter motor.
12. Position a transmission jack, under the transmission.
13. Remove the transmission-to-engine retaining bolts and washers.
14. Remove the nuts and bolts attaching the transmission mount and damper to the crossmember.
15. Remove the nuts and bolts attaching the crossmember to the frame side rails and remove the crossmember.
16. Lower the engine jack slightly to angle the transmission assembly. Work the clutch housing off the locating dowels and slide the clutch housing and the transmission rearward until the input shaft clears the clutch disc.
17. Lower the transmission jack and remove the transmission from the vehicle.

To install:

1. Check that the mating surfaces of the clutch housing, engine rear and dowel holes are free of burrs, dirt and paint.
2. Place the transmission on the transmission jack. Position the transmission under the vehicle, then raise it into position. Align the input shaft splines with the clutch disc splines and work the transmission forward into the locating dowels.
3. Install the transmission-to-engine retaining bolts and washers. Tighten the retaining bolts to specifications. Remove the transmission jack.
4. Install the starter motor. Tighten the attaching nuts.
5. Raise the engine and install the rear crossmember, insulator and damper and attaching nuts and bolts. Tighten and torque the bolts to specification.
6. On 4WD vehicles, install the transfer case.
7. On 2WD vehicles, insert the driveshaft into the transmission extension housing and install the center bearing attaching nuts, washers and lockwashers. Connect the driveshaft to the rear axle drive flange.
8. Connect the starter motor, back-up lamp and, if equipped, neutral sensing switch connectors.
9. Connect the hydraulic clutch line and bleed the system.
10. Install the speedometer cable.
11. Check and adjust the fluid level.
12. Lower the vehicle.
13. Install the gearshift lever assembly. Install the boot cover and bolts.
14. Reconnect the negative battery cable.
15. Check for proper shifting and operation of the transmission.

The above was pulled frrom:
http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c152800391da

hope this helps

Hi. I guess it's already sitting in place. The phone jacks are usually in the back in a place only a design engineer would pick. I am not trying to be anything but helpfull, but I'm not kidding. You have to move the copier away from everything else where you can really look.

Or you bought a model without that feature, probably without being told about that.

That is really frustrating, I'm going fishing, or "casting" as my distractors say. Good luck.