CHANGE WATER PUMP IMPELLER FOR EVINRUDE OUTBOARD MOD# E28ESLETD

It may look easy in the book but there are a few things that can go out. Such as the key/roll pin that drives the impeller can slip out on assembly. Water tube out of hole or damaged OR pieces of old impeller in it depending on why you needed to replace it. There are more but if you are not a trained tech it may be time to find one.

Check pump housing and plate for wear,make sure aluminium housing not corroded under plate. Suggest fitting electric drill to drive shaft and emerse lower unit in bucket of water.make sure drill doesn't get wet.is motor going into gear,maybe splines are rusted off in crankshaft,could also have holes in inner exhaust side plate

Page 108http://marine.honda.com/pdf/manuals/31ZW5600.pdf

Take the cowling off. Also drop the foot. There wil be a stainless linkage rod that runs the length of the motor that you will have undo to drop the foot. The water impeller will be inside a stainless casing that you will have to disassemble.

have a problem , check impeller pump

have you changed the impeller inside the lower unit.

There is copper pipe to redirect water up into the engine.

When you replaced the impeller make the copper pipe is insert onto the engine.

Impeller? or Propeller? Propeller is just a nut with a carter key holding it on.

Impeller, or water pump? It isnt too bad. You have to take the lower uint off. There is a roll pin in the linkage going to the forward/reverse mechanizm. Then take out the bolts and drop it down. It has a shaft that comes with it out of the engine. Then the water pump is bolted on that shaft. Check the seals under the pump and the oil in the gearbox for water. Mine was bad and pumped water into the gearbox and oil up and out. Then froze and busted.

Okay this is on total memory. The shift shaft for a lot of those engines goes right up through the pilot shaft and exits just in front of the block under the carburetor(s). You will see the **** linkage arm connected to this shaft sometimes it's double nutted. See if you can slide the lower unit back up to the housing and put a bolt in it to hold then undue the shift shaft linkage, Remove the bolt and drop the lower unit. Be careful of the water tubes and check make sure the rubber grommets are in place in the pump housing not on the tubes. Clean up the pump housing and install the new impeller kit.
Put the impeller down the shaft on top of the impeller plate, lightly grease the inside of the housing the impeller plate and impeller. Then lower the pump housing down to the impeller while turning the drive shaft clockwise lightly push down on the impeller housing. This will fold the impeller blades all in the correct position and provide lubrication to the pump until the water gets into the pump. To make life easier re-grease the drive shaft spline and the water tube grommets this will ad ease in reinstalling the lower unit. be careful to make sure you thread the drive shaft, water tubes and shift shaft all in at the same time. After installation you may find you need to adjust the **** linkage.

I could possibly give you a better explanation if I knew the horse power of the outboard. However hear is what happens to most "tiller" operated outboards. Water pumps are made from a pliable soft rubber which by the way needs water to lubricate it even if you just crank it over to check something, or fire it up for a few seconds on a dry impeller will destroy it. Most often a few pieces will fly off and enter the water cooling system and then lodge in one of the small passage ways blocking water flow. When a new impeller is installed the engine runs pumps water and overheats.