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Homelite AP 125 two stroke motor will not start after replacing fuel lines. There is fuel coming into the carb and into the cylinder as well. Motor will not attempt to start. Spark plug is new and has spark. Choke functions fine. Fuel mixture 50:1 fresh batch. Motor ran fine before replacing gas lines. Ran out of options to get running.. Any solutions...
Re: Homelite AP 125 two stroke motor will not start after...
If you have a two line fuel system make sure the lines didn't get crossed. If they are you could still get gas to the cylinder but not enough. I hope this will of some help to you. Donnyb60
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fuel goes in at connector then to fuel pump then to carbs ! remove connector off fuel line and prime fuel up so you know you got fuel ! then reconnect to engine and prime up again till you see filter filling and bulb should harden , then remove a drain screw from carb bowl and prime again and see if fuel comes out of all carb drains ! if yes then start engine with or in water with kill lanyard on if ok then good ! not then check sparks on all plugs putting them against the head for earth and crank to check ! if ok then i would remove carbs and clean the jets etc ! compressions 100psi or more on all cylinders ! less means recon pistons etc !
the carb and fuel lines will most likely need repair, i would mix a little extra 2 stroke oil in the gas on the first run, and a few drops 2 stroke oil in the cylinder is a good idea..oh and you might want to check the spark arrester on the muffler .. jay
Need to do a spark test to ensure all cylinders are firing but the carb may need to be cleaned. Yamaha carbs have smaller fuel/air holes so they get clogged easier than others.
Check and make sure the exhaust outlet is totally open. If it has a metal gauze screen slide it out and wash with carby cleaner and replace.
Blocked exhausts are common problem in 2 stroke engines because users run the motor too slow and it ( + oily residue) carbons up the exhaust. With a blocked exhaust, usually the moror will start and idle pretty ok but will screw up when you try to run at full revs.
In Australia we get mud wasps building nests in there - a quick poke out of the mud and she's running full throttle again.
ps. Don't fiddle with the 2 mixture screws - unless your know what you are doing. You will only make it worse!!.
usual if the pump is dry you need to try bleed get some water to the pump. either pouring some in the lift pipe some pumps have a bleed screw to pour into to get it pumping. if it still wont could be the fins in the pump that are not working proper
Check your fuel lines for cracks it may be sucking air ,also make sure the fuel filter is still attached since they like to come off in the tank and then dirt gets in the carb,if thats the case replace your fuel lines and filter ,replace with fresh fuel (correct mixture ratio is a must). You may want to take the carb apart and clean out the small internal screen it has and look for any cracks in the diaphrams.You should also check your exhaust to make sure its clear of carbon build up.I repair saws , trimmers and many other 2 strokes and find most of the time its bad fuel lines and carbon in the exhaust port,but also alot of times I find damaged pistons and scored cylinders with very little compression.Good luck to you.
If one of those fail.......= Non-Starting 4-Stroke!
Fixes-
Fuel:
You are either getting too much, or too little. Too much = Carb.
Too little = Carb. Therefore, tear down the Carb (COMPLETELY-Careful!) and clean it up.
Electrical:
Grounding out the System (Kill Switches)
Battery-> Ignition-> Starter.
Magneto->Plug Wire->Plug (Check 'em all!)
For some reason the engine is flooded. To make it start do the following: turn the choke off, hold the throttle wide open and crank it until it starts.Do not push the primer bulb first. It already has more fuel than it can burn. It will smoke more than usual until it burns out the excess fuel. You may also have a carb problem but this should allow the engine to start so it can be diagnosed.
Do you have the H and L adjuster screws on the carb? If so, then normally I'd back out a little bit on the L (low speed side of carb) The instructions for adjusting carbs, years ago, on 2-stroke, say to back out on the L when motor will not rapidly rev up. Most 2-stroke carbs have these 2-jets. The L is for gas to pass to motor with butterfly throttle plate closed. When opening throttle plate, there is a sudden rush of air, at first, and this L adjustment is allowing enough gas to pass for motor to begin to rev. up. Then the gas will also flow through another small port H, usually a small brass tube in the venture area (smallest diameter section of carb). You adjust the H with the throttle wide open, motor revved up. Turn either in or out slightly till highest RPMS reached, motor smooth and fast, then turn H out about 1/4 turn. The idea is to run motor slightly rich for highest HP when under load (cutting). Hope this helps
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