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Jeffrey Bice Posted on May 14, 2013
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Homelite ut104552 pumps bar oil in piston

I know this is an old saw but has always worked great. I have taken it apart cleaned every thing and made sure the chain oil hole is clear and open and made sure all oil lines are clean and no leaks, it has good compression in the piston but keeps pumping bar oil into the piston and locks it up when I try to start it. I take out the spark plug, drain oil in cylinder and can turn it over again till I put the plug back in again and same thing happens. Is this fixable.

1 Answer

Andrew White

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  • Master 2,239 Answers
  • Posted on May 30, 2013
Andrew White
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Joined: Dec 08, 2010
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The saw you have must have a combined crankcase/oil tank, they will be seperated via a gasket, if this gasket is leaking then oil from the oil tank can and will enter the bottom of the crankcase.

1 Related Answer

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Feb 14, 2009

SOURCE: my 455 rancher chain saw is not using her chain oil

Replace the oil pump..Or just try to clean it out but I have been through this and it worked for about ten minutes and I ended up just replacing the pump and works fine now. They are not very expensive (35.00-40.00) and only takes about ten minutes. Get a beer and a table or the tail gate of you truck should be fine. Take off the side cover remove the bar and chain. Clean everything up... air compressor is best a paint brush and rag works good if you do not have a air compressor. Take the top plastic cover (three screws on top of the saw). Pull the spark plug and feed a piece of rope into the cylinder. This will bind up saw so you can remove the clutch. I use a pull start rope from my old lawn mower and keep it in my saw box for this reason. This size and kind of rope seems to work best. Now you need to remove the clutch. There is an arrow on the clutch that tells you which way to turn it to get it off. This can sometimes be tricky but don't give up. I'm sure there is a tool for this and I keep saying that I'm going to make something. I use the handle of a good strong pair of pliers and turn the plier with a pair of vice grips. When you see the clutch you'll figure out something to use to loosen it and spin it off. Un-spin the clutch and remove the clutch drum by just sliding it off the spindle. Be careful because there is a bushing with needle bearings. The bearings are in there pretty good and wont just fall out. If you want to replace that you can 14.00 or so. There is also a plastic drive gear for the pump that just lifts out , replace it too 6.00 or so. Take off the metal cover I think it's just one screw. When you remove the cover you may see a lot of saw dust and oil all packed inside. If you have an air compressor just blow it all out. The oil pump is right there and is simply removed with one screw. clean every thing up put the new pump in put everything back together and you should be back in business.

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Related Questions:

0helpful
1answer

Bar oil in piston

HI
you may have broken or worn piston oil rings or damage piston on the inside diameter
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Unit runs great. I beleive I am getting too much bar oil from the chainsaw. There is bar oil dripping from under the cover where the bar connects to the unit. Is there an adjustment for this? I have...

There is no control on how much oil is sent to the chain.
You should be using about a tank of oil to a tank of Gas
Things to check Are you using Chain and bar oil or regular oil
Chain and bar oil is thicker and has additives to make the oil stickier. regular oil is thinner and tends to run out of the saw when you are not using it.
If you are using correct oil and using to much sounds like the oil pump needs to be replaced
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Chain saw frozen, removed cord starter the engine wont budge even with a large screwdriver in the cooling vanes, a poulan

some one ran it with out oil pull spark plug spray in some wd-40 let sit for a few days then try again if it dosent move its scrape
1helpful
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Hi have a homelite ZR10580 chainsaw thats seems to be sending out too much chain oil but I don't see any adjustment for this?

1st. are you using the saw in a hot environment? warm chain oil will run easier than cold.
2nd. are all parts clean? remove the guard, chain and bar, clean the oil holes and contct points to reduce airlocks and allow oil to flow as it should.
3. Which oil are you using? I found Texaco Clingtex oil behaves well in all enviroments.
4. Have the oil pump checked... the seals on these saws arn't great and after a few years they can peish and allow too much oil through.
hope this helps.
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The 330 homelite chain saw bar is not getting oil.

If the pump is a piston type, there must be valves on both sides of the pump to control the flow of oil in one direction. The one in the tank is called is called a 'duck-bill' valve and may be mal-functioning. Can you move the diaphragm by hand to see if it pumps anything? Did you run the engine without the bar and chain attached to make sure the bar oil-ports were not choked up. Oil should ooze out of the engine side port when running. Hope some of this helps!
Apr 10, 2010 • Garden
2helpful
1answer

Ryobi chainsaw pcn4040 - oil not being pumped onto chain, covers have been removed, all sawdust blown out. Oil leaks out under gravity slowly, but when the saw is running no oil is being pumped out. Is...

C. Both A and B. Is it the original bar? Has it ever worked with this bar? Yes continue, no reply below (first). Is there an oiler adjustment?
I know you did this, I have OCD. Good on you for checking.
Oil System Plugged:
  1. Remove the clutch cover, bar, and chain, clean the bar groove, any holes and passages on the rear of the bar (both sides, consider rotating the bar), if equipped with a sprocket nose ensure it rotates easily at least one complete revolution. Clean the saw oiler hole and channel. Insert a blunted, hooked piece of wire through the oil filler hole and pull the hose in the oil tank out. Pay attention to the screen or filter on the free end (clean or replace, difficult to determine serviceability). Start the saw and see if it oils when revved up (oozes down side of saw). If yes reassemble your saw. If no, continue with 2.
  2. Work your way through the linkage (use IPL to identify components and locations) cleaning and replacing any defective parts as you go. Carefully check the hoses for cracks especially at bends and connections. If equipped with an oil pump it is usually behind the clutch (clutch is a left handed thread). Please make extensive notes & some digital pictures will help during reassembly.
If it does not oil on completion of 1 it is most likely a bad oiler or worm gear (see IPL).

I did not see a match to your model. If you can find it the exploded parts list with disassembly/reassembly. Also provide part numbers, where components are located, very helpful.
Homelite/Ryobi.com (authorized parts supplier)
https://www.gardnerinc.com/recons/disclaimer-lg.php - Agree; Choose “Product Line”; “Select OEM” & “Select Catalog” both to “Homelite Consumer Products”. A drop down list appears; self explanatory from here.
The numbers Homelite & Ryobi use do not match the numbers everyone posts. A careful inspection of your saw should find something that matches.

The 3 models I found all had inboard clutches and the oil pump behind them. Start with this:
R² Drive Link Inboard Clutch by Drivelink.blogspot.com
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YUbSIHMSSP8
The C-clips tend to fly when being removed. Please wear eye protection and exercise care.

Continue like this with the remaining pieces.

R² Drive Link Outboard Clutch by Drivelink.blogspot.com
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cdqkIuVNUQc
  1. Check the IPL for your saw to see if any special tools are needed. Poulan (Craftsman, Jonsered, Husky) clutch removal tool part number 530031112 if needed, is under $5 from many sources (look at the visible area between the weights if 2 small round sockets are visible you need the tool).
  2. There are metal piston stops available, when square (almost never) with the piston top these work well, if not square they have been known to punch through the piston. I suggest a length of nylon rope (nothing left behind) be used instead of the piston stop (retain 6" ± so you can remove it). Make sure the piston is near the top of the cylinder before feeding the cord or it can fall through the exhaust port and damage the piston as it rises.
  3. Everyone I have ever removed had a left handed thread (tighten it to loosen it).
If you have more questions or need additional help please reply below and I will get back to you. Thank you for using FixYa and Good Luck. HTH
Lou



0helpful
1answer

Wont oil chain

Oil System Plugged.
  1. Remove the clutch cover, bar, and chain, clean the bar groove, any holes and passages on the rear of the bar (both sides, consider rotating the bar) Clean the saw oiler hole and channel. Insert a blunted, hooked piece of wire through the oil filler hole and pull the hose in the oil tank out. Pay attention to the screen or filter on the free end (clean or replace, difficult to determine serviceability). Start the saw and see if it oils when revved up. If yes reassemble your saw. If no, continue with 2.
  2. Work your way through the linkage cleaning and replacing any defective parts as you go. Carefully check the hoses for cracks especially at bends and connections. If equipped with an oil pump it is usually behind the clutch (clutch is a left handed thread). Please make extensive notes & some digital pictures will help during reassembly.
If it does not oil on completion of 1 it is most likely a bad oiler or worm gear. Please see the IPL to aid in oiler component identification.

It could be either inboard or outboard clutch so I provide both:
R² Drive Link Inboard Clutch by Drivelink.blogspot.com
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YUbSIHMSSP8
The C-clips tend to fly when being removed. Please wear eye protection and exercise care.
R² Drive Link Outboard Clutch by Drivelink.blogspot.com
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cdqkIuVNUQc
  1. Check the IPL for your saw to see if any special tools are needed.
  2. There are metal piston stops available, when square (almost never) with the piston top these work well, if not square they have been known to punch through the piston. I suggest a length of starter cord or nylon rope be used instead of the piston stop (retain 6" ± so you can remove it). Make sure the piston is near the top of the cylinder before feeding the cord or it can fall through the exhaust port and damage the piston as it rises.
  3. Everyone I have ever removed had a left handed thread (tighten it to loosen it).
    Let us know how it worked for you.
The oiler is probably below a sheet metal panel accessable after removing all clutch parts.

The IPL (exploded parts list) for your saw is the only detail for oil line routing and it is sketchy at best; components are listed but may be on multiple illustrations.
Homelite/Ryobi.com
(authorized parts supplier)
https://www.gardnerinc.com/recons/disclaimer-lg.php - Agree; Choose “Product Line”; “Select OEM” & “Select Catalog” both to “Homelite Consumer Products”. A drop down list appears; self explanatory from here.
The numbers Homelite & Ryobi use do not match the numbers everyone posts. A careful inspection of your saw should find something that matches. HTH
Lou


0helpful
1answer

Auto oiler on Z3850 clogged....Since last added oil, bar and chain appeared dry at end of using less than one tank of gas. Oil level dropped just a bit while gas was almost empty. Must be a simple line or...

Dealer trip depends on your level of mechanical ability, compfort with the procedure and how much time you are willing to spend.
Oil System Plugged.
  1. Remove the clutch cover, bar, and chain, clean the bar groove, any holes and passages on the rear of the bar (both sides, consider rotating the bar) Clean the saw oiler hole and channel. Insert a blunted, hooked piece of wire through the oil filler hole and pull the hose in the oil tank out. Pay attention to the screen or filter on the free end (clean or replace, difficult to determine serviceability). Start the saw and see if it oils when revved up. If yes reassemble your saw. If no, continue with 2.
  2. Work your way through the linkage cleaning and replacing any defective parts as you go. Carefully check the hoses for cracks especially at bends and connections. If equipped with an oil pump it is usually behind the clutch (clutch is a left handed thread). Please make extensive notes & some digital pictures will help during reassembly.
If 1 does not solve the problem it is most likely a defective oiler or worm gear behind the inboard clutch.
Use this as a guide to begin:
R² Drive Link Inboard Clutch by Drivelink.blogspot.com
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YUbSIHMSSP8
The C-clips tend to fly when being removed. Please wear eye protection and exercise care.



This is helpful with the remainder:
R² Drive Link Outboard Clutch by Drivelink.blogspot.com
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cdqkIuVNUQc
  1. Check the IPL for your saw to see if any special tools are needed.
  2. There are metal piston stops available, when square (almost never) with the piston top these work well, if not square they have been known to punch through the piston. I suggest a length of starter cord or nylon rope be used instead of the piston stop (retain 6" ± so you can remove it). Make sure the piston is near the top of the cylinder before feeding the cord or it can fall through the exhaust port and damage the piston as it rises.
  3. Everyone I have ever removed had a left handed thread (tighten it to loosen it).
    Let us know how it worked for you.
There is an oiler detail here:
Homelite/Ryobi.com (authorized parts supplier)
https://www.gardnerinc.com/recons/disclaimer-lg.php - Agree; Choose “Product Line”; “Select OEM” & “Select Catalog” both to “Homelite Consumer Products”. A drop down list appears; self explanatory from here. At the bottom of the "Homelite/Chain Saws/" list are a Z3850B and a Z3850BC, both have the same oiler assembly part numbers. Only you can determine your comfort level. Good Luck
Lou
Beware of Brer Fox.



1helpful
1answer

Automatic oiler does not work.I'm trying to disassemble the unit so I can clean out the oil flow path.

Outboard clutch illustration. The oil pump and worm gear are behind the clutch.
d46ce6a.gif If inboard clutch do this first then view the outboard clutch to remove the rest. If out board clutch disregard the inboard clutch instruction.

R² Drive Link Inboard Clutch by Drivelink.blogspot.com
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YUbSIHMSSP8
The C-clips tend to fly when being removed. Please wear eye protection and exercise care.

R² Drive Link Outboard Clutch by Drivelink.blogspot.com
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cdqkIuVNUQc
  1. Check the IPL for your saw to see if any special tools are needed.
  2. There are metal piston stops available, when square (almost never) with the piston top these work well, if not square they have been known to punch through the piston. I suggest a length of starter cord or nylon rope be used instead of the piston stop (retain 6" ± so you can remove it). Make sure the piston is near the top of the cylinder before feeding the cord or it can fall through the exhaust port and damage the piston as it rises.
  3. Everyone I have ever removed had a left handed thread (tighten it to loosen it).
    Let us know how it worked for you.
Oil System Plugged.
  1. Remove the clutch cover, bar, and chain, clean the bar groove, any holes and passages on the rear of the bar (both sides, consider rotating the bar) Clean the saw oiler hole and channel. Start the saw and see if it oils when revved up. If yes reassemble your saw. If no, continue with 2.
  2. Insert a blunted, hooked piece of wire through the oil filler hole and pull the hose in the oil tank out (clean or replace, difficult to determine serviceability). Work your way through the linkage cleaning and replacing any defective parts as you go. Carefully check the hoses for cracks especially at bends and connections. If equipped with an oil pump it is usually behind the clutch (clutch is a left handed thread). Please make extensive notes & some digital pictures will help during reassembly. GL
Lou
Parts break out may be helpful for disassembly.
Homelite/Ryobi.com (authorized parts supplier)
https://www.gardnerinc.com/recons/disclaimer-lg.php - Agree; Choose “Product Line”; “Select OEM” & “Select Catalog” both to “Homelite Consumer Products”. A drop down list appears; self explanatory from here.
The numbers Homelite & Ryobi use do not match the numbers everyone posts. A careful inspection of your saw should find something that matches.



0helpful
2answers

Homelite XL 101, what are cc's?

cc stands for cubic centermeters..It is a measurement of the chamber that the piston resides in when totally expacted
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