For the HV #1+ embroidery unit, using the plus hoop and embroider

Hello

The machine is indicating that it "wants" you to move the hoop into position P2 or P3 according to what is blinking. This is normal.

Once that colour is completed stitching, the machine will communicate again for the nest Position.

Happy Stitching
Sewingirl/

This can happen, click back to tools option check whether hoops selection is correct. If this is not the problem, off your machine then put on again. If message remain pull out the embroidery carriage & push in again. Hope it can work.
In jam situation, just exit from your embroidery option, fix the jam by moving the embroidery carriage, work on a different design and see if it work. Sometime a design may not work fully.

Calibrate the embroidery hoop


Note
The embroidery hoop can only be calibrated with the oval hoop.. You'll find the instructions for each machine in the relevant user manual.

Don't know for sure what is happening, but you should not put on a hoop until you are actually ready to embroider. The unit goes on while the machine is turned off; turn on the machine; it will make a noise; you should get a pop-up on your screen to Calibrate the unit. Touch this button, and the arm moves into position ready. Load your design and choose the correct hoop then put the hoop and project on the machine. Also be sure that your design will fit in the hoop selected.

1. What do I need to get started at free machine embroidery?
   • A zigzag sewing machine with a drop-feed control. (In other words, you have to be able to lower the feed dogs so they don't try to feed the fabric.) It's nice if you can vary the width of your zigzag stitches too.
     
   • An embroidery foot or needle with embroidery spring. An embroidery foot helps by holding the fabric down against the throat plate while nevertheless being minimal - it lets you see what you're doing because it has very little surface area. You can alternatively get a needle that has a kind of spring built into it, and the spring holds the fabric in place. These can be nice in that they're even more minimal than an embroidery foot, but they're also relatively expensive and if it breaks you have to replace the whole thing instead of using an ordinary cheap needle with the special embroidery foot. If you use the needle with spring, you don't use a presser foot while you embroider.
     
   • An embroidery hoop. There are two primary kinds of embroidery hoops on the market. The old-fashioned kind, usually made of wood, has an outer ring and an innter ring. You loosen the outer ring, separate the rings, place the fabric over the inner ring, place the outer ring over the fabric, tighten the outer ring, and pull the fabric tight in the hoop. With the modern type hoop, you squeeze a pair of handles on the inner ring to remove it, place the fabric over the outer ring, place the inner ring (still squeezed) into place and release the handles. The more modern hoop is faster and easier. The old-fashioned hoop provides better tension on the fabric.
     
   • Stabilizer. This helps prevent puckering and slipping while you're embroidering. There are a variety of types out there. Some are papery and are torn away from the embroidery when you're done. Only use that on the back side of the embroidery, as it's almost impossible to get it all off. Others are also papery and also tear away but are dissolvable in cold water, leaving only a few easy-to-remove fibers in the embroidery. Your authors like this type of stabilizer. There is also a transparent plastic-like stabilizer which dissolves completely in water. Your authors have this but haven't tried it yet, but hear it's very nice. It's expensive though.
     
   • Fabric... of course. Make sure that your embroidery hoop fits on the piece you're going to embroider on. If the piece is to be small, you may want to embroider before cutting the piece from the fabric.
     
   • Thread. Contrary to popular belief, you can use ordinary polyester all-purpose thread to embroider, but it can weaken the fabric you're embroidering on. (If you do use polyester, you may want to fuse some interfacing to the back of your embroidery when you're done.) There is plenty of gorgeous 100% rayon embroidery thread available.
     
   • Thread for the bobbin. This won't be seen on the surface, so you can use anything you want. Trying to find a way to get rid of that day-glo orange thread you can't remember why you bought? Stick it in the bobbin when you embroider. Some embroiderers feel that it's best to use a softer thread (like 100% cotton) in the bobbin so as to reduce the possibility that the bobbin thread will break the embroidery thread, but your authors haven't had a problem with this to date.
     
2. How do I prepare the machine and fabric for free machine embroidery? Drop the feed dogs and set the stitch length at zero. (If you can't set the stitch length at zero, don't panic, it's not that important.) Install the fabric in the embroidery hoop (with any stabilizer[s] you intend to use) so that the surface of the fabric is at the *bottom* of the hoop. (Note that if you're used to embroidering or cross stich by hand, this means you're putting the fabric in the hoop backwards.) When you place the hoop on the table such that the fabric surface rests on the table, the right side of the fabric should face up. Install the embroidery foot or special embroidery needle with spring on the sewing machine. If you're using the special needle, remove the presser foot. Place the embroidery hoop in the sewing area. (Some machines can't lift the presser foot enough to admit some hoops - you may have to remove the presser foot temporarily, position the hoop, and then re-install the presser foot if you're using one.) Set the sewing machine for a straight stitch. Reduce the upper tension until stitches interlock below the fabric instead of above or inside it.
   
3. How do I lock the thread at the beginning and end of my embroidery so it doesn't begin to unravel? Make several stitches in place to lock the thread.

After I stitch out the p1, I have to go back and load the p2 design and continue stitching after I adjust the hoop to the p2 setting. Then I do the same thing with the p3. It is a pain to go back and forth, but it works!

Call Viking direct

440-808-6550
800-358-0001

You may need to have the embroidery unit serviced. The slide rods in the embroidery unit will get dirty over time and must be cleaned and lubricated. If not, the mechanism can not slide freely and you will be unable to keep the unit calibrated while stitching a design.
You could attempt to disassemble and clean it yourself, but if you bring it to a repair center in pieces or improperly assemble your repair is going to cost a lot more than it will if you go today.

The plus hoop is a multi positional hoop that allows you you to embroider designs up to 4" x 6". It is essential for monogramming and lettering using your Rose. The Rose hooping system is the same as the 1+, the Scandinavia 300 and 400.

The designs you use must be formatted for the plus hoop. That is, the design has already been divided into two or three elements. Each element is an individual design. For instance, say the design is a long stemmed rose. It would probably be divided something like this: design 1: the flower and the top part of the stem, design 2: The middle part of the stem and the leaves, design 3: the bottom part of the stem.

You would hoop up your fabric to be embroidered, attach the hoop to the machine, set the hoop to position 1, select design 1, stitch out design 1, set the hoop to position 2, select design 2, stitch out design 2, set the hoop to position 3, select design 3, stitch out design 3. You should have a complete design when you're done and everything should match up perfectly!

The hoop is divided up into three squares, 4" x 4". Position 1 square overlaps position 2 square and position 2 square overlaps position 3 square. This overlapping allows the designs to stitch out more smoothly.

I hope this helps. Let me know if you have further questions. Carrie

Wow, I finally get to have a solution.
1. Turn the machine off.
2. Remove the hoop.
3. CAREFULLY slide the bar on the embroidery unit to the left.
4. CAREFULLY slide the piece where the hoop attaches toward you.
5. Turn on the sewing machine. The machine should take the unit to "standby" with a click.
6. Attach the hoop with the power on.
7. Exit the Futura software.
8. Restart the software.
This "should" fix the problem, however, you may have to repeat this process more than once to get it to "stick".