Are there different types of fire alarm systems and if so, what are they?

for the correct smoke alarms to use , go talk with your fire brigade officer or fire department
there are 2 types that use batteries and in some countries with an accommodation type of business the alarms have to be hard wired to a central alarm system that automatically calls the fire station

to open fire alarms twist the case to the left and it comes apart
consider this
if the alarm is old , it has been superseded with a better model that works on a different principle to smelling the air to detect smoke
Discuss the advantages of installing the new and different version with any fire prevention company or your local fire department
IN many instances a combination of both ensures protection of the people in the house

What type of smokes detectors are you using. Is the Zone programmed correctly. Loose connection. Missising resister

There are two types of home alarm systems, the wireless home alarm system and the hard wired home alarm system. Wireless home alarm systems are the most common these days with many of them having a simple do it yourself installation. Hard wired home alarm systems are still around and still used, however. Wireless home alarm systems are much simpler to install and much easier to maintain. (www.prweb.com)

Your smoke detectors, heat sensors or fire pull stations (depends on what is installed in your system) are located on your 4 zones. The wiring that connects these sensors to your fire control panel is supervised by an end-of-line resistor. Starting at the panel all wiring on that zone is daisy chained between each detector with the resistor being placed at the last detector. The panel looks for this resistance value at all times. If one of your detectors goes into alarm this creates a short. This is how the system recognizes an alarm state. Conversely, if there is break in the wiring the system fails to see any resistance and the panel will indicate a problem or trouble condition. The most likely cause of your 2 problems is either broken or cut wiring, ie; the system no longer sees the end-of-line resistance. If you are handy and have access to a multimeter you can measure resistance along the zone loop by disconnecting the zone wires from the panel and measuring wire resistance from each detector to the last one. Most Firelite systems use a 4.7k ohm resistor so you should see this at the zone wiring from the panel. If you don't, try removing a detector somewhere in the middle of the circuit and try again. Once you find a detector with that resistance your problem lies between that detector and the panel. It is just a matter of isolating the problem by measuring the zone resistance along different points of the zone wiring. If you are not comfortable doing this by yourself then I would suggest getting either an electrician or fire alarm tech to track down the problem. Hope this helps.

The fire alarm (usually an open contact, held closed during healthy operation) MUST go in series with the supply to the switch. This is normally incoming to a terminal which is linked between the hand and auto positions. If this is a full control panel, the fire alarm connection SHOULD be used to drop out the entire control circuit. Can you supply wiring diagram?

The phone wires run from directly from the telephone company connection to the alarm on the red and green. They return on the other two wires. These wires are hooked to your home phones. That's the UL way to do it. The alarm is supposed to be the first device on the telephone line. You can just run a phone line to the alarm panel. There probably is a diagram inside the cabinet door or a phone jack very near the alarm.

its depend on the alarm there are many types of alarms