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Anonymous Posted on May 04, 2013

When I run hot water for the tub, it has a brown tint

How long is the life span for this type of water heater? After reading through some posts the writer suggests corroded steel pipe somewhere in the plumbing system. He said trace the water lines back from the faucet and replace all the steel pipe. So, even if I replace the water heater, it sounds like I'll still have a problem. My house is only 10 years old - should I be having this problem? Is it a builder issue or a natural progression of pipe, or would my warranty (if I have one) cover this type of problem? Your thoughts?

1 Answer

Gene Haynes

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  • Rheem Master 5,391 Answers
  • Posted on May 04, 2013
Gene Haynes
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Joined: May 07, 2012
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10 year old homes today usually do not have galvanized pipe. They have copper or pex plastic pipe. These do not rust.
Is rusty water on both hot and cold line, or just hot line?
Just hot line, then check anode rod and flush tank:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Replace-anode-rod.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Clean-sediment-out-of-water-heater.html#flush
Are you on water well? Well casing can get rusted. Water can have minerals. Call local water well service and describe problem in detail.
Are you on city water or mudd district water? Is pipe coming into house made of galvanized? Look inside meter box or look at pipe coming into house. Sometimes the city water line at end of run can get filled with sediments that will discolor water. Have water company flush the city water line.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

5 Related Answers

co7196

Ned C Cook

  • 3433 Answers
  • Posted on May 06, 2009

SOURCE: when hot water is turned on the pipes make this vibrating sound.

A rumbling more than a vibration? If one in the same, the heating elements may have calcium build up which causes perculation like the perculator coffee pot which causes the heater to vibrate or rumble. If the elements can be removed they can be cleaned by soaking in lime away or a descaling solution. All said and done it will work like new.

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Anonymous

  • 455 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 11, 2010

SOURCE: Rusty colored water from hot water- is a gas

Hello,The "rust" is from the water itself.If the supply has a high iron content the process of heating it up seperates the iron out and over time it will form deposits on the bottom of the hot water tank.Locate the tank drain and connect a hose and open it up and let it run "flush" out the tank.Do this every month to keep it from building back up.It should be mentioned that the drain valve can be plastic and or very hard to close once it has been opened.They sell a brass drain end cap or the drain can be replaced with a new (long stem)drain.

Anonymous

  • 9 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 23, 2011

SOURCE: Takes a long time for water to get hot in all

bobo mayuk

A

Anonymous

  • Posted on May 15, 2011

SOURCE: I have the exact same problem, house is only 6

You have a clog in the water line?
Or a faulty check valve or mixing valve?

Add a comment and say how you fixed the problem, or add more information about size of pipes.
It seems like the cold water is getting into the hot water line somehow. There is no other explanation, as much as I can see from 800+ miles away.
If you have crossover on a single-handled faucet where the cartridge is bad, that can cause this problem.
Slab house can have plumbing in attic. It can be a chore to drop poly pipe down into walls, but it can be done with angle drill. Assuming walls are 8 foot high and pipes can be easily dropped to sink level where the sheetrock is removed and new pipes tied into sinks and tubs.
This kind of DIY project would take a couple weeks working a few hours each night when temps cool off, depending on size of house and number of affected faucets.
I live in Houston on a slab and ran my pipes in the attic when I built the house. Of course I worry about broken pipes collapsing the ceiling and filling the house with water, which happened to lots of homes one year when temps dropped to 4 below. I was in the painting business at that time, which was a boon to business for a few weeks.

Upvote the help.
And take advantage of fixya expert assistance live.
For a price, expert works with you while you work on water heater or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

Gene Haynes

  • 5391 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 17, 2012

SOURCE: Tricky and weird hot water issue

Bad single-handle faucet cartridge.
Bad check valve.
Bad mixing valve.
Test for crossover.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Crossover.html

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

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How do I remove heater element in a 3525d

If your electric hot water heater is slow to heat, runs out of hot water faster than it used to, or doesn't deliver any hot water at all, there's a 90 percent chance that simply replacing one or both of the heating elements will solve the problem. Water heater repairs are straightforward, and replacement elements are inexpensive ($8 to $20) and readily available at home centers, hardware stores and appliance parts dealers.
We'll show you how to test the heating elements, remove one if it's bad, and install a new one. Just keep in mind that water heaters have a typical life span of 10 to 15 years. If your heater is approaching old age, replacement may be smarter than repair
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Buying a new electric hot water heater and seeing two different types of elements; copper and combination. Is one type better than another, and if so, which one?

hot water systems come in three types
copper--subject to electrolyses around the heater element area where they leak life expectancy in good water areas -- possible 20 years
steel ( vitreous enamel coated to prevent rust-- subject to cracking of the covering during manufacture and transport and rusting around the ports-- life expectancy if in perfect condition - around 10 years
stainless steel-- mainly the cost but if in hard water areas is the most cost effective - life expectancy well past 20 years in harsh water conditions
the heater element are mostly copper as in the stove element and will last a long time provided the heater tank has water covering the element although the element may be stainless
however regardless of the material used it is the porcelain inside the covering that allows the element to short out and burn the cover
most hot water systems use common heater elements so it may be wise to keep operational units for future use
Best is to talk with a good plumber supply shop ( not a hard ware shop) and get all the details before buying a new system
repairing is not really an option
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Heater

Water heater can be added to any incoming water line, either on hot or cold.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-install-under-counter-water-heater.html
Under-counter water heater located near tub will supply hot water just like ordinary household water heater. But it will not reheat water that circulates inside the spa tub.
Otherwise, a spa heater is made with electric element that can work with 120V or 240V. Water from tub circulates through tank that holds element. Element must be fully immersed in water.
To retrofit spa tub with this heater would require cutting water line near pump, running both ends of water line into tank with element.
Then of course you would need to retrofit adjustable thermostat to control when element is on. And integrate element operation into air control switch at tub that can override thermostat so element is not heating when tub is not in use.
Unless there is a pre-packaged kit to retrofit heater, I think adding heater would be difficult.

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The thermal cutout pops on tank two after it shuts off. It boils then shuts off. It also turns off when taking a shower, producing cold water. I checked the ohm readings on the thermal cutout and the...

Question posted under Bosch tankless.
Question says 'tank'
Brand, model, and type heater unknown.
Elements mean electric.
'Thermal cutout pops when taking shower produces cold water' indicates tankless, since tank-type would maintain some hot water.
No error code might indicate tank-type.
Add a comment with type, brand and model number of heater for possible assistance.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

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I don't have a problem, just a question.....we are in the process of buying ahome and the hot water heater is a Reliance 501, 50 gallon tank....with serial number G94278175...I would like to know the...

State, Kenmore, Reliance, Ace , Ambassador, Barnett, Century, Crosley, Energy Stretcher, Freedom, Freedom/Nipsco, Hardware House, Master Plumber/True 5, Mission, Nationaline, Patriot, Penfield, President, Regency, Century, The Plumbery, Thermo-king, TopLine
1-letter month followed by 2-digit year

So it was manufactued in 1994. Most water heaters will last 5-10 years for gas and 10-15 for electric unless they receive yearly maintenance (flushing tank, cleaning) so it is already past its expected life span.

That being said, an electric water heater is more costly than a gas one. If I was in your place I would start saving to replace the unit with a tankless gas water heater, as soon as the house closed.
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Rheem water heater model #82V661 serial # RH0106D11663 leaking water at lower panel. Water is coming from above wiring and control panel. Is this fixable or need to be replaced? Mfg date is 01/2006

You have 240volt electric water heater
Check both elements for leaking.
Check top of tank for leaking pipes.

If water heater is leaking from side of tank, then tank is rusted out and could rupture.
This tank must be replaced.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-at-bottom-of-water-heater.html

My friend welded his tank to get more life out of tank, but he assumed the risk.

Hot water heaters are under pressure from heated water which expands.
If tank ruptures, water will flood out of tank and water will run until shut-off is turned OFF.
This causes major damage inside home.

Protect yourself first, and then let's talk more.
1) Turn off water at shut off located on cold water line above tank.
2) Turn off power to water heater:
Gas heater, rotate valve to 'pilot' so pilot is lit but burner does not turn ON.
Electric heater, turn off circuit breaker.
3) Open tub spout on hot side and let run a bit to relieve pressure.
4) Now your property is safe.

You can limp along with failed heater if leak is slow.
Turn heater ON when you need hot water.
Typical Gas heater makes 41 gallons hot water per hour.
Typical Electric heater makes 21 gallons hot water.
Shower uses 5-9 gallons hot water, bath uses 12-14 gallons hot water.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Water-heater-reference-guide-2.jpg

If you are going to install heater yourself:
Look at label on side of old tank to identify size and particulars.
I buy ordinary heaters from Lowes and Home Depot and always buy scratch-n-dent models when possible, because superficial damage to outer tank does not lower lifespan of heaters I have installed.
Buy same size heater if it worked fine before.
Buy new flexible water connectors.
Set water heater in drip pan.
Offer 10% less than price shown. Make them deal with you. Shop Ace hardware, Lowes, Home Depot. Kick the tires since you have a bit of time.

I know you have electric heater, but many folks read these answers, so I include info on gas too.
#1 rule) tankless heaters are a rich-man's toy, because tankless will never pay you back, and will become major money pit if you encounter 1 repair. Electric tankless heaters require larger electric service box. Gas tankless require larger gas line (larger gas line, more gas consumption, bigger bill unless you cut consumption)
2) How to install gas heater:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-gas-water-heater.html
3) How to install electric heater:
Read link above because many of same steps apply to electric.
The difference with electric, is turn off power, disconnect wires, and reconnect wires exactly like before. Set electric heater directly on insulated surface like dense blue styrafoam. Cut styrafoam in circle so it fits inside dip pan. Wrap entire electric heater with insulation blanket, except don't cover TP valve.
4) Connect bare copper jumper wire between hot and cold pipes to prevent stray current corrosion which will shorten life of tank. Make sure cold water line is grounded.

Also read:
http://waterheatertimer.org/9-ways-to-save-with-water-heater.html

Add a comment for more free assistance.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, fixya expert speaks to you via phone about any do-it-yourself problem.
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MY HOT WATER COMES OUT WITH AN ORANGE TINT AND THEN TURNS TO A GREEN TINT ONCE THE TUB IS FULL OF WATER!!! I HAVE AN A.O. SMITE ELECTRIC WATER HEATER MODEL EES 52 917. DO I NEED TO BUY A NEW WATER HEATER?

A new water heater may not solve the problem - do you have colored water coming out of the cold side, at all faucets and in your commode too? If so then your pipes may be corroded inside ( typical from well water systems) and will need replacement too. Initially I would suggest hooking up a garden hose to the drain on the heater and, after running the other end of the hose outside, open that valve to see if the water is colored. If so, then I would strongly suspect your water heater needs replacing. Also, look under the water heater to see if there's any leakage, indicated by brown stains either on the floor under the heater or running down the side.
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Water heater-american standard brand

I assume you are talking about an electric water heater. The normal life span of an electric water heater is up to 11 years. Before you replace it, try turning off the unit, turning off the water supply, and draining the tank of any built up rust and sediment. Refill the tank, and turn the power back on and see how it performs. If it is still acting up, look at a replacement. On a positive note, the new water heater should pay for itself in pretty short order due to better insulation saving energy (and replacing with a higher efficiency unit may qualify for a tax credit).
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