Blade shadt adjustment

Just as a question and I am not being smart you know that the wheel to raise the blade work counter clockwise.
The other thing you need to check is in your manual here is the part how to adjust the blade for raisin/lowering.
After five hours of operation, the blade elevation/tilting mechanism should be checked for looseness, binding, or other abnormalities. Disconnect the saw from the power source, turn the saw upside down and pull up and down on the motor unit. Observe any movement in the motor mounting mechanism. Looseness or play in the blade raising screw 1 should be adjusted as follows (Fig. 55): 1. Loosen nut 2. 2. Adjust the nut 3 until it is finger-tight against the bracket 4, then back off the nut 3 1/6 turn. 3. Tighten nut 2. The maximum allowable play of the screw rod 1 is 5/32" (4 m). Place a small amount of dry lubricant (such as graphite or silicon) on the screw rod 1 at the thrust washer 5. Do not oil the threads of screw rod 1. The screw rod 1 must be kept clean and free of sawdust, gum, pitch, and other contaminant's for smooth operation. NOTE: If excessive looseness is observed in any other part of the blade elevation mechanism or tilting mechanism, take the complete unit to an authorized service center.

Are you referring to the table top or rip fence alignment? The blade itself is not aligned. We adjust the table to parallel with blade and the rip fence should toe away from blade 0.01mm over the length of the rip fence to prevent binding.

These lightweight saws can be somewhat problematic in this respect. They have a tendency to come out of adjustment as they are moved about.
First, make sure the blade you're using is true and has little runout. You can check this using a micrometer, or simply marking a tooth and spinning the blade by hand (power unplugged) to see if the blade runs true or wavers in its path. If the blade is warped or bent the problem is probably there rather than the table.
Second, check to make sure the fence is properly adjusted, parallel to the mitre slots. If the fence is out of adjustment, the path of the material relative to the blade will not be parallel, and this can cause poor cuts.
Third, hope it's one of the first two. If not, set a day or weekend aside to work on the saw. Get some good light and flip it over on a table or horses so you can see what you're doing. Have the parts diagram and owner's manual on hand.
You'll need to loosen the bolts that hold the table top against the saw mechanism beneath the top, and shift the saw relative to the top in the desired direction to correct for the out-of true path of the blade relative to the table top. On some lighter saws like yours, this entails re-adjusting most of the saw mechanisms to run true, as they are frequently independently bolted to the underside of the table and not unified construction that moves as a single piece.
You have to shift the saw slightly in the required direction, check the runout of the blade, then repeat until you get it right. If you're skilled and you don't mind standing on your head, you can do this with the saw in position.
There are many excellent articles online that detail this procedure if you search google for "table saw tune up", so I won't elaborate on the details. Try to find one that has a saw similar to yours as an example. Good luck.

I hope this information allows you to resolve this issue. If you need further assistance, please post back with a comment to this thread.
If I've managed to answer your question or solve a problem, please take just a moment to rate this post....thanks!

Use a carpenter square, place the square on the table top with the blade up right, adjust the tilt of the table saw blade until it is exactly parallel to the blade of the carpenter square. Check the blade in several places as the table saw blade is sometimes warped. Try to adjust until a happy median is obtained.

First thing to check is that the deck is level by the adjustments on wheels. Then check the bearings in the spindle housings and there is no play in the shaft when you try to move blade up and down. You then can measure from the blade tip bottom of deck on both sides (3 o'clock and 9 o'clock, and then 12 o'clock and 6'o clock They should all be the same. If not then either the shaft is bent, or the deck is bent slightly causing the blade not being parallel to the deck. If you have someone rotate the shaft you should be able to tell if the shaft is bent or not. If the deck is bent, then you will have to straighten it out till the spindle shaft is perpendicular to deck.

The blade height is not adjustable on any of the tractors I have worked on or owned. The blade seats against a shoulder on a spindle and held in place by a nut. Sometimes replacement blades are not shaped the same as the original and changes the blade cuttnig height but other than in those circustances there is no adjustment.

The wheels are not parallel to each other causing mis-tracking. Check both wheel bearings for any slop. Make sure the wheel surfaces are not broken up. There should be tracking adjustments on the upper wheel. Turn the machine by hand until it tracks perfectly. Make sure the lower wheel is tight to it's shaft. Hope this helps!

Try using a 1/16 thick flat washer as a shim where the mounting bolts/trunions mate with table. 1/16 shim on front mounting bolt will shift front of blade over 1/16 or 1 on the back mounting bolt will shift back of blade over

You should be able to adjust the fence but every model is different so I probably cannot tell you exactly how. My Biesemeyer fence has 2 set screws on front guide of the fence for parallel adjustment to the blade (this fence is a single piece fence). I had a Sears contractor saw that had 2 bolts on the top of the fence that needed to be loosened, the fence moved parallel, and the bolts tightened again (the Sears fence was a bolt together fence). Whatever fence you have I would think the adjustment would be on the front part of the fence. I would remove the fence (the fence only, not the guides) from your table saw and take a close look at it for any adjustment screws (the Biesemeyer set screws are somewhat hidden) . If the fence bolts together you will probably need to loosen the bolts to do the alignment. There is a quick check you can make to verify the problem is the fence not being parallel to the blade because your problem could also be caused by a bent saw blade arbor (the saw blade would wobble as it turns)

ø Lock your fence down and measure from the front of the blade to the fence and from the back of the blade to the fence. These measurements should be within 1/32” (ideally is should be zero).
ø If the fence passes the test above, you can see if your saw blade shaft is bent by sliding the fence very near the blade, locking the fence down, and rotation the blade by hand (unplug the saw first). If the blade rubs on the fence as it rotates then you could have a bent arbor, a bad arbor bearing, or a bent blade.