Valve is set to far into the wall...

The handle may be secured with a set screw in the body of the handle that must be loosened before the handle will lift off the valve - the set screw will require an appropriately-sized hex (or "allen") wrench. If you cannot find a set screw on the handle, then the handle is friction fit - in which case no tools are required, just a bit of force to lift the handle off.

Hope this helps. Post a reply if you need further assistance.

DIYpro

You should have a template in the kit for this. The web site will also have detail specifications.

Short of that (and I've been there) use a piece of cardboard. Trace the outside edge. Now make in inner circle the width of the flange area. Cut out the remaining center. Align it to the shaft on the wall and mark your cut line. Some of these have a single screw that attach the cover to the hardware in the back. Being a thin wall you may need to set back the plumbing tree to get the cover all the way in. If you are soldering the fittings be sure to remove the nylon sleeve first as the heat can damage it.

Automotive Thread-Lock compound will secure the parts during normal day to day use-and still allow the faucet to be disassembled for servicing. You will only need a drop or two, don't over do it.

usually flush with the tile. although moen does make an extension kit if you goof and set it too far into the wall

sometimes check the faucet screws they come loose or if they are old you might want to replace the whole diverter, take them to lowes or home depot and have them guys in the plumbing department hook you up. trust me you are opening a can of worms with rubber valve seats just get new ones. Make sure before pulling you cut off water supply to them.

this is a common problem its normally the copper piping inside the walls are not secured to the beams well enough and it causes water hammer in the lines...
if its only just started doing it recently you may get away with cleaning out your taps or replacing them but alot of the time you cant do much about it as the pipes are concealled in the walls

Make sure there is 1/16 to 1/32 inch space on each side of the paper in the paper tray.
Move the paper type selector back and forth 5 times, to make sure it is not stuck.
Feed the tray with a minimum of 20 sheets of paper and try to see if it loads paper through.
The paper thickness lever has two settings, one for plain paper, (thin paper 20# to 24#) and one for envelopes and thick paper.
It should be on the 0 setting for thin paper and on the + setting for thick paper and envelopes.
The paper adjustment lever may be adjusted in between the two settings to accommodate paper that is not standard or that the operating/environmental conditions have changed.
Make sure the paper is loaded far enough into the printer to ensure good contact between the paper and the paper feed mechanism.

shower heads are fitted with a 'flow limiter' which is no more than a washer under the sealing gasket where the 'head' fits to the supply pipe.un-screw shower head from pipe,remove 'limiter' reinstall & enjoy.

Make sure that there is water available by turning the wall faucets all the way on. if the wall faucets are on and the water inlet hoses are clear and the screens are not clogged, this will confirm water inlet valve assembly failure. you will need to replace this device in this case.

You can test the valve assembly for voltage, if the voltage is not sufficient, replace the control and, if the voltage is 120 vac, replace the water valve assembly.

Faucets are installed from behind the wall and there fore you will need to either cut the sheetrock on the opposing side or cut part of the tile out on the front to gain access to the valve. It is better if you come in from behind as you can build an access panel if you ever need to gain access again.
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