Have a hobart 125 ez just bought brand new cant get it to weld or spark welder comes on but nothing and the ground is connected dont really wont to take it back
Lets go over the basics 1 do you have it set up ,the wire feader turned up at least to see if it sparks 2 do you have itset up at least to see if the amps are on enough to get a spark? try thoughs and see where you are,then turn those up enough to weld with . (make sure your wearing a good helmut .please you only get one pair of eyes!!!!!!!!! )hope this helps jojogunn.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Hello, by pulsates, do you mean that the wire feed is what is pulsating while welding? If so, I have had this as well. I found that by turning down my feed rate, the pulsing stopped and the feed was smooth. I hope this helps. If not, contact me again.
joe
If you are using solid wire, you need to use a shielding gas like Carbon Dioxide or Argon. Otherwise you will not get *********** and the wire will leave random blobs.
If you are using flux cored wire, you do not need the shield gas as the core is producing the gas shield.
I have welded countless hours with Linde & Lincoln & even a few Hobarts & the only time that I ever had the same problem was when the ground connection either to the object I was welding, or the welding cable ground wasn't good & clean & tight. Same on stick welders also. I did develop the habit of grinding not only where I was preparing to weld, but where I was placing my ground clamp & that always provided a better "frying bacon" sound as I went along the business of pushing a bead. In a welder, the only other thing than that is involved is the step-up transformer and your wire. Hope this helps.
If you are using flux wire and not shielding gas, your clamp should be positive and the wire should be negative. Heat is provided by the electrical arc that happens between the wire and the material. Your welder by itself does not pre heat the material and with 3/16 material you should not need to preheat anyway.
The electrical arc is kept consistent by adjusting the wire feed rate and the current applied. You will need to experiment with these settings to find what works best with your welder. For this welder and 3/16 material, I would suggest you start at the upper end of the current scale and about a third of the way up on wire speed. The welder might have a chart for these settings in the manual or inside cover.
If the wire feeds too fast, it will push the probe around and you will feel pressure as the wire feeds out. If the speed is too slow you will get large spatters and intermittent arcs. When properly adjusted the arc will sound even and consistent. The arc gap should always be about 1/8 of an inch.
To maintain enough heat for good penatration, do not move the probe too fast, work in a pattern and watch the weld pool (melted metal) and not the arc. Watching the weld pool will clue you in if you are moving too fast or too slow.
Some welders control wire speed with the amps control, some control amps with the wire speed control. You might try turning things up until it runs smoothly without pushing back. If you're new at welding, it does take some practice until it feels right.
Is this a mig welder?
nothing happens when i push the on button
×