Circuit board blinks four times

You must have a bad board.

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I believe this code is ignition failure.
Turn power off and after 20 seconds turn power on with thermostat calling for heat. Vent blower should come on first. After a bit igniter should lite up. You should hear click noise of gas valve open up. If igniter does lite and you hear click noise, flame should come on for a few seconds minimum. If igniter doesn't lite and you hear click noise from gas valve, igniter is bad. If flame lites and then goes out, flame sensor probably needs cleaned. Both igniter and flame sensor are in metal plate under burners. Igniter has 2 wire going to it and flame sensor has one wire. If you think it is flame sensor you can remove with taking it out with 1 1/4" hex screw. Flame sensor will have white film on it if it needs cleaned, clean with steel wool or a dollar bill. If it isn't weither of these it is gas valve or circuit board.

you need a service person to come out

Remove the front panel and tape down the door safety switch so the unit can turn on when door is off. Turn up thermostat to make sure there is a call for heat. The circuit board should indicate a call for heat with either a blinking light or a solid light. Then the exhaust fan should turn on clearing the venting from any fumes. When the fan has ran for a few seconds, the igniter should start glowing orange. After it reaches a predetermined temperature, the gas valve should open with a click. The flame will start at the burner closest to the igniter and travel away from the igniter. There is a small flame rod located in the flame path on the last burner that tells the circuit board it feels the flame. If the flame goes off within a few seconds of starting, you have a dirty flame rod. Clean it with a scotch-brite pad. Once you get the flame to stay on for 90 seconds or so, the room air blower will turn on. If it tries 2 or 3 times to start but does not, the circuit board will record a code and display it with a blinking light. Look on the door panel for a wiring diagram. There will also be a Diagnostic chart that will tell you what the pattern of blinking lights represent.

Good Luck!

One thing you can checkmis the continuity through the ignitor itself if you have continutity through that there is also some safeties it has to go through but the board is where the voltage is supplied for the ignitor. I would check the high limit and the roll out before condeming the board.

The sequence of events for furnace operation is -

Fan purge for 30-45 seconds. During this time, a pressure switch is actuated by the running of the purge fan, proving the control board the purge fan is running.

After purge and purge prove, the hot surface ignition and or spark begins. After a few second delay, the gas valve will open. The control board then monitors for flame prove through another sensor located near the burners. If there is no flame within 3-5 seconds, the gas valve closes. It will repeat this process, usually 3 times, before it shuts the system down, which requires a power down of the system to reset.

I have seen trash get into the hose between the purge blower and the purge switch. But you could be having other problems.

If the hot surface ignitor comes on and fires the burners, and then shuts back down, you need to take a look at the flame sensor. It is a ceramic rod with a metal tip that rests in the pilot flame. When heated from burners, it sends a signal to the main control module, circuit board, which ever this unit is equipped with to keep the burners on. It is a safety to shut the burners down if there is a problem. Take some fine steel wool to clean the metal tip on this and this should take care of the problem. If this does not do it, then 99% of the time you have a faulty control board or module. It will have to be replaced.It is where this flame sensor connects.It will continue to drop out of the circuit, and the fan will start and run. You're T-stat is good or the Hot Surface ignitor would not glow. You will need to take as much info you can from the unit, Goodman and the control, all numbers with you.You can purchase this part at a appliance parts house, or air conditioning parts house. Please keep me informed, I would like to hear back from you. I hope this has given you some direction to follow.Good Luck,
Shastalaker7

I have this clunker-4 flashes is an open high limit code according to the wiring diagram and fault code sheet. the common denomonator for this furnaces problems is the circuit board. Always flashing 3, 4, 7 times most of the time having nothing to do with the problem. The actual problem is the board it's self. take it off the mounts (POWER OFF FIRST AND SWITCH OFF>)
remove from the 4 mounts one at a time then check the back of the board. you will probably notice brown spots on the green. this is where the board has burned up. replace the board and you will be fine, you will also be the 100th person I know to have this problem. Make sure you take a picture of the board before you take all the wires off so you can put them back properly. I personally have replaced the board twice the first replacement I purchased (warranty) was made by the same company as the original, the second board I replaced 1 year later with a new board made by a new manufacturer. they obviously knew there was a problem.

http://hphotos-snc3.fbcdn.net/hs066.snc3/13331_1198507328519_1403584043_30566732_3667503_n.jpg

this is a picture of a board another fixya user sent me today after he had the same problem as you and I told him what to look for. look familliar?

One blink means it didn't light after a number of attempts. You replaced the circuit board and gas valve. Read on for some suggestions. On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the igniter. The igniter will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the igniter gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.

What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the igniter does not energize (bad control, bad igniter), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not light (dirty pilot), the burner does not light (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).

I Also have the same and other problems with my furnace model # GDS80703AXBB. First the LED kept blinking 4 times and I too jumped the primary limit, that didn't kelp. After several attemps I moved the wires going to the circut board and everything starting working again. After a week It stopped working again, so I pulled the plug out of the circut board checked all wires for for a bad connection plugged it back in. Now the LED blinks 6 times again I move the wires. Then the LED blinks 3 times. Then the transformer burns out. I have burned out 2 transformers and I have ordered a new circut board.