Srs618dp model samsung noisy and lose temperature

SOURCE: FREEZER SOUNDS VERY NOISY

Fridge problem could be the fan is bad or that it is hitting ice. When the noise is kind of a buzzing like it is hitting ice...defrost your unit by unplugging and waiting a day or so for full melt out...then check your door gaskets for cleanliness and good seal.

Thanks.

SOURCE: loud noise from the freezer side

The problem is a buildup of ice on the plastic housing (the curved plastic bit) in the back of the freezer under the fixed shelf where the icetub goes. The fan behind this plastic housing is hitting the ice when the defrost comes on.

Unplug the fridge, unpack the freezer, remove the four screws in the back, take off the sheetmetal backing and let the fridge thaw. You can remove the plastic piece after a while and get the ice off (be careful not to remove the styrofoam insulation by going too quickly).

Reassemble and you're back in business, for a few months. I'm never buying Samsung again myself.

SOURCE: Fridge Temperature wont stop blinking

I had the same prob, you need to defrost it until No MORE water drips out of the drain pipes located at the back ( there should be 2 of them one for fridge one for the frezzer, make sure the rubber thing at the top of the pipe is not closed up- if it is cut it open ) when you think its defrosted place a cup under these pipes and leave it for a few more hours, if there is ANY more water in there your not defrosted yet and it wont work--- Leave the doors open of course, mine took almost three days and i live in a hot climate.
ok once you have done that, take the cover off for the main circuit board ( top of the fridge ) on the circuit board there should be a little black button with "test" on it hold that in and turn the fridge on. it should beep at you ( wait 5 sec ) then push it again ( beeps again, wait 5 sec ) push it again, you have to do it about 3-4 time before it stops beeping, when its stopped, just leave it, it should start up after a couple a mins.
the fridge will take much longer to get cold so be patient, if you find it flashing again push that test button, i just played round with mine and it came right, good luck, because the only other way round the prob is to turn it off at the wall and turn it back on.

SOURCE: Temperature showing on door indicates freezer is

Un plug the fridge and remove the top plastic hinge cover...There is a connector there that is for the control panel. Disconnect and reseat that connector...If there is a glob of hot glue there it may keep the connector from totally seating together. Remove the glob of glue.....

Re-apply power and see if that helps...
This fridge is a comptuter controlled machine. It is extremely complex in it's operation....Bummer.....I have one and have worked on it for 3 different problems...
Most service guys are just going to throw parts at it.....they have no understanding of the operation of it...
Here is a link for the service manual that may help if someone in the family can follow instructions...Nice tests....
http://www.ajmadison.com/ajmadison/itemdocs/DA68-01778A-EN.pdf

Good luck....

SOURCE: Samsung Cooltech SL-L551DP fridge Freezer.

Hello,

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The answer to these questions lies in the way the freezer/fridge combo works. The freezer is where the cooling coils are located. Then air is moved over the coils and circulated through the fridge side by a small blower or fan. The problem arises when the air is not circulated for some reason.

The reasons the air is not moving is usually two reasons

1. The fan or blower has failed.
2. The coil is covered over with ice and blocks the air flow.

The first reason is pretty simple to fix, you simply replace the air circulator and things are good again.
The second reason can be more difficult.
1. The timing device that runs the defrost cycle of the refrigerator is defective.
2. The heater coil that melts the water is shorted or not working

Usually the first thing to check is the heater coil. If there is resistance through the coil then most likely it is still good.
The timing device can be an advanced defrost control board or a mechanical timing device.
If the heater coil checks out to be good then the problem should be the timer.

For most situations, unplugging the refrigerator and allowing it to defrost on it's own will get you going temporarily, till parts can be shipped to you. That will melt the ice and give you a few days or a couple of weeks till it ices up to the point where it will not work again.

So you can see here, the problem can usually be traced to one of three things.

1. The fan or blower
2. The timer device
3. The electric heater coil