Whirlpool WTW6800WL Top Load Washer Logo
Tom Lawrence Posted on Mar 28, 2013
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Extremely Loud during spin cycle

We had this machine for a year and it all the sudden started getting very loud during the spin cycle. It is normal during most of the wash time, but in the last 5 minutes when it drains and spins fast it gets so loud you can't even be in the adjacent room.

1 Answer

Sal De

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  • Whirlpool Master 2,699 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 30, 2013
Sal  De
Whirlpool Master
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Joined: Jul 04, 2008
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Bad spider gear,need to replace the washer if it sounds like this
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uud3xDus4TQ&feature=related

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 246 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 26, 2008

SOURCE: loud noise at end of spin cycle

The most common cause of the symptom you are describing is a bad drive block which has probably ruined your basket drive as well. Let me give a quick explination. The weight of the basket you put your clothes in is supported entirely in the center of the washer underneath your agitator. It rests on an aluminum block called your drive block. So that the basket will move back and forth while the washer agitates, there are two tabs on the drive block that lock your basket drive underneath in place. Once the drive block wears out or round down these tabs, the basket will raise slightly and "skip" across the top when the spin cyle is stopped. To verify this, you can check one of two things. First (and easiest) is put a heavy, large load in the washer, get it wet then spin it out. Once the washer reaches the maximum spin speed, open the lid. The washer should snap to a halt when functioning properly. What I belive you'll find is that even with the lid open, the basket will continue to spin. The other method to verify this is take the top of the agitator off. Next remove the bolt in the middle of the agitator and lift the agitator off. In the middle, you should find a large flat metal colored nut.In the middle of that nut, you should see two tabs across from one another. There should be two straight pieces of metal coming up from the bottom which have nice, straight sharp corners. Again, if I am correct, you will find they have been rounded off and there may even be shavings of metal visable.
To replace a basket drive and drive block, you will need to purchase the parts and also a specialty tool from removal and instalation. These will probably run you around 125-175. If you are interested in giving it a go, reply back to me and I will get you some step-by-stpe instructions typed up.

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David Shaub

  • 2994 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 02, 2009

SOURCE: Washing Machine Moves in Spin Cycle

There are 2 things you can do.
All washing machines have an off balance shut off, some are touchy, some let it run around the house. With wht machine empty, lean it towards you, on the 2 front feet, about 2 or 3 inches and let it drop. The self leveling feet in the rear must BOTH make good floor gontact and sometimes, just the weight of the machine will not adjust them. The other thing is, make sure the load is evenly distributed. Coats, blankets, small rugs etc. are very heavy when wet and they tend to throw all of the weight to one side.
There is no screw holding the yub in place. It hangs on the center post, where the agitator goes. There is however, what's called a snubber. It is a rubber device that looks like a flattened suction cup, that comes in contact with the tub. It helps keep the tub from jumping around too much.

Anonymous

  • 14 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 07, 2009

SOURCE: Washer drum shakes excessively during fast spin

y shaped piece that contains the spindle that attatches to the basket and allows it to spin is corroded and cracking. you can't buy just the spindle bracket, you must buy the basket too. you'll be buying the front part of the drum too, if you wait to long.

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Jun 26, 2009

SOURCE: Loud dry sounding spin cycle

I had the same problem with mine. The noise was verry loud towards the end...2 years I was a happy camper with my top of the line Cabrio, and then started to do the noise, a friend who work on washers told me that it was the transmission and to let it bust it self and then fix it. I have a home service warranty that covers the washer and they send a tech to fix it, he fix the problem with the transmission but now I have a problem of UL Unbalance Load all the time and I have to be moving the cloth around and move the knob to drain and spin all the time to get the the machine to drain the water. good luck with your problem

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Aug 23, 2009

SOURCE: Problem with F21 code on whirlpool duet sport

i had the same problem. take the bottom cover off of the front of the washer. on the right you will see a round white screw off cover, it is very tight, it unscrews counter clock-wise. pull this out and see if there is any debris in it. if you look into the hole on the right side there is a hole about 1 inch round, this is the pump opening. you may have to take the gray drain hose off of the back of the pump housing and feel if anything is stuck in there, in my case there was a penny stuck side ways blocking the flow of water. after i took it out the washer has been running great again. this is obviously a design flaw, that something that large could manage to get that far, lucky for me it didn't damage the pump impeller. hope this helps. this should take care of the SD and the F21 error codes.

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