Checked all "tubing" and it is clear. Is there a special pump from below that gets water to upper rack?
This is often the fill valve. You can test the fill valve coil for continuity with a ohm meter, no needle movement = bad fill valve. You can also test the fill valve for 120 volts at the fill valve with a volt meter, power there and no fill = bad fill valve. No 120 volts there, you will have to trace power back to find the trouble maker. Test things like the float and float switch, wires and timer. Fill valves are very bad for working once or twice and then quitting, if your dishwasher fills the first and second fill cycles and then no more water through the rest of the cycle, replace the fill valve. You will need to remove the access panels to get at the fill valve. Dishwasher fill valves also have a screen built into the valve entrance, this can also get all clogged up and need to be cleaned.
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