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65 AMPS? That's drawing a LOT of power.
Is it tripping the breaker even before you pull the trigger?
If yes, I would use a continuity meter to start checking the various components. In particular, see if the switch is stuck in the ON position.
Unless you are experienced in tracking and performing electrical maintenance problem solving, this may be a situation best left to a repair shop.
Cheers
You may have a bad heating element. But first make sure you have power to the gfci. (check the braker) You can test this by disconnecting the heater leads and see if it will reset. If it still trips try disconnecting your equipment one at a time, ie. blower, ozone, circ pump, booster pumps. If nothing solves the gfci issue you need to replace the gfci. All of this is assuming you have a blank gfci receptical monted to your spa pack.
If your talking about the 50 amp gfci at the braker box try pushing the braker all the way to the off position then back to the on possition. If it trips right away do the above.
Hi,circiut braker trips only when the load on it is to much. That is carry what is bigger than it watt, or can not carry too well. If you have another amp., you can put some load on that to reduce to braker always tripping off.
If that is the only amp. you have in what you are doing, just reduce the amp. volume to half(setting at 12 O CLOCK). it will work, but will not be too loud as before.
it could have a small leak to ground on it,,, thats why it trips the brakers,, on a higher braker the leek off also needs to be higher than 50milly amps to trip the braker,,, this unit uses 13 amps
It sounds like you have a contact trip trigger that you are trying to operate as a sequential trip. Sequential trip is when you have to put the tool against the work and pull the trigger every time, contact trip is when you pull the trigger and tap the nailer on the work and it fires. If you operate a contact trip like a sequential it will fire but it usually fire more than one nail. Your instruction manual will explain this, sometimes they give you two seperate triggers for the two modes or there is an adjustment on the nailer.
Make sure there's power getting to your range, oven or cook top. Check for a
tripped circuit breaker or a blown fuse. Check the wall socket for
power with a voltmeter or by plugging something else in.
If everything above is ok, move on to the power cord junction point. make sure the power cord has not separated from the junction point on the backside of the unit.
1) Try with a different surge protector. The oine you're using could have a short-circuit
2) Try without a surge suppressor, at least for a day
3) Does the circuit breaker trip when something else starts running? Your microwave, fridge, dishwasher, etc.?
4) Check the user's manual of your TV, under SPECIFICATIONS. Check for "POWER REQUIREMENTS". If the power requirements listed is greater than 15 Amps or 1,700 Watts (assuming you live in the USA and your household is 110-120V), then the circuit breaker will almost always be triggered by the TV. Most circuit breakers inside a house are 15 Amps.
The only option you have is to replace the circuit breaker for one that has more Amps, but doing so on your own without having and electrican check if the wiring will hold the extra load is extremely unadvaisable. You may end up with an electric fire in your hands.
You may have a bad breaker. It is possible that the breaker is weak as indicated by the past two times you had to reset it. You need to ck voltage at the dryer first with a voltmeter. If no or low voltage is present the breaker may need to be changed. They do go bad!
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