Exhuast smell(odor) my laser 30 toyo stove gives off an odor of K-1 most reminscent of partially burned fuel oil. I burn K-1 as recommended. the stove was new Dec 06' and ran relatively fine until about Feb 2006 when this ordor situation showed up. the gaskets surround ing the combustion chamber appear fine. Could it be that wind is blowing the fumes back through the unit and then in to living space???? Help!!!!!!!!!!!! I've had my Laser 56 for approx 6 years. The problem was never noted until about 2 years after the stove was installed. Suddenly, my house began filling with diesel-like fumes whenever there's a strong NW wind. It never occurs without a strong wind out of the Northwest. Any ideas?

To remove these residues and ensure the appliance operates safely, follow these steps:

Make sure the range is properly installed and connected to the power source.

Remove any protective coverings or packaging materials from the range.

Turn on each coil element to its highest setting. This will help burn off any residues.

If you have a A model Laser 30 you will have to take the stove apart to get to the fuel sump pipe. 9/16 wrench will tighten it. If it's a B model you can reach it on the lower right side of the heater.

Tom

A burning rubber smell under the hood might be just that - consider having your accessory drive belt inspected, as it is possible that a bearing in one of the accessories (alternator, power steering pump, air conditioning compressor, etc.) or in the tensioner mechanism might be failing. This sort of fault will often cause that particular accessory bearing to spin less freely than the others, and as a result the belt continues to pass over the associated pulley at the same speed as the engine. Essentially, the result is similar to a car spinning its tires on dry pavement - and a similar 'burning rubber' odor is the friction and heat of the rubberized belt.

If the odor is more like burning oil than burning rubber, the rear valve cover gasket is situated in a place that results in dripping oil, even small and unnoticable amounts, onto the exhaust manifold that is directly underneath the valve cover.

These two items might be places to start your inquiry. Best of luck to you!

If you just changed gaskets on your heater it is normal for it smoke a little bit when you first restart it. It should go away after a while though. If you smell unburned fuel you have a leak somewhere, or a spill. Check all your fuel line connections in the house. The back of the heater where the line connects, the firestop valve (the valve behind the pump that opens or closes the flow of fuel), and any connections in there behind the pump/fuel resevior. (sp) Check that they are tight. What has also happened to me is fuel has spilt and ended up along the back edge of the stove. you might be able to be crafty and unscrew all the screws at the bottom, to try to clean that up. It doesn't take much of a spill to create a very pungeant diesel smell.

I have used #2 in the summer. I have been told the difference between 1 and 2 is 1 has an additive so it won't free. I would use oil meant to be used as heating oil because it should be lower in sulfer.

EE22 means that your Toyo failed to ignite 3 times in a row. You need to unplug it for 30 minutes to reset the circuit board. Then plug it back in, push the red reset button on the right hand side in the little hole towards the back and push the Power button. Your Toyo should ignite after that barring some other problem caused by running out of fuel.

I am assuming that you ran out of fuel which caused the EE2 error code originally. Sometimes, when you run out of fuel you can get water, ice, debris in the fuel line causing an obstruction or limited fuel flow. You may also get an air lock. You may need to crack the fuel line at the back of the Toyo where there is 3/4 nut and bleed the line. If you see no fuel or a small quantity of fuel then you will need to thaw and/or purge the fuel line in order to get fuel to your Toyo's fuel pump.There is also a screen in the sump which can get plugged with rust, debris from the bottom of the fuel tank so you may need to clean the screen in order to get fuel to the pump.

http://www.hannabery.com/faq14.shtml

"Odor problems can be as serious as a gas leak or as simple as a dirty air filter. But remember, a good mechanic doesn't just use his hands. He uses his ears and nose. Unusual odors could indicate a serious problem and should not be ignored. 

We will go through each of the five categories and list the possible causes and things to check.


1. Electrical odor - Electrical odors are usually caused by parts overheating. Indoor blower motors are a common example. If there is a mechanical failure such as the bearings seizing up, the motor over-heats and the insulation on the wires and the motor windings themselves start to melt, causing the odor. 
Sometimes loose electrical connections cause wires or plastic relays to overheat causing electrical odors. 

It is possible for a very dirty air filter to cause the odor. If the airflow is restricted enough, it could cause electric resistance heaters to overheat, even burn-out. 

If you smell an electrical odor, check your air filter. If it is not blocked, shut off equipment at the breaker if possible and call for service. 


2. Burning odor - This is similar to an electrical odor only worse. It is also sometimes accompanied by smoke. Once again, this can be caused by parts or wiring burning-up. 

It can also be debri such as plastic getting into the ductwork and melting on the electric resistance heaters or heat exchanger. 

If you smell a burning odor, check your air filter. If it is not blocked, shut off equipment at the breaker if possible and call for service.



3. Gas odor - First of all, if you really smell gas and suspect a gas leak, you should open the windows, get out of the house, then call the gas company. 

Now excluding that "worse-case" scenario, if you notice an odor that smells like gas and it seems to be coming out of the supply vents, it usually isn't gas. Sometimes dust that settles on the heat exchanger during the summer months burns off at the beginning of each heating season and it smell just like gas. 

If the odor doesn't seem to be coming from the vents, try to pinpoint where the smell is coming from. Use your nose. If it is gas, it usually would be from a leak in a pipe fitting or at the equipment itself. 

Gas odor is the one that causes the most fear. People think of gas explosions or carbon-monoxide poisoning. Well, gas explosions are very rare and carbon-monoxide for the most part is odorless. 

Having said that though, don't take a gas odor lightly. If you can't locate the source of the odor and you are worried you have a gas leak, remember, open the windows, get out of the house, then call the gas company. 


4. Oil odor - Oil odors are usually caused by one of two things. An oil leak/drip or an oil burner that is not working properly. 

The oil leak is usually easy to spot. Just look for oil. Check the burner itself, the oil tank, filter and oil line. Sometimes it is just a matter of tightening a fitting. If there are no signs of an oil leak then it is most likely a burner problem. 

This can be caused by many things, too many to list. It could be a minor adjustment to the burner to a faulty or blocked chimney. From a bad fuel pump to a plugged oil nozzle. Listen for any unusual rumbling or banging sounds or smoke or soot while the burner is running. If you notice any of these things and/or you have an oil odor, you should call for service immediately. 

One other common problem today is that new houses are insulated so well and are built so tight that they run out of combustion air, causing odor problems. In this case it is just a matter of bringing in a fresh air for the burner. Call your local Heating Company to assist in a proper diagnosis. 


5. Damp and musty odor - This is more common in the air conditioning mode. Sometimes attic units or very damp basements have this problem. Check for air leaks in the return ducts. Check for water damage to the ducts or air handler itself. Possibly consider having your ducts cleaned. Run a dehumidifier and see if the odor goes away. 

But this odor problem is almost never due to a problem with your equipment. 

 


Final Tips:

Keep in mind that almost all heating systems cause an odor the first time they are fired-up. And the first few times at the beginning of each heating season. Brand new furnaces are coated with oil to keep the heat exchangers from rusting. This burns off, creating a bad odor - even smoke. But it usually only lasts for about 20 minutes. Opening the windows usually solves the problem. And the first few times the backup heat on a heat pump kicks on, it smells like an electrical smell. This might last for a few days but isn't that bad. If you are worried, call for service. 

Remember to check for a clean air filter and that your vents are opened. Check to see if the fan is working which mean your motor hasn't burned-up. 

Check for air leaks in damp areas, oil stains or rumbling sounds, strong gas odors - these all indicate problems. Do not ignore them. 

Hope this helps, remember - these are just rough guidelines and not all possible situations are covered."

Hi EJAKFbanks,

I believe by your description and my 8 years experience with Toyo Stove repair that you are missing part of the firing sequence. The firing sequence for a Toyo Stove L 56 is to blink on the burner light for 7-9 minutes, then it clicks up to the medium light (amber-yellow color). The medium light blinks and that is when the fuel pump kicks on and starts to pump. If the stove ignites, the medium light will glow for a second and then drop down to the low light (green) The low light will burn for awhile and at this time you will see a blue flame in the newer heat chamber models or a red glow, and perhaps some blue flame in the older heat chamber models, then the stove will kick up to the medium light for a bit, and then to the high light. An EE6 error code will show only when the flame is extinguished after actually taking place and a burn did occur in the chamber on low. An EE6 is usually one of 2 things: 1. There is an inadequate fuel supply for the stove to maintain a low cycle burn, or the medium, or high. Each cycle consumes more fuel than the prior one. Inadequate fuel supply can be due to a restriction in the fuel line such as icing like cholesterol in a persons arteries, or a plugged sump screen, blocked fuel line or filter, too low a quantity of fuel in the tank, or a fuel line that is not all gravity feed, as in, the fuel line runs down, down, and then up a few feet to get to the Toyo. In that case, the fuel has to rely on head pressure to get to the stove. Head pressure is the atmospheric pressure pushing on the fuel in the tank to force it up against the earth's gravity forces. Solution: You can find any restriction in the line, replace the filters, clean the sump screen, put heat on the fuel line to thaw any icing blocks. 2. An EE6 can be caused by a carbon chain developing from the burner ring, flame sensor or chamber wall to any metal part in the burn chamber. A carbon chain essentially "shorts" out the ground for the unit and the Toyo will shut off on EE6. Solutions:You can bang the side of the Toyo (Old frustrated Alaskan solution) which really just jars the carbon chain loose, clean the flame sensor, clean the fuel nozzle with a straight 3 inch wire, and stick a screw driver in the igniter (red wires) hole and rattle it around real good (another old Alaskan trick). Often, those three things will get your stove running again if it is a carbon chain. The problem will likely occur again, but it will buy you some time until you can get a tune-up done. Most likely, you need a tune-up. Question: When was your last tune-up? Toyo's should be tuned up every 2 years. Tthe book says every one year, but in my experience, every two years is the best bang for the customers buck. The three year mark usually begins showing signs of metal fatigue in other parts of the burn chamber/heat exchanger system so the costs rise a little each year, unless you are a lucky Toyo owner and for some odd reason, your stove can go 3 years between cleanings without any ill effect. If you get your stove running, run it hard on High for about 2 hours to clean and burn all the carbon out. Good Luck! toyotech, North Pole, Alaska

no, because the whole combustion chamber and piping is a closed system with the exception of the intake and exhaust which is a double walled pipe. you might check the tightness of your K-1 fuel line or look for leaks under the filter compartment where the solenoid pump is located. the fuel goes into the chamber via a small copper line with a silicone gasket under the gland nut.