We tested the defrost timer and that seems to be working. the compressor is also working.... fridge and freezer still not cooling and freezing. Would this leave only the thermostat...?
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Check for frozen, iced over evaporator coil caused by defective defrost timer and/or heating element. Ice maker will not work unless freezer temp is around 10 degrees or less.
If there is no cooling at all on the fridge section but the freezer works then it is confirmed that the compressor and gas pressure is OK. Now shut off the fridge and leave it powered off while you clean and check the evaporator for frost. If frost is seen it is a good indication as the compressor is working with sufficient gas within. Now after about 6 hours plug in the fridge to start. Observe cooling to happen in about one hour and ice to from under three hours. Earlier make sure that the thermostat was set to normal mode for freezer and fridge. However if ice forms in the freezer then observe the fridge for about 24 hours for cooling to continue and the fridge to cut off . If not the auto defrost timer, or the thermostat must be checked. Frost formation without defrosting could block the air flow and so shut the air passage to the fridge. Also the blower fan must work and if this is not working then the fan can be faulty. Also a fault on the control unit is a suspect to non functioning of any one of these components. If defrost timer works but frost keeps forming check while the compressor shuts if the heaters are working, check continuity of the heaters. So try this test using a multi-meter on the defrost timer and the thermostat and make your observations so that we come to the solution.
If there is no cooling at all , before we go further we must confirm the first step of confirming the compressor and gas pressure. So shut off the fridge and leave it off while you clean and check the evaporator for frost. If frost is seen it is a good indication as the compressor is working with sufficient gas within. Now after about 6 hours plug in the fridge to start. Observe cooling to happen in about one hour and ice to from under three hours. Earlier make sure that the thermostat was set to normal mode for freezer and fridge. However if Ice forms then observe the fridge for about 24 hours for cooling to continue and the fridge to cut off . If not the auto defrost timer, or the thermostat must be checked. If defrost timer works but frost keeps forming check while the compressor shuts check if the heaters are working, check continuity of the heaters. So try this test from the outside and make your observations so that we come to the solution.
If there is no cooling at all , before we go further we must confirm the first step of confirming the compressor and gas pressure. So shut off the fridge and leave it off while you clean and check the evaporator for frost. If frost is seen it is a good indication as the compressor is working with sufficient gas within. Now after about 6 hours plug in the fridge to start. Observe cooling to happen in about one hour and ice to from under three hours. Earlier make sure that the thermostat was set to normal mode for freezer and fridge. If there is no ice formation we have a big issue as the compressor and gas must be checked out. If compressor is running check the pressure, get help to test gas pressure. If not you will need to fill up ,If gas pressure is good the possibility of the compressor being inefficient is high. In such a case you must take consensus to estimate and decide, if RPM of motor is low check capacitor. However if Ice forms then observe the fridge for about 24 hours for cooling to continue and the fridge to cut off . If not the auto defrost timer, or the thermostat must be checked. If defrost timer works but frost keeps forming check while the compressor shuts if the heaters are working, check continuity of the heaters. So try this test from the outside and make your observations so that we come to the solution.
Please check the timer the thermostat and the heater for the auto defrosting to work. Switch off the fridge and after all the frost has gone off switch on to see if the sooling returns . If so you can be sure that the timerr does not work and so reduces cooling on frosting. If there is still no cooling then you will need to check onthe compressor and the gas pressure. Get help to confirm and take an estimate before attempting, get an warranty assurance for work. Hope you try out and see first.Good day
Insufficient cooling is a fridge repair job that you can do without the help of a professional. Often the fridge has a frost-free failure, or the compressor is faulty but there are many other reasons for a fridge not cooling properly. Step 1 – Find the Problem
Your first job is to locate the source of the problem. Consider each of the following:
* Gaskets - Make sure the gaskets/seals are not torn and are sealing properly. * Evaporator fan – Make sure it is working. If it is now working you may have a problem with the fan motor. Check for power to the motor and also examine the fan switches around the door (not all fridges have these switches). * Air damper – Sometimes the air damper will not open up to allow the cold air from the freezer part to blow into the fridge section. * Condenser coils – Check to see that the condenser coils don’t have a dust build-up and that the condenser motor is working. * Compressor – Make sure your compressor is working with on and off clicking noises.
Step 2 – Frost-Free Failure
This is the most common cooling problem in fridges. Expose the evaporator coils by accessing the panel in the freezer section. The coils in the freezer section can sometimes get clogged up with frost. This can stop the evaporator fan motor from blowing cold air around, or cause the fan to hit it and stop, or become noisy. The defrost timer can be a bit tricky to find but it is usually located behind the back bottom corners of the fridge, although they can sometimes be found in the ceiling of the fresh food section, or behind the cold control cover. Step 3 – Find the Timer
When you find the timer, turn the wheel-like screw slowly with a screwdriver until the fridge shuts off. The refrigerator is now defrosting. If you find that the fridge starts now, you will need to replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer. Step 4 – Volt Test
If the heaters do not come on, use a volt meter to ohm test the defrost heater or volt test for 120 volts to the heater. You can bypass the defrost thermostat if you haven’t got power to the defrost heater to check if the defrost heater will come on. To bypass the thermostat, join the two wires together. Replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer if the heater comes on now.
If there is a ticking or squealing noise in the defrost timer, or it seems hot to touch, replace it.
Many fridges have and inline fuse on both sides of the defrost heater. You will need to replace the whole heater if one of those fuses blows. Check these fuses with a volt meter if the defrost heater doesn’t work.
A quick check if you have a cooling problem is to inspect the evaporator coils. If there is a build up of white snow on the coils, this indicates a frost free problem; if there is balled ice on part of the coils with the rest bare, this indicates a system problem, like a problem with the pumping compressor.
Insufficient cooling is a fridge repair job that you can do without the help of a professional. Often the fridge has a frost-free failure, or the compressor is faulty but there are many other reasons for a fridge not cooling properly. Step 1 – Find the Problem
Your first job is to locate the source of the problem. Consider each of the following:
* Gaskets - Make sure the gaskets/seals are not torn and are sealing properly. * Evaporator fan – Make sure it is working. If it is now working you may have a problem with the fan motor. Check for power to the motor and also examine the fan switches around the door (not all fridges have these switches). * Air damper – Sometimes the air damper will not open up to allow the cold air from the freezer part to blow into the fridge section. * Condenser coils – Check to see that the condenser coils don’t have a dust build-up and that the condenser motor is working. * Compressor – Make sure your compressor is working with on and off clicking noises.
Step 2 – Frost-Free Failure
This is the most common cooling problem in fridges. Expose the evaporator coils by accessing the panel in the freezer section. The coils in the freezer section can sometimes get clogged up with frost. This can stop the evaporator fan motor from blowing cold air around, or cause the fan to hit it and stop, or become noisy. The defrost timer can be a bit tricky to find but it is usually located behind the back bottom corners of the fridge, although they can sometimes be found in the ceiling of the fresh food section, or behind the cold control cover. Step 3 – Find the Timer
When you find the timer, turn the wheel-like screw slowly with a screwdriver until the fridge shuts off. The refrigerator is now defrosting. If you find that the fridge starts now, you will need to replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer. Step 4 – Volt Test
If the heaters do not come on, use a volt meter to ohm test the defrost heater or volt test for 120 volts to the heater. You can bypass the defrost thermostat if you haven’t got power to the defrost heater to check if the defrost heater will come on. To bypass the thermostat, join the two wires together. Replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer if the heater comes on now.
If there is a ticking or squealing noise in the defrost timer, or it seems hot to touch, replace it.
Many fridges have and inline fuse on both sides of the defrost heater. You will need to replace the whole heater if one of those fuses blows. Check these fuses with a volt meter if the defrost heater doesn’t work.
A quick check if you have a cooling problem is to inspect the evaporator coils. If there is a build up of white snow on the coils, this indicates a frost free problem; if there is balled ice on part of the coils with the rest bare, this indicates a system problem, like a problem with the pumping compressor.
Make
certain there is a three inch space outside of the refrigerator between
the walls and the back and sides and at least a one inch gap above, to
allow for air flow
Clean the condensor coils
Unplug the refrigerator, wait two hours and plug it in. If you hear it running, a problem is causing the compressor to overheat
Your refrigerator has a defrost thermostat inside the fresh food section behind the light cover and control panel. Need you to turn it clockwise slowly until the compressor stops. Leave it like that and after 30 minutes or less it does not restart you will need to replace the timer. The defrost timer is part number WR9X489 You should hear sounds from freezer with door open like sizzling or crackling. That would be the defrost working. If there is no defrost during this time. let me know so we can look into the defrost element and defrost thermostat as possible problems. Visit my site and enter the model or part number into search feature. That takes you to your model. Any questions or help from me, just let me know, Thanks, Sea Breeze SITE=> http://servicepartstec.blogspot.com/
First point: The entire fridge is cooled by the freezer section. A fan blows air across to the food section. 2) Every 8 hours or so, a timer shuts off the compressor cycle, and starts up a heater to defrost the freezer coils. If the heater(s) are burnt out, or if the safety thermostat (to prevent overheating) is open, then you will have no defrost. The coils will frost up and eventually prevent airflow to the food section. Milk goes sour. 3) In rare circumstances, the timer itself can stall. This cause the same symptoms as above, but this is not as common as the other 2 causes of No Defrost. Sequence: Check heater continuity. Check safety thermostat continuity while cold. Check defrost timer operation. Hope this helps. I am a journeyman with 39 years exp. Happy New Year.
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