Noisy produce a noise when turned on

There have been a number of cars where the manufacturer responded to complaints of silent turn signals by fitting various devices to produce more noise including a tone through the audio system.
Various aftermarket suppliers also produced such a device.

I fitted an old noisy relay to my friend's car to overcome the problem because he preferred to hear the traditional ticking sound A small loudspeaker and a suitable series resistor would perform the function but a piezo buzzer is probably the best solution, connected between the flasher unit or switch and ground.

Fit a less noisy tire. Most of the road noise is tire generated and there is a big difference in noise between tire brands and tire designs when run at the optimum tire pressures.

It is generally the case that the cheaper brands of tires will also be noisier than premium tires , especially as they incur wear. For example they may be fine for about 8- 10000 miles from new but then become progressively more noisy to the point that they become very annoying.

Do a bit of research on the net on tire brands and models within each brand (including reading tire reviews) and you will be able to select a tire that is less noisy than what you have fitted now.
Premium tire companies such as Bridgestone and Michelin for example have low noise tires in their range of products and both produce very good quality tires.

With tires, you generally pay for what you get. If you buy a cheap tire it will perform poorly compared with a premium product and will most probably be quite noisy as it begins to wear and the rubber gets harder over time.

I assume it is a hydraulic PAS system though I am not sure whether it is an engine driven pump or an electro-hydraulic system.

There is a number of reasons for noisy steering and your description isn't comprehensive enough to indicate which of the possibilities is the cause.

A fluid leak will lower the level so air might be drawn into the system and create noise. A worn pump is likely to produce more noise when under load - while turning and especially when on full lock.

Some hydraulic systems are noisy for no particular reason and for that reason various additives are produced to add to the fluid to reduce noise.

The only thing that produces any real noise in the freezer is the evaporator fan. Its possible that the fan blade has either broken or hitting something as it spins, or the mounting has broke, If you could describe the noise maybe I could give you a more accurate answer

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3

sometimes a leaking high voltage could caused this noise try to see it at a near dark room for arking

That noise is produced by the spin action of the internal 2.5 "hard drive while it is playing music, video,.. Don´t worry about that.

The ice maker has completely stopped producing ice:--Check to see whether the ice maker has been turned off. Here's how to check. Look for a wire along the right side of the ice maker that looks a bit like a coat hanger. If this wire is in the raised position, the ice maker is turned off. On some units you simply lower the wire to the down position to turn the ice maker on. On others, you lower a small red plastic lever to lower the wire. If the wire is in the proper position check the freezer temperature, it should be between 0-8 degrees Fahranheit. If it is warmer than 10-12 degrees, the ice maker may not produce any ice. Check your door seals and thermostat, repair/replace as necessary.
The ice maker is producing ice poorly :--When an ice maker is producing ice poorly--when it produces just a few cubes or none, or when the cubes are too small--it's usually because of a clogged water line or a defective water inlet valve.First, check the water line attached to the back of the refrigerator for good water flow. To do that, first turn off the water supply valve. Then remove the water line from the back of the refrigerator. Next, place the water line into a bucket and momentarily turn the water valve back on to test the flow. If the flow is poor, you need to repair, clean, or replace the tubing or the shut-off valve that supplies the water. If the flow is good, you may have to replace the water inlet valve.
Noise can come from these areas:
The inside of the freezer :--Self-defrosting refrigerators use a circulating fan to move the air through the freezer and refrigerator compartments. This fan runs whenever the unit is cooling. The fan is located in the freezer, as follows:If the freezer is on top, the fan is on the back wall, near the top or bottom, in the center of the freezer.If the freezer is on the bottom, the fan is on the back wall, near the top of the freezer.
If the freezer is on the left, the fan is on the back wall, halfway up or near the top.
Over time, the fan may become noisy--usually making a chirping or squealing sound, though it may make a loud groaning noise instead.To find out if the fan is causing the noise, just open the freezer door and push in any fan/light switches. If the noise is louder when the door is open, the evaporator fan motor is the cause. You can't lubricate or repair this motor. You must replace it.
The outside back of the refrigerator:--There are three components on the outside back of the refrigerator that may become noisy: the compressor, the condenser fan motor (if self-defrosting), or the defrost timer (if self-defrosting).The compressor is a football-sized case with no apparent moving parts. You can see it on the outside of the refrigerator at the back near the bottom. It is usually black and has black or copper-colored tubes and various colored wires attached to it. If the compressor is the device making noise, there is probably no repair that will reduce the noise. You will have to replace it--which can be quite costly.
If the condenser fan is making noise, there may be a build-up of lint or other debris on the fan blade. The fan is located near the back of the machine, sometimes behind a thin panel. To clean it, first unplug the refrigerator, remove the thin panel, and use a soft bristle brush to clean it. If there is no lint build-up or debris on the blade, you will have to replace the motor.The defrost timer is often located at the bottom of the refrigerator, near the front and behind the kick plate. Occasionally the electric motor inside the timer may become noisy. The timer must be replaced to solve this problem.
The bottom of the refrigerator:--Noises detected at the bottom of the refrigerator almost always originate from the back of the refrigerator. However, sometimes the drain pan under the refrigerator will rattle. You may need to tape the pan in place to stop a rattle. Also see the “Outside back of the refrigerator.”
This will help.thanks.

Traced the problem back to the tap. Seems the washer in the tap was faulty and producing a screaming graunching noise. Replaced the washer and all OK

GK

That noise is due to your Power-Supply-Unit, Hard-Drive, Optical Drives, other spinning devices, and ventilation fans. You can reduce some of it but not all of it.

For example, your hard-drive could be rather old and producing a lot of noise when it spins up, reads, or writes data. You could replace it with a newer hard-drive which barely makes any noise. The same with your Power Supply Unit (PSU). It could be old and rather noisy. You could buy yourself a newer one such as the ones made by PC Power & Cooling which gets you a quieter product. However that's about it as you DO NOT want to reduce the amount of fans in your system.

Sorry if this was not the solution you were after. However most noise from a computer stems from ventilation fans which can be replaced but should not be removed.

There's no rehab procedure for a wheel bearing. When it's making noise it has to be replaced.