My intertherm heat pump has freon but will not heat is it posible that the reversing valve is stuck in the middle and will not let it heat if so where can i get a new one.

not sure if this helps but is how it works...
Comfort Maker energizes the reversing valve in cool. The reversing valve coil should be wired to "O" from the thermostat. Take the wires off the the reversing valve coil, it should switch to heat. If it does not, and the compressor is running, the reversing valve is bad! Replace it.

Note: that clicking sound you hear was the pilot valve in the reversing valve. Within a couple of seconds of hearing that click, it should have reversed. IF it does not, you have a bad valve.

Electricity switches the pilot valve. The pilot valve switches the Freon pressure. Freon pressure switches the reversing valve.
hope this makes sense.
best to you.

has this tstat worked the heat pump before? possible refrigerant issues

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It sounds like a stuck reversing valve stuck in heating mode based on a hot refrigerant line.
It could be stuck in the heat position because it isn't receiving 24 volts to operate, or it could be stuck internally.
Tapping on the copper tubes on the reversing valve sometimes frees one that is stuck internally. It is copper so don't get carried away or you will destroy the reversing valve.
Did you feel the temperature of both copper lines?
If the reversing valve is stuck in heat, during the winter, your heat pump will ice up, because it isn't reversing to cool as it should when it calls for the defrost cycle to occur.
Google "heat pump reversing valve" to see what one looks like
You'll need to use a voltmeter to verify that the reversing valve is receiving twenty four volts.
Pull the two wires at the reversing valve coil and check for 24 volts.
If you don't have 24 volts there when you put the unit in cooling cycle,you either have defective thermostat wiring, or a defective thermostat.
If you have 24 volts you will need to check the electrical coil that the two wires plug into.
Set the voltmeter to ohms, and make contact with the meter leads onto the terminals of the coil. One lead goes on one terminal and one lead on the other terminal at the same time, to check for continuity. You should get an ohm reading. That means the coil is good.

If the meter indicates "0" ohms the coil is shorted and needs replacement.
If the meter doesn't read any ohms at all that means that the coil is burnt out and needs replacement

When the reversing valve is activated there will be a "whoosh" sound you can clearly hear if you are near the outdoor unit.

You can order the A/C parts you need online unless you have friend that is a HVAC tech and he could get one from the Trane supply house.

It is a big job to replace the reversing valve involving freon removal and brazing. Hopefully you will find the problem in the wiring, Thermostat, or the reversing valve coil.

You could have a problem with your controller

You could have a Wiring Issue that is not allowing the switch

You could have a Valve Issue....

WELL this could be a couple of problems the reversing valve could be stuck either from not enough pressure which would be a leal and low on freon or the unit is off on low pressure switch/high pressure switch from either being low on freon or something restricting it and caused unit to shut down, ive been a servicer for many years and if it gets below 30 degrees outside i would recommend running the e-heat anyway it does cost more money minute for minute. but you will find it will heat alot faster in those colder nights than the heat pump therefore cost is about the same.
as far as not switching over could be low on freon or a stuck reversing valve... is the outside even running in cool mode if not the you may have a tripped pressure switch...good luck

Check your reversing valve, When you set your thermostat for heat the reversing valve circulates the heated freon through the air handler instead of the cooled freon. The valve is called many things but it reverses the flow of freon See http://www.google.com/images?hl=&q=heat+pump+schematic&rlz=1B3GGGL_enUS329US330&um=1&ie=UTF-8&source=univ&ei=npcOTfLEPMO88ga4poDGBQ&sa=X&oi=image_result_group&ct=title&resnum=2&ved=0CC4QsAQwAQ&biw=1024&bih=576 and look at the different schematics

yes it can be fixed with a reversing valve replacement or you can check if the solnoid on the reversing valve when in heat mode is energized if not then replace

Some of the old heat pumps made the reversing valve in the heating mode. On your new thermostat the orange wire will need to be on the B terminal. If it was color coded? I hope you made notes of how it was.

You will need to replace the reversing valve. You cannot replace the coil with a remote sensing bulb on this unit. Usually you know when reversing valves get stuck when you are having low side problems with heat working properly

You can't replace a reversing valve (must remove ALL refrigerant first), unless you are EPA certified and have the equipment to recover the refrigerant and to braze the old valve out and the new one in. That said, it's probably an electrical problem anyway. Could be the thermostat, the thermostat settings, the wiring between the thermostat and the furnace and the condenser, or the controls in the condenser - probably not in the furnace. If you don't see anything wrong you're probably gonna need a pro.