No hot water from my vanguard 3wa71

possible bad flame sensor, thermocouple, fan draft switch..... you choose or call a plumber

Hello abcd. Vanguard appears to be manufactured by Rjheem
Rheem promotes that their products require specialized 'resistorized' elements or 'all copper' elements to portion larger brand-specific sales in their pocket and for no other reason.

1) Buy 3600 watt element. Nothing special needed:
Copy following link to identify type of element:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-water-heater-element.html

2) March 2013: Add a comment and describe the water heater and the element.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

You have to many sulfites in the water entering the tank. You will need to install a filtering system or oxygenator to help rid the sulfites and flush out your tank and water lines.

http://www.rheem.com/product.aspx?id=09DF2BDD-5E11-4D32-B574-84ACFB8A4619

If this is a new installation, make sure the unit is feed with at least 208+ volts of electricity.
If it is an older tank, try turning up the temperature setting on both thermostats. Set the top one 10 degrees higher than the bottom. If there is now change in the water temperature after a day or two, replace both thermostats. While your at it, change both element as well. A complete universal electric water heater rebuild kit should only cost around $35.

Hi,

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Electric Water Heater not Working

heatman101

,./,.

the top element is energized until the water in the top of the tank is hot enough to satisfy the upper thermostat, then the thermostat switches and sends power to the lower element. This is done to quicken the recovery time.

yes you will need to drain it to replace thermostat

Go to Grainger if you have one in your area, or visit on line at www.grainger.com

Good Luck,
JZ...

-Did you buy it directly from Grainger? The model # is actually 82SV30-2T. The "model #" you provided is Grainger's product code.

-Is this a new installation or is this an older water heater?

-Is this wired to a 25 amp breaker. (It should be.)

-Did you re-use existing wire? If so, is it at least #10 copper? (It has to be #10 or larger to comply with code) It isn't copper-clad aluminum or cotton over rubber insulated, right? (It should not be)

-Have you re-wired the heating elements? If so, you need to restore the wiring to the way it was configured from the factory.

Let me know if you need further assistance.

V/R