Motor windings burned out, need replacement motor for drill press

take the motor details from the spec plate attached to the motor and the dead capacitor to a motor rewind/ repair shop and they will be able to replace the faulty capacitor from the sample and the motor details

Most motors of that type have a capacitor that puts the stator out of phase with the rotor. They are capacitor start induction run motors. These also have a centrifugal switch inside near the end ot the shaft to put power to the start winding for a split second to determine the direction of turn and to increase horsepower until it is up to speed. So if it fails to start either the centrifugal switch needs cleaning (or replacement if damaged) or the capacitor needs replacing to give it its original power, or the start winding has failed from overheating. There may be a thermal cutout on the start winding that may need to be replaced if it did overheat. If the start winding burned then the motor would require rewinding or replacement.

You will rarely get smoke from the brushes on electric tools. Smoke is usually a result of either the armature or field coils getting hot enough to melt or burn the varnish insulation off the wire which results in a loss of or no power because of shorting in the windings. You'll have to replace whichever part burned the windings and find out what caused the problem or you'll burn the new part the same way the original burned.

hi,
There will be two reason for the fan motor won't work. first of all replace the fan capcitor. In normal Ac fans there will be two windings. The starting winding and the running winding. Running winding will be driectly connected to the power trough relay switching circuit and the starting winding trough a capacitor. If the capacitor is faulty then the fan will not sart. There will be three wires from the fan, one will be common , second will goto power line and the third will go to one end of the capacitor.The other end of the capacitor will goto the power line. In some motors there will be four line. In such motors the fourth wire will be Ground (Earth) connection.
second reson will be the winding of the motor may burned. In such cases you have to replace the fan motor.
ok

Turn the compressor pump pulley by hand (with belt off) and air pressure in the tank. It should be very easy to turn. If it is hard to turn, evaluate the check valve for leak. If no leak examine crank bearings for damage. Repair as needed. If easy to turn fault is with motor. Check amp draw with belt removed. When the motor comes on, it should draw about 15 amps and drop lower. The motor should start and reach full rpm in a split second. It should start with a bang and run smoothly with-out getting hot and only pull low amount of amps. If slow start and high amp draw, check capacitor/s and or start winding switch inside of motor. Sometimes the start switch will burn the contacts and give trouble. If both capacitors test within 95% of value and start switch appears to be good, look for damaged copper windings. Windings will be discolored or burned and the tie strings binding the windings will be melted. Replace as needed. Good holidays

There are four possibilities to look at here. Assuming your mixer has a normal capacitor start motor (older a200's used a different style motor), possibilities are, in order of likelihood:

Motor start capacitor
Start switch (electronic or mechanical)
Burned wiring
Motor start winding

The start capacitor is located at the rear of the mixer. Remove the rear cover (4 screws) and pull the cover towards you. Disconnect one wire from the capacitor and test with any multimeter.

The start switch, if electronic, is able to be tested, but not very easily. Once you've eliminated the other possibilities, it's time to replace the (electronic) start switch. If the motor has a mechanical start switch, it's easy to test: Remove the two wires at the rear of the motor and test for continuity with the motor stationary. A multimeter should show near zero ohms for a good mechanical start switch.

Burned wiring should be easy to spot with some careful inspection around the motor, capacitor, and start switch.

Start winding: Look closely at the stator (stationary part of the motor). If some of the copper windings look significantly darker in color than the others, it's likely the start windings were overheated (the start windings are the thinner copper wires - if you look closely, approximately half of the wires are thinner than the other half). Look for a wiring diagram behind the power switch and determine which wires leading to the start switch and/or capacitor are for the start windings and test for continuity across the start winding. You should read a fairly small value such as 5 - 15 ohms. Values significantly outside this range could indicate a partially open or partially shorted start winding.

The motor has either got worn brushes or more likely the windings have been attacked by moisture and gotten the dreaded "green spot" (corrosion).

Worn brushes can be replaced if the commutator is still good. But failed motor windings require a new or reconditioned electric motor.

As per your comments the motor just get hot and doesn't run. Check
the starting capacitor of your motor, or have it check. It may need a
replacement. On the other hand, check the motor winding if it is partially burned. If it is burned, have it rewinded, replace the starting capacitor, and
you have it running once again.

you possibly have a motor that the windings are bad. These windings swell when power flows through them and in turn the swelling presses onto the shaft causing the problem. Also, I would replace the capacitor first in the event it is bad If the motor runs properly then that capacitor is the only problem. If it doesn't cure the fan problem then the motor is going out. If you change the motor the capacitor will also need to be changed anyway so try changing capacitor first. Good Luck hope I helped you some


Dave