What size thread on a hbg10 arbor

16 speed should have a Morse taper
for the std drill chuck

to fit a different chuck the morse taper needs to be emery sanded
and the replacement chuck should stick
after using the wood block pressure press method

if not you need a new morse taper for that spindle chuck


hint
i had my drill accuracy and off center spin tolerance down to one thou

with stretched old belts I got more speeds than 16
for special jobs
my 16 speed used a morse taper two for the drill chuck


this picture says its a spindle chuck
morse taper

no 1 morse taper is the thin one
no2 is used for most small applications and no 3 is for bigger applications
to get more specific you will have to come back with make ,model and chuck size in use and if there is an adaptor sleeve on the chuck shaft

A standard arbor which you should have been provided with should look like this...



The standard arbor size is 1 inch.
A used arbor is okay--but if it has rust on it, you should remove the rust with a wire-wheel mounted on a bench grinder (and be sure to use eye protection because fast spinning wire-wheels routinely throw off wires).

Any arbor (especially new arbors) have to be lapped into the spindle using a fine lapping compound which can be easily found at auto parts stores.

Apply a small amount of lapping compound onto the mating surface of the arbor and insert it into the spindle with the machine turning. Hold the arbor tight and let the lapping compound grind away for about 40 seconds.

Remove the arbor and reapply another small amount of lapping compound--repeat the grinding process one more time. Remove the arbor and using a rag clean the lapping compound from the arbor.

Clean the lapping compound from the outer spindle seat. The outer seat is easily accessed--the inner seat of the spindle is harder to access. This is cleaned by doubling a rag over the threaded end of the arbor. Holding the rag, insert the threaded end into the spindle and clean the inner seat.

Turn off the machine and insert the arbor into the spindle. Insert the spindle "draw bar" (which you should also have) through the hole in the drum gear box (Infimatic gearbox) on the right hand side of the machine.

Holding the drive pulley, tighten the draw bar.

Next you have to check the arbor run-out using a magnetically mounted dial indicator as shown....



Mount the dial indicator on the machine's twin cutter (tightened down) and crank in the disc-feed carriage until the dial indicator can make contact with the arbor.

Start the machine. The arbor run-out should be no more than 1 1/2 thousandths. If the run-out exceeds greater than 8 thousandths it cannot be straightened. Arbor with slight run-out problems can be straightened.

(Note: If the dial indicator vibrates too much to get a reading--you will have to manually turn the machine using a wrench as described below).

First try loosening the draw bar, and rotating the arbor 180 degrees and then re-tightening the draw-bar. Many time this will solve the problem or at the very least lessen the run-out or bring it within spec.

If the arbor is still exceeds spec, then you have to straighten it. To straighten an arbor, manually turn the machine with the "Ammco wrench" (which you should also have) using the nut on the draw bar. Turn the machine until you find the high spot (straight up), then remove the dial indicator to prevent damage.

Using a copper dead blow hammer, give the arbor a modest whack, and then recheck the run-out. Repeat the process until you manage to get the arbor within spec.

Please note that straightening an arbor using this method will sometimes break the arbor off. You are rolling the dice when straightening an arbor--but this is the nature of the animal. Even brand new arbors sometimes need straightening.

If you need more questions answered contact us at...

http://www.brakelathe.net/

without the model number I am going to guess that as a general rule most smaller drill presses are a #2 morse taper socket and a #2 jacobs taper arbor (where the chuck presses on) you should have been supplied a knockout pin to remove the chuck assembly from the internal socket.

Common American National Standard Pipe Taper Threads

• NPT - National Pipe Thread Taper
• FPT - female (internal) National Pipe Taper threads
• MPT - male (external) National Pipe Taper threads
• NPTF - Dryseal American National Standard Taper Pipe Thread (ANSI B1.20.3)

For NPT threads a sealant compound or Teflon tape must be used for a leak-free seal. For NPTF no sealant is needed for a sealing.
Characteristics of NPT (also known as ANSI/ASME B1.20.1 Pipe Threads, General Purpose):

• tapered thread 1o 47'
• truncation of roots and crests are flat
• 60o thread angle
• pitch is measured in threads per inch

Note! Pipe sizes do not refer to any physical dimensions. The outside diameter of a pipe or fitting must be measured and compared to a table for size identification. A 3/4" NPT pipe thread has an outside diameter - OD - of 1.050 inches.
Each thread size has a defined number of threads per inch - TPI, or pitch. The 3/4" NPT pipe thread has 14 threads per inch. Both the TPI and OD of the thread are required for positive identification of thread size because more than one size have the same TPI.
NPT - American Standard Pipe Thread Taper 1) Pipe Size
(inches) Threads per Inch
TPI - pitch Approximate Length of Thread (inches) Approximate Number of Threads to be Cut Approximate Total thread Makeup, Hand and Wrench (inches) Nominal Outside Pipe Diameter
OD
(inches) Tap Drill
(inches) 1/16" 27 0.313 1/8" 27 3/8 10 1/4 0.405 R 1/4" 18 5/8 11 3/8 0.540 7/16 3/8" 18 5/8 11 3/8 0.675 37/64 1/2" 14 3/4 10 7/16 0.840 23/32 3/4" 14 3/4 10 1/2 1.050 59/64 1" 11-1/2 7/8 10 9/16 1.315 1-5/32 1-1/4" 11-1/2 1 11 9/16 1.660 1-1/2 1-1/2" 11-1/2 1 11 9/16 1.900 1-47/64 2" 11-1/2 1 11 5/8 2.375 2-7/32 2-1/2" 8 1 1/2 12 7/8 2.875 2-5/8 3" 8 1 1/2 12 1 3.500 3-1/4 3-1/2" 8 1 5/8 13 1 1/16 4.000 3-3/4 4" 8 1 5/8 13 1 1/16 4.500 4-1/4 4 1/2" 8 5.000 4-3/4 5" 8 1 3/4 14 1 3/16 5.563 5-9/32 6" 8 1 3/4 14 1 3/16 6.625 6-11/32 8" 8 1 7/8 15 1 5/16 8.625 10" 8 2 16 1 1/2 10.750 12" 8 2 1/8 17 1 5/8 12.750 14" 8 14.000 16" 8 16.000 1) The taper is 1/16 inch in an inch, which is the same as 3/4 inch in a foot (angle 1o 47')
NPT threads are not interchangeable with NPS - National Pipe Straight - threads.
NPT threads may look similar to ISO 7/1 threads. However, ISO and NPT threads should not be mixed. ISO threads have 55o taper angle versus 60o for NPT. The NPT root and crest configurations are also different from ISO. For ISO threads pitch is usually measured in millimeters (may be expressed in Inch). The pitch are different.

if it has a slot in the spindle, there was a wedge that came with it, put the wedge into the slot and strike it with a hammer. depending on the taper fit you would need something like a ball joint seperator to knock the arbor from the chuck body. that is the best I can do without knowing the model and brand of the tool

I think I know what you are asking, but you haven't given me much to go on. Here are the names of the parts going from pedal to pedal -- pedal, crank arm, bottom bracket arbor, crank arm, pedal. Are you asking about attaching the crank arm to the bottom bracket arbor? And if so, are you missing the tapered pin that older bikes used to make this attachment? If so, the crank arm has 3 holes in it - one for the pedal, one for the bottom bracket arbor, one for the tapered pin. And your bottom bracket arbor will not have a square end, but will have a round end with a flat spot about 3/8 inches square. If you are missing this pin, then take the bike to a bike shop. It's a very inexpensive part, but might be hard to find the right size- or might require a little modification to fit. good luck Al K

If the spindle has a slot in it above the chuck and you can see the top of the chuck arbor in that slot then you need to get a wedged piece of steel commonly called a drift , insert in the slot so it bears on the top of the arbor and the top of the slot and hit it with a hammer. This will knock the tapered arbor loose from the spindle and it should fall out. Hope this helps you.

you dont hold it, the chuck is a taper fit and you would need wedges to remove it. the newer chuck would also have to have the same taper to work. if replacing the new chuck you would need to make sure the parts are clean, use a brake cleaner and a paper towel to clean them and then they would press together. Let me know if you still need more assistance.

There is a long tapered hole in the spindle of the press known as a Morse taper. It holds a 6 or 8 inch morse taper arbor which is attached to the drill chuck. This is made to be removed frequently by putting a wedge shaped key into a horizontal hole in the drill press and giving it a little tap. This is for making tool change that involve removing the chuck. If you had two such tools (say two different style chucks) they would each have their own dedicated morse taper arbor. But there is also a short tapered cyclinder on the chuck end of the morse taper arbor, with a matching hole in the back of th chuck. This is not intended to come apart frequently, but it can be disassembled. I'm not sure which one is coming apart, but regardless of which one it is, you might try this fix. Clean up any bumps at all on the oustide of the taper and inside the hole with sandpaper 200 - 300 grit. Use a dowel to hold the sandpaper in the hole, and use the motor to spin it. --- JUST BE CAREFUL that if it grabs that it doesn't grab you! Once it's all cleaned up, you can you the press aspect of the drill press to seat it in place. You also might have to replace the arbor. They don't cost all that much and are available from Grizzly.com. You specify the particular taper for BOTH ends of the arbor. The long end is a Morse 2,3 or 4, and the short end is specific to the drill chuck manufacturer, like JT-2 (Jacobs chuck taper 2). Write back if you need more help.