Tv not reading devices

SOURCE: Device menu continously selecting input devices

Did you try resetting using the RESET button on the front of the TV? Also what "input" card are you pulling?

SOURCE: HDMI connection problem

On your TV set remote are you selecting the proper input; for example when you have different devices connected to the back of your tv set, dvd player, vcr, cable box etc; you have to tell the tv which device you want to use by selecting the right one on your tv remove input selection. Hope this was any help.

SOURCE: Flickering blue picture

I finally got around to dismantling the TV. This is no mean task. The chassis is tethered to the rest of the set my over a dozen wiring harnesses and a few of these cannot be disconnected near the chassis but instead require removing the “right support” near the air duct and taking the shield off the lamp ballast. Once the chassis assembly is out, it is a further significant task to disassemble it to get at the various PWBs (POWER, FMT and DM) having the suspect caps. I’m sure reassembling everything will be a fun job!

I have not yet had a chance to fix and reassemble but I wanted to post this no as I’m not sure when I will get around to it.

I did find six of the fourteen known-problem caps to be visibly bulging -- both 3300s and two of the four 1000s on the PWR PWB plus two of the four 1000s on the FMT PWB (see photos below). Ironically of the four 1000s on the DM PWB, which I have heard are the most common to go bad, were bulging and I considered skipping these as the DM it is the toughest board to extricate from the chassis, however I figured I had come this far and I would just as soon replace all twelve 1000 uFs as the parts cost $0.23 and I really never want to have to do this again.

If I had to bet, the two 10V 3300uF caps on POWER board, which were actually leaking black goo, are the actual culprits, but with four of the 1000 uFs also bulging it is probable only a matter of time until they failed as well.

Here is the POWER PWB with the known-problem caps (C9A37, C9A38, C9A51, C9A52, C9A61 and C9A62) highlighted:

here's the FMT PWB with the known-problem caps (C8F19, C8F21, C8F22 and C8F27) highlighted:


and the DM PWB with the known-problem caps (C81A2, C81A3, C81B3 and C81B4) highlighted:

Here are close-ups of the bulging caps (C9A37, C9A38, C9A52 and C9A62) on the POWER PWB:



And here are close-ups of the bulging caps (C8F19 and C8F27) on the FMT PWB:

SOURCE: WD-52628 Mitsubishi - change inputs

We had the same problem. Luckily, we had a service contract, so it was serviced yesterday. The fix involved the service guy going through a "service menu" and resetting the TV that way. He was not "allowed" to tell me how I can access the service menu, however. I do plan to research this on the internet in case it happens in the future. It is basically a software/computer problem, and unplugging the TV isn't enough to clear it unless the TV is unplugged for "a long time." The technician said the length of time depends on the condition of your capacitors. Anyway, as a temporary fix, he showed me that you can go into the PIP mode. The device toggle for PIP apparently did still work with mine, so I was able to switch the device on the secondary picture and then switch it to primary, then toggle the PIP off. Good luck!

Sonny Berry

• 8617 Answers
• Posted on Jun 15, 2008

SOURCE: TV screen goes blank but power stays on

Sounds like the CRTs are going into protective blanking due to the vertical output ic needing to be resolderd. Try resoldering the vertical IC that may possibly fix the issue.