Every other time I power it down by holding down the power button for a few seconds, itll power down and right back up before I can even let go of the button in time.Ive literally had to unplug it in order to get it to shut off at times.
I found the micro switch power button was broke on a lap top and also on a home computer in another sitution. I replaced the switch and all worked well again. On the lap top the internal spring in the switch was broke and in the home computer the switch would stick. This might seem as too easy of a fix in your case, but I would sure look at this possibility first. If it's not the power switch, all the past suggestion are in order. Good luck
And present suggestion? "If it's not the power switch, all the past suggestion are in order."
So we are to assume it was a bad Power On switch, Mark?
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Power unplugged to computer, FOLLOW Anti-Static Precautions; open the computer case.
The plastic front of your computer is the Front Panel.
Disconnect the USB cables going from the motherboard, TO the Front Panel USB ports.
Card Reader up front? Unplug the USB cables from motherboard, for it too.
Also disconnect the Firewire port/s in Front Panel. (1394a)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-HP-Compaq-MOTHERBOARD-AMD-Athlon-CPU-Socket-939-MS-7093-Albacore-GL6E-/220895672707?pt=Motherboards&hash=item336e687983
Motherboard is shown just like it is mounted in your computer case.
At the bottom are the headers the above stated cables plug into.
The Red rectangle with two rows of contact pins, sitting to the Left of the two White USB headers; is the Firewire (1394a) header.
This is where the Front Panel Firewire port/s plug into.
(That Firewire header will support TWO Firewire ports)
Unplug that connector, or cables.
The white USB header to the immediate right of it, is JUSB1.
Junction USB 1 header.
Supports TWO USB ports in the Front Panel. (Can be used for a rear USB port also)
The white USB header to the right of JUSB1 is JUSB2.
If there are two USB ports in the Front Panel, there will be two cables going to one of those USB headers.
If there is a Card Reader in the Front Panel, there will be two cables coming from it; and going to the other USB header.
Unplug all.
Reconnect power to computer, keep hands out of computer.
(No. Not worried about you getting shocked. The voltages are 3.3 Volts, 5 Volts, and 12 Volts. All are DC Voltage.
In comparison two D cell flashlight batteries store 3 Volts DC.
Worried about the hardware components getting fried, inside )
What is the result?
Post back in a Comment.
Regards,
joecoolvette
[Motherboard Manual;
http://www.msi.com/product/mb/RS480M2.html
Hover your mouse cursor on the Download tab.
(Overview / Specifications / Download / Support / etc)
In the drop down list click on - Manual
Scroll down a little. Click on the blue - E7093v1.6.zip
under the subheading Download.
Click on the country name nearest yours.
A small window will come up -
Opening E7093v1.6.zip
Make SURE there is a Green dot in the small circle, to the left of Save File.
IF not; left-click in the small empty circle to the left of Save File.
Now go below in the small window, and click on OK.
A small download window will come up.
Allow the file to download all the way, then DOUBLE-click right on the file name.
In the next small window go to the left, and under the Folder Tasks heading, click on - Extract all files
At the bottom of the next 3 small windows, click on -
Next, Next, and Finish.
In the last small window, DOUBLE- click on the file name E7093v.16 next to the Red PDF icon ]
SOURCE: Dell 5150c shuts down orange flashing light
It was a faulty or worn out power supply fan. I just replaced it and the computer has been running for about an hour and a half and still no shut down. The system temperature is stable. It runs quieter now. New fan cost 13.88CAD.
SOURCE: Dell 5150c shuts down orange flashing light
As a temporary measure, taking the side panel off the dell 5150c stopped it from shutting down, so in my case it was clearly a heat problem, as suggested by previous the poster. The following instructions assume you're comfortable replacing computer hardware components - do at your own risk!
The solution is to buy an 'air duster' and some thermal compound for the CPU heat sink. If your CPU fan doesn't sound healthy (mine didn't), also buy a new one (ca. £20 on ebay: search for G9474 ).
Read the service manual: http://support.dell.com/support/edocs/systems/dim5150C/en/sm/index.htm for details on how to install / remove the fan and heat sink.
Clean out dust from the heat sink with air duster. Remove the fan, and clean or replace (recommended). Also clean the grill in front of the fan. Clean off old thermal compound from the CPU / heat sink and replace with a thin layer of fresh compound. Replace heat sink and side panel and you're done.
SOURCE: My Dell Dimension desktop 9150 was running very
Hi,
the constant Green, states that the motherboard is getting Power.
The red/yellow would possibly suggest, that the ethernet port has a fault or possible corruption.
Solution:- remove the Power Lead from the Computer Case.
Remove side panel. take out any ethernet-Cable from the rear.
Locate the CMOS battery, round silver Battery on The motherboard.
For 10 seconds, this should reset The bios, to it,s original Default Settings. Replace Battery, side Panel. And power Lead.
You could also try This. Boot with Hard-drive power Cable Disconnected ( this will Eliminate HD Fault ) same for CD/DVD drive et,c.
Mike @ Compurepair.
SOURCE: My e-Machine W3115 automatically shuts down multiple times
1) Computer off, and unplugged from power. (Unplug from the surge protector FIRST, then unplug the power cable out of the power supply)
2) Work on a table where you have plenty of room.
Open the computer case.
(Rear of computer, there is a thumbscrew midway up on the right side, or two thumbscrews. Loosen it/them all the way. {Turn to the left)
Pull the side cover towards the back of the computer about an inch, then it tilts out at the top. Remove the cover, lay it aside.
NOTE*
BEFORE you reach inside your computer you need to relieve your body of Static electricity.
Static will fry out, (Short circuit), the delicate computer hardware components inside your computer.
All you have to do is Touch the metal frame of the computer case.
Power unplugged from the computer, you are safe.
TOUCH the metal frame of the open computer case, your computer is safe. (Not shouting)
3) It looks as though the motherboard may not have to be removed, in this instance, to view the Electrolytic Capacitors I have in mind.
Not trying to insult your intelligence in any way. I may explain in some pretty simple terms.
Looking at a side view of your computer with the side cover removed from the case, rear of the computer to the left, view the Black processor fan.
The specific capacitors I would like you to scrutinize closely are the tall ones to the left of the Processor fan. (Heatsink is under the fan, and sits on the Processor, which is hidden from view)
There are 7 in a row going vertically.
What you are looking for.
(Edit: My apologizes. I meant to include a link for, Visual Signs of Capacitor Failure with my previous Clarification post. I see that I failed to do so.
Will not fail this time)
Construction of Electrolytic Capacitors:
Electrolytic Capacitors are constructed with three layers rolled up tightly, and inserted into a thin, small aluminum 'Can'.
Each layer is a thin strip.
1) Thin strip of metal which is a Conducting strip.
2) Thin strip of metal with a non-conductive medium applied to it, which is a Non-conducting strip.
3) Thin strip of paper which is soaked with an Electrolytic paste.
The thin strip of paper is laid in-between the two metal strips, and the entire affair is rolled up tightly.
The Conducting strip, and the Non-conducting strip have metal terminals attached to them.
These terminals protrude out of the bottom of the 'Can'.
The Can is open on the bottom, and has a seal.
The seal is composed of a rubber like material, and is a flat, round, shaped disk.
The terminals protrude through this seal.
The top of the Can is flat, and has a slot shape etched partially into it.
The slot shape is generally a lK or an X.
[The particular style of construction stated above for Electrolytic Capacitors, is used for computer motherboards, and power supply's. They are used elsewhere in the electronics industry, but our scope will only deal with computer motherboards, at this time)
When the Electrolytic paste breaks down, it develops a gas. Hydrogen gas. This gas expands, and pushes against the seal at the bottom of the capacitor, and the etching at the top.
When too much pressure is developed, the paste is pushed out, in a slow ooze.
The seal at the bottom of the capacitor can be compromised, as well as the etching at the top will split open.
When the seal is compromised, one edge of it is usually pushed down, and out. This has a tendency to make the capacitor lean to the opposite side. Also you may view paste oozing out.
The paste is usually a brown, to brownish yellow in color.
When the etching at the top splits open, the paste also oozes out.
Before this state is reached, the top of the capacitor may simply just bulge up, as well as the sides.
This is Visual Signs of Capacitor Failure,
http://www.capacitorlab.com/visible-failures/index.htm
The motherboard is made by FIC. (Federal International Computer)
Model K8MC51G
http://www.fic.com.tw/product/motherboard/AMD/K8MC51G.aspx
Gives you a better view of those Cap's without any hardware in place.
The capacitors should be above 1100mfd. (Microfarad)
Probably around 1600mfd.
Voltage? 16 volts.
As you can see I don't know for sure.
Electrolytic Capacitors can also have the Electrolytic paste dry up inside. There is no obvious signs of visual failure for this.
Check them out with a digital multimeter? They have to be removed to obtain a true reading.
Replace them?
Sure it's possible. Do you have good soldering/de-soldering skills? Proper equipment?
Parts availability? They are out there.
Not advertising for Radio Shack, but you may want to check with them, for one.
Would the best logical move, be to replace the motherboard due to possible Processor failure?
Not IMHO.
The Electrolytic Capacitors that surround the Processor are Voltage Regulators.
If they start going bad, or fail, the Processor won't receive the DC voltage it needs, and BIOS will turn the processor off.
A Processor must receive a steady, 'Clean', supply of DC voltage. It has to be within a very tight tolerance range.
The Processor should be good.
If the computer has been dirty inside, (As well as the Power Supply), then this means the Processor fan, and Heatsink has also.
If a Processor becomes too hot, (Goes past it's thermal limit), BIOS turns it off.
This is a Fail safe feature that is built-in.
If this happens too many times will it hurt the Processor?
I can't actually answer that.
It is a logical assumption that it would.
To come back to your statement, to me IMHO, the logical move would be to use that motherboard for a Frisbee.
(LOOK OUT!
Whoa, did you see the air I got with that mobo?)
Aftermarket AMD motherboard/Processor combos are Cheap! (Price wise, not quality)
Should explain a little. The AMD Sempron has been affectionately termed 'Sempy'.
Your eMachines W3115 Desktop PC has an AMD Sempron 3100+. Operates at a 1.8GHz maximum frequency rate, and has an 800MegaHertz Front Side Bus. {800MHz FSB}
This part isn't so bad.
The 512KiloByte cache - IS! {512KB}
Much better motherboards, and processors out there available as a combo.
It's a Micro-ATX form factor motherboard. Has a Socket 754 processor socket.
(A Micro-ATX motherboard is 9.6 inches by 9.6 inches in size.
Roughly 9 - 9/16ths inches by 9 - 9/16ths inches, or
244mm by 244mm)
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=5567180&CatId=2417
Just an example, not an advertisement for said website.
You will need different ram memory, however.
As for doing a diskcheck, I'll let the person who brought it up give the full solution to that.
SOURCE: when pluged into outlet fans spins and doesnt stop, wont boot
Fan spinning hard is usually a CPU issue.
If you've made any hardware changes to your computer, undo them.
This happened to me when I was trying to upgrade my Processor (CPU) and I had the wrong kind.
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