Bad Clutch?? 455 rancher 20" bar) I have owned it for two years and cut tons of fire wood with it. I recently replaced the oil pump. Yesterday I'm cutting oak like butter. Chain saw is cutting fine.. For no apparent reason it starts struggling to cut. I figure I hit something with the chain. I go to sharpen and notice that the clutch it's red hot. I take it apart clean it up sharpen it up put it back together fire it up and start to cut. It starts to cut on angle and has no power?? runs fine revving it but will not cut?? What do you think?

is the tin plate on the right way?(not blocking the hole)did you change the bar and the replacement blocking the oiling hole

Check oil pump, oil pump drive gear located behind the clutch and sprocket, check the rubber oil guide tube isnt blocked.

There are two hoses, the delivery hose and the pick up hose, to remove the delivery hose, start by removing the chain brake ( make sure is de activated before removing by pulling the hand guard fully back to the top handle ) now remove the clutch, there are two cut a ways in the clutch centre so as to insert a flat screw driver, now strike the end of the screw driver with a suitable hammer to jar the clutch off against the compression of the saw ( the clutch is just spun onto the crank with a left hand thread ) once off remove the sprocket and bearing, now remove the screw securing the silver protection plate over the bar pad and remove it, you can now just lift away the delivery hose, to replace the pick up you will have to remove the screw securing the oil pump and remove it, the pick up hose has a moulded grommet in the centre so you will have to diss lodge it to pry the hose from the oil tank, check out the web for sellers of these components, the part no.s are below.

The 455 has a 3 position adjustable oil pump, the adjuster screw is up under the crankcase, sprocket side, you need a flat blade screw driver.

Ok, start by removing the side cover/chainbrake,the guide bar and chain, there should be just two 13mm nuts holding the side cover on, if you have tooless adjustment there will be a single flip up lever to remove the securing nut, you now need to remove the clutch, there are two slots cut into either side of the clutch centre, these slots are designed to take a screw driver ( preferably the combi tool that came with the saw ) you can then jar the clutch off against compression by striking the end of the screw driver with a suitable hammer, the clutch is just threaded onto the crank, left hand thread, so comes off clockwise, once removed you can pull the clutch drum and bearing off, remove the single 4mm allen screw from the silver bar protection plate and remove the plate, you will now see the oil pump, held with one allen headed screw, the delivery hose will just lift off, the pick up hose and filter will come out of the oil tank once the pump is removed.

Available power and the amount of oil may both be a limiting factors. Your oiler has a 3 position adjustment (as do most intermediate level Huskies) with 20" being the longest recommended. My 359 is virtually the same and I run a 24" Carlton bar on mine with no problem. If you opt for a longer bar let the saw determine cutting speed. Come on over, my bar and chain will fit your saw, try it before you buy it. If you have an acquaintance with a 24" small mount Husky bar that is probably a good idea. I would likely not recommend a 24" bar if regularly cutting Oak or a hard wood, I do a lot of Fir.

If you have more questions or need additional help please reply below and I will get back to you. HTH & Good Luck.
Lou
Thank You for using FixYa.

An “OM, 455e Rancher, 455 Rancher, 460 Rancher, 2009-09, EN, FR, ES” Follows (may not be your saw):
http://weborder.husqvarna.com/order_static/doc/HOUS/HOUS2009/HOUS2009_1151382-49.pdf
An excerpt from page 38 of the above OM follows (forcing it may render it inoperative):
Adjustment of the oil pump
Adjustments are made by turning the screw using a screwdriver or combination spanner.
The machine is supplied from the factory with the screw set to position 2.
Turning the screw clockwise will reduce the oil flow and turning the screw anti-clockwise will increase the oil flow.
Recommended settings:
• Bar 13"-15": Position 1 (full CW)
• Bar 15"-18": Position 2 (center)
• Bar 18"-20": Position (full CCW)
These recommendations apply to Husqvarna’s chain oil, for other chain oils increase the oil flow by one step.
WARNING! The engine must be stopped when making adjustments.

All OMs and IPLs can be found here:
HusqvarnaUSA.com
http://www.husqvarna.com/us/homeowner/support/download-manuals/
Enter the 3 digit model number (no XPs, Es, just the numbers)
Serial number decode – useful when downloading IPLs and Manuals
06 1500198
06 = year produced – 2006 (single digit before 2000; please contact Husqvarna for single digit clarification http://www.husqvarna.com/us/homeowner/support/customer-support/)
15 = week produced – March
00198 = 198th unit Husky produced that week

If you have more questions or need additional help please reply below and I will get back to you. HTH & Good Luck.
Lou
Thank You for using FixYa.

An IPL with oiler components and part numbers can be here:
HusqvarnaUSA.com
http://www.husqvarna.com/us/homeowner/support/download-manuals/
Enter the 3 digit model number (no XPs, Es, just the numbers)
Serial number decode – for use with IPL
06 1500198
06 = year produced – 2006 (single digit before 2000)
15 = week produced - March
00198 = 198th unit Husky produced that week

Our job is to provide the knowledge and illustrations available to help you determine which oiler component has likely failed. Your job is to apply that knowledge and make the final determination. If you aren’t comfortable doing that then your only option short of saw disposal is your friendly local chainsaw seller/mechanic. You might be pleasantly surprised at how reasonable they are.

Oil System Plugged.

1. Remove the clutch cover, bar, and chain, clean the bar groove, any holes and passages on the rear of the bar (both sides, consider rotating the bar) Clean the saw’s oiler hole and channel. Start the saw and see if it oils when revved up. If yes reassemble your saw.
2. If no, continue with 2.Insert a blunted, hooked piece of wire through the oil filler hole and pull the hose in the oil tank out (clean or replace, difficult to determine serviceability). Work your way through the linkage cleaning and replacing any defective parts as you go. Carefully check the hoses for cracks especially at bends and connections. If equipped with an oil pump it is usually behind the clutch (clutch is probably left handed thread). Please make extensive notes & some digital pictures will help during reassembly. GL

Lou

Also make sure that where the oil is pumped against the side of the bar that the oil port (little hole) that feeds oil into the bar's slot is clear. Mine would go through a tank of oil with each tank of gas, but the chain wasn't getting oiled until I cleaned out this little hole.

The chain oil pump must be worn. The pump is fitted behiend the clutch and chain drive.Remove this by turning clockwise.