I may state too detailed, and over simplify in my solution.
This is not to insult your intelligence, but an endeavor to explain thoroughly.
To bypass the Power On switch, one uses a jumper wire to jump the Soft Power On wire, to ANY Ground wire.
The Soft Power On wire has Green insulation, and is located in the 24-pin ATX main power cable.
ANY wire that has Black insulation is a Ground wire.
To explain:
This is HP Support, and the Motherboard Specifications page, for the Compaq Presario SR1610NX desktop computer,
http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=c00378480&tmp_task=prodinfoCategory&lc=en&dlc=en&cc=us&lang=en&product=1127350I would like you to scroll down the page, until you come to the motherboard illustration.
(Under the - Motherboard layout and photos - heading)
This illustration represents the motherboard from a top view, and with no hardware components installed.
(No Processor, Ram Memory modules, power cables from Power Supply plugged in, and so on)
At the top right of the motherboard is a small rectangle, with an inscription in it.
(The tiny printing reads - SMSC with LPC47M997NR under it)
Immediately below this small rectangle, is the 24-pin ATX main power cable connector.
Two vertical rows of 12 socket holes.
(Next to it is printed - ATX 1)
Now here is a much better view of a 24-pin ATX main power cable, and the corresponding connector on the motherboard,
http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atxmain24The photo to the far left, shows a better view of the 24-pin ATX main power cable connector, on the motherboard.
(Yours may be an opaque whitish plastic. It also will not be located on the outside edge of the motherboard)
The photo in the middle, shows the 24-pin ATX main power cable not plugged in.
The photo all the way to the right, shows the 24-pin ATX main power cable plugged in, and shows the Green Soft Power On wire.
Also shows the Black ground wires.
The 24-pin ATX main power cable is left plugged into the motherboard.
Looking at the middle photo once more, note how the power wires come into the connector.
This is the Back of the connector.
Each wire ends in a metal terminal.
The metal terminal is approximately 1/2 inch in length.
This means the power wire goes down in the connector pretty deep, before it ends in the metal terminal at the Front of the connector.
I use a wire that is approximately the same size, (Gauge), as the power wires, for the jumper wire.
Strip around 1/2 inch of insulation, from each end of the jumper wire, then twist the wire ends.
The jumper wire should be around 3 inches in length, and bent into a U-shape.
Power supply unplugged from power, insert one end of the jumper wire into the socket hole that contains the Green wire.
(Soft Power On wire)
The jumper wire end is stuffed down into the socket hole with the Green wire, right next to the Green wire. You are pushing the bare stripped end past the insulation of the Green wire, with the intent of touching the metal terminal end.
Insure that the stripped bare wire, is touching the metal terminal end, as best as you can.
The stripped end may have to be longer than 1/2 inch.
(An alternate form of jumper wire is a paper clip straightened out, then bent into a U-shape, with wraps of tape in the middle for insulation. I have used this method also. I just don't recommend it for solutions)
Power supply plugged back into power:
With the one end stuffed down into the socket hole for the Green wire, hold the jumper wire by the insulation, and touch the other end down into ANY socket hole that has a Black wire. (Ground)
Warning!
There may be a spark. You may wish to wear a glove on the hand for the jumper wire.
The voltage is 5 Volts (DC)
Two common flashlight batteries are 3 Volts. (DC. Each battery produces 1.5 Volts)
To me it isn't a big deal if there is a little spark. Wanted to advise you beforehand, so that you would be aware, though.
The Power On button that you push is made of plastic. Located inside it is the Power On switch.
With finesse the Power On switch can be removed, and a new one inserted.
(I use a hair dyer on low heat setting, and move the hair dryer back, and forth to gently soften the plastic, so that tabs can be eased to one side, and the Power on switch removed.
The Power On button/switch assembly can also be lowered, {Removed from computer}, into a bowl of very, very warm water, to soften the plastic Power On button. The switch will be removed, and thrown away. The plastic Power On button is then dried, and readied for the new Power on switch)
(Barring the worst case scenario, if a correct Power On switch cannot be obtained, a Power On switch can be used by itself, and would just hang outside of the computer. Not very aesthetically appealing, or professional, but the computer will work again)
I have found that this generic Power On switch, seems to be a correct substitute for most computers,
http://www.directron.com/atxswitch.htmlEbay may have one in Computers and Networking>Computer Components.
Older computers, used a different method to turn the Power Supply on.
(PSU - Power Supply Unit)
The Power On button pushed against a long metal rod, which in turn pushed against a Power On switch, located in the Power Supply.
The Power Supply in your computer always has a constant 5 Volt standby power, when the Power Supply is plugged into power.
When the Power On button is pushed, it pushes against the Power On switch.
Inside the switch is a convex shaped thin disk of metal.
The 'plunger' of the switch, pushes against the middle of the convex metal disk.
The outside edges of the disk are connected to Ground.
When the convex disk flattens, the middle touches a Positive connection.
This contact is Momentary.
The Power On switch is a Momentary Contact Switch.
When you let go of the Power On button, the disk resumes it's convex shape, and the brief connection is broken.
The Power On switch wires connect to pins on the motherboard.
The area the pins are in, is the Front Panel header.
(A connector on a motherboard is referred to as a Header. The plastic piece on the front of a computer is a Front Panel. Sometimes referred to as a Front Bezel)
To remove the Front Panel to your computer, far enough to easily access removing the Power On switch, the Power On switch wires will have to be disconnected from the Front Panel header, on the motherboard.
So will all the wires leading from the Front Panel, to the Front Panel header on the motherboard.
Looking back at the motherboard illustration, the Front Panel header is located on the very bottom right of the motherboard.
JFP1
(Junction Front Panel 1)
You will note that there are two rows of pins.
Four across the top row, five across the bottom row.
BEFORE (Not shouting) you attempt to remove the Front Panel, it would behoove you to make a drawing, and notes as to where those wires go.
If wires come loose, I don't have a way at present to tell you where they go.
It has been a while since I have worked on this series of Compaq Presario's. The wires from the Front Panel may just end in a single connector, that you simply line up with the corresponding pins on the motherboard, and plug the connector in. (On?)
The connector is oriented, by the pin in the Front Panel header that is missing.
Four pins across the top, with one missing.
Five pins across the bottom.
The connector will also have one hole blocked off, to match the pin layout of the Front Panel header.
The other wires from the Front Panel though, may not end in a single connector.
These headers are for the audio connections on the Front Panel, USB ports, and so on.
I'll await your diagnoses to see if a new Power On switch is required, or a new Power Supply.
If it is a new Power Supply that is required, I will give recommendations, and why, if you wish.
Should you have any questions, I will try to reply as speedily as possible.
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